The news cycled quickly through the Slice ranks: Bill Pustari, owner of venerated New Haven pizzeria Modern Apizza, just opened a concession stand at Seattle's Safeco Field. For a Seattleite like myself, 3,000 miles from Connecticut, the only natural reaction to such an announcement is to emit the high-pitched squeal usually reserved for prepubescent girls upon acquisition of backstage passes at a Justin Bieber concert.
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According to the staff, the original pizza cook at Bar once worked at Sally's on Wooster Street, and at first glance, the pedigree is apparent: the pizzas are served over a sheet of parchment paper set into aluminum sheet trays, shaped into elongated circles to better fit the rectangular pan. There are differences, too, though—the pizzas are substantially thinner than other New Haven pies, and they are sliced into rectangles rather than the usual wedges.
When we just couldn't eat any more, I told one of the guys behind the counter that the clam pie was amazing because it appeared to be made from freshly shucked clams. His reply: "I hope it tastes like freshly shucked clams because that's exactly what was on the pizza. Why do you think it took so long for your clam pie? We shucked every one of the clams after you ordered your pizza."
It had been 20 years since I'd last been to Washington DC's Columbia Heights neighborhood. Two decades ago, the area was a grim scene of trash-lined streets, dilapidated storefronts, and beat-up row homes. Today, the revitalized U Street Corridor is home to two pizzerias that I was interested in visiting: RedRocks and Pete's Apizza.
[Photographs: New York Times] The New York Times takes a look at the newish Frank Pepe's branch that opened in Yonkers in early November of last year: The pizza is very good — although you have to be careful what you order. The original tomato pie, a Spartan exercise in dough topped only with crushed tomatoes and a sprinkling of Romano cheese, tasted of good-quality canned tomatoes and little else. That same pie with mozzarella was better, and one with mozzarella and spicy, fennel-spiked pepperoni was downright delicious. A version with plump marinated shrimp was also surprisingly good. And...