Some regular Slice-reading New Yorkers might be wondering why a national pizza blog with a strong New York bent has been completely mum on the pies at Nicoletta, the new pizza venture from über-Chef Michael White who happens to one of the greatest (not to mention one of our favorite) Italian chefs in the city. And you'd be right to wonder. Other than a brief First Look, we've been silent on the subject. Honestly, it was the initial negative press culiminating in Pete Wells' zero-star review in the New York Times that made us give pause and consider the matter. I mean, what is Michael White doing serving heavy, midwestern pizza with a sauce made with dried herbs and low moisture Wisconsin mozzarella? Here's the real story.
'New York Times' on Serious Eats
With Michael White behind Nicoletta, it was one of the most anticipated openings of the year. And we may be biased here at Slice, but all the more anticipated because it was pizza! There's nothing like a scathing New York Times review, however, to extinguish the excitement surrounding a new restaurant.
Bittman's column in today's New York Times today makes a good case for making pizza at home, but it's made at the expense of the reputation of New York pizza. But does the recipe he provides in the Times even produce results that are better than the most average of take-out slices?
It's a big pizza day in the New York Times' Dining Section. As part of "The Pizza Issue," best-selling cookbook author and Times columnist, Mark Bittman, will be conducting an hour long chat over on the NYTimes Facebook page from 3pm to 4pm (EST).
Wow. A resounding recommendation from the New York Times for Polpettina, a small pizzeria just north of NYC in Eastchester, New York.
This just in, thanks to Twitter: New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton is leaving his position, after less than two years. He'll move on to become the paper's national editor, but what we're wondering, of course: who's next? Leave hopes and speculations in the comments...
Melissa Clark of the New York Times Dining Section offers a respectable basics guide to making pizza at home. That's not to say there aren't some debatable points. (At the risk of sounding snobby, I can't advocate pre-shredded mozzarella. And, garlic a must? Debatable. I don't want to talk about the kitchen shears.) But this video is full of practical at-home modifications for the occasional pizza maker, like using the back of a baking sheet as a peel (my go-to method), not using a rolling pin, using moderation with toppings, and getting the oven properly pre-heated. Certainly better tips than these. Ultimately, it's great to see guides that encourage more home cooks to make pizza.
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Ok, so I'm gonna pull an Adam and pull out the Truth Hammer for this one. Pardon me as I sputter indignantly in public for a moment. Was anyone else flabbergasted at the appalling lack of reporting, knowledge, and taste displayed in New York Times writer Jordan Michelman's recent article about bánh mì modestly titled "Banh Mi In America"? Reading through it the other night, I was so shocked at the level of ignorance and the misinformation displayed that I was compelled to shoot off an email to Chichi, Robyn, and Tam just to vent. Never mind that his choices for best bánh mì in the country are... puzzling (you don't have to take my word for it: OC...