You can smell the char kuey teow stall before you see it. And you can see the smoke as soon as you smell it—a smoldering, sultry cloud wafting down Kimberley Street, a prime street food strip in Georgetown, on the Malaysian island of Penang.
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I don't think I'd ever been to an eatery famous for its toast, but that's why locals and visitors crowd Toh Soon Cafe, a Chinese coffee shop (or kopitiam) occupying the better part of an alley off Campbell Street in the city of Georgetown.