Far less popular than creamy New England clam chowder, Rhode Island's dairy-free version deserves a lot more attention. The rich broth is brightened with white wine and loaded with the flavor of clams, chunks of tender potato, and bits of smoky bacon. It may be my new go-to chowder.
'New England' on Serious Eats
Beefaroni, macaroni and beef, chili mac, Johnny Marzetti, or American chop suey, call it what you will, but whatever its origins, there's one thing for sure: the stuff is delicious. Tender pasta with a rich tomato and beef sauce flavored with garlic and oregano, cooked together with onions and peppers, and finished with cheese, this is Italian-American comfort food at its finest. Not only that, but it's a ridiculously easy dish to put together, cooked 100% on the stovetop, and requiring nothing more than a pot, a bowl, and about half an hour of your time.
The glory of the lobster roll is that all the picking and shelling has already been done, and all that's left is to bite into that glorious pile of dressed meat. Here are two great recipes for classic New England-style (with mayo) and Connecticut-style (with butter and scallions), that you need to make before summer ends.
I was born in Boston and was raised New York as a kid before going back to live in Boston for another 10 years during and after college. Whenever convenient, I like to consider myself a New Englander. That time is usually in the summer, when the rocky beaches are at their drizzliest and the coastal clam shacks fire up the boilers and fryers.
I still make it a point to make at least one or two New England road trips every summer so that I can get my seafood fix. But even when I can't get up to Yankee-land, I'll do my best to get my fix right at home. You can do it too with these recipes for clam chowder, lobster rolls, blueberry pie, and more.
The early settlers' weak cider would only keep for so long and cider makers soon began adding sugar to their juice to increase the final alcohol level. More booze in the cider meant that it kept better—both at home and for export. A handful of homemade raisins contributed fresh yeast for fermentation.
When done right, clam chowder should be rich and filling, but not sludgy or stew-like. But what is the best way to cook chowder? Can the dump-and-simmer method be improved upon by some modern technique? I decided to break it down element by element and figure out how to make the platonic ideal of my childhood Cape Cod memories.
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt] Note: For best results, use live clams. If live clams are unavailable, skip steps 2 and 4. In step 6, add 1 pound chopped canned or frozen clams to chowder before heating through to serve. About...
With my apologies to Nutella, this is what happens to hazelnuts when they die and go to heaven: they become Cold Fusion gelato.
Talk about good bread in Boston and only a few names come to mind. Iggy's. Sel de la Terre. Pain D'Avignon. The latter recently celebrated its 20th anniversary and has launched a brand new "bread of the month" club, a mail-order service that delivers fresh bread via 2-day delivery direct to your door. The Cape-based bakery focuses on European-style crusty, flavorful, open-holed loaves in a variety of flavors. We recently received a sample of five of their breads to taste. Check out the slideshow for our thoughts.
This year we have a true Super Bowl of food and football. New England vs. New York. These regions have intense rivalries involving sports teams, quality of life, and, yes, food. Let's break down this Super Bowl of Food into the following categories: pizza, burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, ice cream, breakfast, bakeries, and soup. Check out how each team plays.
Cider doughnuts are the reward you (tell yourself you) earn after a long hour or so of apple picking. But as we pleasantly discovered in our quest for the best--or, at least the best within a reasonable drive from Boston--the tradition isn't limited to apple orchards..
Making the pork for these Saturday sandwiches (both $8.95) itself is a three-day process: the shoulder roast gets coated in the same spice rub that Kelsey uses on the beef and cures for two days. (The result, he says, is "a dead ringer for guanciale.") Then he slow-roasts it and chills it overnight; that way, it reabsorbs all its flavorful juices and slices cleanly.
The Spuckie ($4.10/half, $7.95/whole) is the only sandwich on the menu with a real history, Kelsey says. Originally when he was dreaming up his business, he'd envisioned a muffaletta truck. Sometime after the truck plan evolved into a brick-and-mortar op, the muffaletta turned into the Spuckie, South Boston's take on the Big Easy classic.
Affectionately dubbed "the sleeper hit of the shop," this Wednesday special ($7.50) was born out of leftovers from some of Cutty's bigger-name sensations. The sautéed broccoli rabe and the crispy, sesame-studded Iggy's roll comes from Saturday's Pork Rabe Torta; hand-pulled fresh mozzarella from the Spuckie; and their kickass tangy-sweet tomato jam from the seasonal, can't-wait-for-/can't-let-go-of-summer BLTJ.
A celebrity* invented this sandwich, but that's not why it became famous. According to Kelsey, the Spicy Pork Torta ($7.99) is another one of those examples of the staff mixing and matching X,Y, and Z from the raw materials they keep on hand, and coming up with something amazing.
It makes up half of the shop's sales (to keep up with demand, Kelsey roasts 200 pounds of beef every week.) It brings customers in from Worcester. It's widely considered the best roast beef sandwich in town—and Boston is a roast beef sandwich kinda town. We're talking Cutty's Roast Beef 1,000.
Between Saturday's roast pork and Tuesday's pork carnitas, there's a lot of pork cooking at Cutty's. That also means there's a lot of pork fat rendering at Cutty's, and the staff recently came up with a brilliant way to use it: pork fat biscuits. Consider this the other "bread" option for your AM sandwich, the rich, craggy biscuit done up with thin-sliced ham, cheese, housemade pickle chips, and, as a nod to the South, red-eye mayo.
Pie day may be March 14, but we think summertime is the best time for pie eatin'. From straight-up raspberry and sour cherry, to combo flavors like peach-blackberry and strawberry-rhubarb, we invite you to have a little dessert with us at a few of our favorite spots in New England.
A lobster roll consists of chunks of tender, sweet, cooked lobster meat barely napped in a thin coating of mayonnaise, all stuffed into a top-split, white-bread hot dog bun lightly toasted in butter. How do you make the best of such a simple creation? As with many things, it all comes down to attention to detail. Perfect selection and treatment of ingredients, balance, and above all, the ability to restrain yourself from over thinking. It's just a lobster roll, right?
The IPAs brewed in New England don't fit into a single mold. Some hew to the British origins of the style and showcase malts as much as hops. Others subscribe to the modern American view of hops—if some are good, more must be better. Many examples walked the line between these two categories, balancing gentle hops with malt. Perhaps that's New England's stamp on the IPA style—a respect for heritage with a willingness to occasionally toss tradition into the harbor and start a revolution.