Lock the doors and bar the windows—the new Noilly Prat dry vermouth is coming, and, according to Eric Felten in the Wall Street Journal, your martini will never be the same again, and that's terrible news. Or maybe not. While Felten praises the aperitif qualities of the new style of vermouth—which isn’t new at all, but rather the European blend of the wine that has been sold pretty much everywhere except the United States for decades—he dismisses the vermouth’s qualities as a mixer in cocktails such as the dry martini, going so far as to call a martini made with the European vermouth “a mess”. Which is strong language, considering Noilly Prat’s history with vermouth. The dry, or French style,...
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