'Neapolitan-Style' on Serious Eats

Openings: 7 Enoteca Features Canada's First Site-Built Stefano Ferrara Oven

Located just south of Toronto in the town of Oakville, Ontario, 7 Enoteca has been open for about two weeks. The small menu features cheeses, salumi and prosciutto appetizers, as well as a meat, a pasta and a fish that will change daily. However, the star of the show is the Neapolitan-style pizzas being served out of Canada's first on-site built Stefano Ferrara oven. More

Scottsdale, Arizona: 'Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana

'Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana is situated in the Borgata, a faux Italian plaza built about 20 years ago in the heart of Scottsdale, Arizona. Stefano Fabbri opened the restaurant—the valley's first VPN-certified pizzeria—in February of this year with his Acunto Forni brick oven as the prominent centerpiece. This 6,000-pound beauty was hand-built in Naples, shipped across the ocean, and then brought all the way to Arizona. More

Daily Slice: Motorino's Cherrystone Clam Pizza, East Village, NYC

October! National Pizza Month! This month we'll be bringing you Daily Slice, quick snapshots of slices and pies all of us at the Serious Eats empire have been enjoying lately. —The Mgmt. [Photograph: Sarah Wu/Motorino Facebook] Given how much we love Motorino around these parts, it shouldn't come as a surprise that the pizzeria would eventually appear in Daily Slice. Yes, it's a whole pie — composed of four slices. And, despite this feature's name, we never meant it to adhere slavishly to the slice-only format. Especially if that would keep us from mentioning this killer pizza. If you've followed... More

Donatella's: Neapolitan Pizza That May Please the Purist and Everyone Else

[Photographs: Nick Solares] Donatella's 184 Eighth Avenue, New York NY 10011 ; map); 212-493-5150 Pizza Style: Neapolitan The skinny: Straight-up fine pizza. A hearty "Recommend!" Oven Type: Wood-fired Price: Individual pies, $12 to $20 By Nick Solares and Adam Kuban | In opening a Neapolitan pizzeria in the U.S. these days, it's become de rigueur to import an oven from Naples, make a lot of noise about said oven, and enumerate your bona fides to the press. Perhaps no one in recent memory has gone as far as restaurateur Donatella Arpaia. If you've been following Slice, you know that she... More

Orange County, California: Great Neapolitan Pies at Pizza Ortica

[Photographs: L.A. Pizza Maven] Pizza Ortica 650 Anton Boulevard, Costa Mesa CA 92626 (map); 714-445-4900; pizzeriaortica.com Pizza style: Neapolitan Oven type: Wood-fired oven When it opened early in 2009, Pizza Ortica generated its share of controversy on Chowhound. This David Myers venture, next door to South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, California, was variously described as "the worst pizza experience ever," "$87 for pizza and pasta? Extortion!" and "embarrassingly mediocre." Many of the complaints repeated, ad nauseam, the old "too limp and wet in the center" refrain. More recently, several Southland bloggers have defended Ortica's pizza style as Neapolitan-influenced... More

Falls Church, Virginia: Pizzeria Orso

After much anticipation, Pizzeria Orso, with Edan MacQuaid as executive chef, is up and running in the close-in Washington suburb of Falls Church, Virginia. MacQuaid made his name as head pizzaiolo at 2 Amys in Northwest D.C., now one of the most popular restaurants — of any kind — in the nation's capital, and was a pioneer in bringing true Neapolitan pizza to the U.S. After 18 years in the pizza business, the still-young MacQuaid is now running his own show, creating an exquisite pizzeria that is respectful but not slavish to the ancient traditions. More

Greenpoint, Brooklyn: Paulie Gee's

Photographs by Nick Solares Paulie Gee's 60 Greenpoint Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11222; 347-987-3747; pauliegee.com Pizza Style: Neapolitan-style pizza Oven Type: Wood-fired oven The Skinny: As much as a labor of love as any pizzeria out there, Paulie Gee's creates a warm, inviting mood and serves wonderful pies patterned on the Neapolitan model but with a local slant Price: Individual pies, $11 to $17 Notes: Liquor license coming next week If Paulie Gee ever runs out of fuel for his oven, he could probably scuttle his restaurant's interior, which is decked out floor to ceiling in wood, and keep making pizzas... More

Openings: Pizzeria Orso, Falls Church VA

[Photographs: Pizzeria Orso] Pizzeria Orso, the long-awaited D.C.-area wood-fired-oven joint helmed by former 2 Amys pizzaman Edan MacQuaid along with wife Thea MacQuaid, has finally opened. Seriouspizza has been chiming in here and there with updates. We'll save him the trouble of commenting by mentioning it right here, right now. It opened just a few minutes ago at 11 a.m.... More

Donatella Arpaia Getting into the Neapolitan Pizza Game

Donatella Arpaia outside her upcoming restaurant, Donatella, with a ton (or more) of bricks for her oven. [Photograph: Joshua Bright/Diner's Journal] Looks like restaurateur and frequent Iron Chef America judge Donatella Arpaia is getting into the Neapolitan pizza game. According to this story on the New York Times's Diner's Journal blog, she's having bricks, sand, and cement all imported from Naples to build her oven and is bringing in the requisite Neapolitan oven-builders to construct it. But probably what's most interesting is that she's going to be studying pizza-making under Enzo Coccia of Pizzeria La Notizia in Naples for... More

