"It's like a yeasted fruitcake with all of the good stuff and none of the bad," says baker Zachary Golper of his best-in-class stollen. It's a dense, buttery loaf perfumed with citrus zest, orange blossom, and rum. The crumb is stuffed with a delicate almond cream, and the whole thing is "baptized" after baking in a bath of clarified butter, then finished with powdered sugar as fluffy as the season's first snowfall.
'New York' on Serious Eats
The dining room of Staten Island's New Asha is all styrofoam and steam tables. But when you step into the back kitchen, it's a wholly different world. Bamboo steamers gurgle over pots of boiling water and jars of homemade spice blends line the walls. A hand-powered drill and a machete are on hand to transform hirsute whole coconuts into snowy white mounds of freshly ground flesh.
New York is home to many great restaurants. But how many of them offer truly great desserts? I'm not talking about having one beloved signature item that's been on the menu for years. I'm talking about places that offer ever-changing, reliably delicious desserts that are worth staying around after your meal.
Whether you're sticking to the tourist mainstays of midtown or venturing to the far corners of the city, this master guide has everything you need for your New York trip.
New York is one great noodle town, but my new favorite bowl comes from a forward-thinking restaurant hugging the eastern border of Chinatown, where some excellent noodles take inspiration from an unlikely source: linguine with clam sauce.
Welcome to Astoria, home of the city's greatest Greek food and shawarma. It's where neighborhood sausage shops and Italian delis are still part of daily life, and where cafes line the streets with games of backgammon and strong mint tea, or tiny cups of even stronger coffee with flaky phyllo pastries. Here's how to eat it all.
Riccardo Romero has a dream, and arepas play a starring role. "I think arepas have a shot to become the next great American food," he says. He should know, as he's serving some of New York's finest.
Tarte tatin was a big restaurant dessert that fell off our collective sweet radar. Now, in New York, it's come back with a vengeance, perhaps better than ever. Here's why it's worth an order all over again.
Longtime New York deli-goers know all about Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda, the herbaceous, bitter, and peppery soft drink that, yes, is still in production, with a zaftig perfume that's equal parts beguiling and refreshing. So where did this weird soda come from, and how has it survived so many of the delis that stocked it?
When travelers to New York ask me where to eat, I send them to Flushing. When locals ask me about a new restaurant I'm excited about, the answer's often there. But let's say you have just one day to take a whirlwind tour of the neighborhood. What do you need to try?
Indian food in New York keeps getting better and better. Need proof? Look to its snacks. Meet chaat, the compulsively delicious South Asian carb salad that represents some of the best of what New York's Indian restaurants have to offer.
Meeting with the Community Board is basically like doing martial arts. Win, lose, or draw, it's gonna hurt. You don't really engage so much as struggle for survival. And somewhere in the middle of all this, all you want to do is curl into a ball and whimper for your mommy.
The iconic red sauce meatball—one of the foundational foods of Italian cuisine in the U.S.—has more to do with the New World than Naples. Its development, and its influence on what Italian-American cuisine would become in the U.S., is inextricably tied to New York City. This is the city where Italian-American became American, and where the meatball as we know it began.
I'm having tea with Helen You in her palatial new restaurant, where we're about to cook my favorite dumplings in the world. There may be other kitchens on earth making fat boiled dumplings stuffed with lamb and summer squash, but none make them like Helen's.
Forget fro-yo—New York's greatest tangy asset is its new wealth of locally made fresh yogurt, which come in a dizzying array of flavors and textures that run laps around supermarket brands.
I don't have an eye for design and I don't have much money to beautify my restaurant space. But decor goes a long way towards turning a restaurant into a neighborhood hang out. And once I learned I could build a bar by setting wood on fire, I gained a whole new interest in interior design.
We've been closely—nay, obsessively—following the state of the bagel in New York these days, and we'll just come out and say it: Fred's cafe at Barney's makes bagels that are just as good, if not better, than any of the city's other contenders for Top Bagel. Here's how they're made.
Now that I'm working on opening a restaurant, I can have great days and awful days. They are often 18 hours long. Here's what a day in my life looks like right now.
New York has no shortage of good desserts, but how many would you call essential? What are the sweets you need to know to see how we do dessert in this town? A few months ago, we asked ourselves that question. Then we got to tasting.
Building a restaurant around Carolina-style whole hog is just bad business sense: the high food cost means slim profits. So here's how I'm making my restaurant a financially viable one.