Washington DC (Columbia Heights): RedRocks & Pete's Apizza

It had been 20 years since I'd last been to Washington DC's Columbia Heights neighborhood. Two decades ago, the area was a grim scene of trash-lined streets, dilapidated storefronts, and beat-up row homes. Today, the revitalized U Street Corridor is home to two pizzerias that I was interested in visiting: RedRocks and Pete's Apizza. More

Motorino: No Sleep 'til Naples

Motorino 349 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003 (near First Ave.; map); 212-777-2644; motorinopizza.com Pizza Style: Neapolitan Oven Type: Wood-fired Price: $11 to $17 Hours: Sun.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri., Sat., 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Delivery available When Anthony Mangieri closed Una Pizza Napoletana last year it was a loss for lovers of Neapolitan pizza. No one was more passionate--some would say militant--about their pizza than Mangieri, and I don't think anyone produced a more authentic Neapolitan pizza outside Naples. But as much as a labor of love as it was, I often wondered how sustainable Una was in the... More

'Pizza Hacker' and His Amazing Franken-Weber

I've been sleeping on this story for a while, and for that I must apologize to you, dear reader, and to the Pizza Hacker, a pizza street vendor who I've known about for a couple months but haven't yet blogged about. The Pizza Hacker, based in San Francisco, uses a modified 22.5-inch Weber kettle grill that he's fitted with fire bricks. To mimic a traditional pizza oven, whose shape is ideal for cooking a pizza, he used the original lid to mold an oven dome from refractory cement and perlite. Pizza Hacker shows up at various locations throughout SF... More

Seattle: Via Tribunali, Neapolitan-Style Pizza

[Photograph: Adam Kuban] There are five Via Tribunali locations in Seattle, each of them VPN-certified. I don't know what the other four look like (though I get a bit of an idea looking at the VT website), but the one in Seattle's Belltown neighborhood, attached to the Crocodile, is dark, moody, and menacing, if only in a sort of pretend-menacing kind of way. In perhaps a nod to Mt. Vesuvius and the fire of the wood oven, there are ink-black and fiery-orange paintings of erupting volcanoes on the wall. The chandeliers hold glowing-red candelabra bulbs, their imitation flames flickering.... More

Pizzeria Picco: Wallowing in a Bay of Pizza

Pizzeria Picco's Margherita pie. [Photographs: L.A. Pizza Maven] If you've been reading Slice, you'll know that the in the last few years the San Francisco Bay Area has been awash with lip-smacking, finger-sucking, delirium-inducing pizza. When I think about the years I spent in San Francisco wandering from neighborhood to neighborhood--from the Haight to Soma, from the Marina to the deep Richmond, from Chinatown to the Mission--in search of a decent pie, I can hardly believe the city's culinary transformation. Once, the best pizza that could be found was limited, in my experience, to Tomasso's in North Beach. I... More

Atlanta's Enrico Liberata Moves from Fritti to Antico Pizza Napoletana

Clicking in to the Slice inbox today, we've got this email with some Hotlanta pizza intel. Interestingly, its subject line was "New Atlanta pizza freakout." --The Mgmt. [Photograph: The Blissful Glutton] Adam,I went to Fritti in Atlanta last night, the mainstay which was the only VPN pizza place in town, and also has a new pizzaiolo since Enrico Liberata left. The pizza at Fritti was excellent—tangy, wonderful sauce, not soggy in the center (had been a problem), wonderful light, puffy, flavorful, and well charred crust.No sooner had I come home from dinner, I look on the internets and see that... More

The 'New York Times' on San Francisco's Flour + Water

[Photograph: Flour + Water] A little strange to see this in the New York Times (it may be part of the paper's nationwide expansion strategy), but the Gray Lady gets out to Flour + Water in San Francisco's Mission District. From the review: "We make the kind of food that chefs like to eat," [Flour + Water chef Thomas] McNaughton said of the restaurant's cooking style. Given the restaurant's name, it should come as no surprise that pizza and pastas are focuses. The kitchen has a wood-fired oven, and Jon Darsky, the pizzaiolo, is a skilled operator; even before... More

Nomad Pizza Co.: Notes from the Field

Friend of Slice and Serious Eats New York contributor Tam Ngo recently emailed some field notes from a recent visit to Nomad Pizza Co., a newish Neapolitan pizza operation in Hopewell, New Jersey, that's been getting some love from the pizzerati as of late. Here are her quick impressions of the place. --The Mgmt. [Photographs: Tam Ngo] I haven't had heavyhitter Neapolitan-style Motorino yet, so I can't compare it. But Nomad's crust is crisper, more pliant, and has a more developed flavor than that of Keste's. (Even though I dug the texture, Keste's crust was surprisingly monoflavored to me.)... More

A16, San Francisco

[Photographs: L.A. Pizza Maven] My summer pizza safari to San Francisco proved to be an unqualified success. No, I didn’t return home with the stuffed heads of pizza-makers, but I did bag two transcendent pie experiences. Tony Gemignani, of Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in North Beach, served me an impeccable Margherita and sausage pie, the red, green and white colors swirling in an almost hallucinatory vision made doubly intense by the intoxicating aromas that nearly knocked me off the bar stool. The following afternoon I visited A16, the VPN-certified pizza restaurant in the Marina District that gained fame for its... More

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