I'd never tasted honey on pizza before Paulie Gee introduced me to it, but it was so darn natural that it felt like every pizzeria should have honey on the table, right next to the red pepper flakes. Honey and spicy dry-cured sausage is one of those combinations that are just meant to be. Here's how to experience it for yourself.
'Neapolitan' on Serious Eats
On a Monday night not long ago, I popped into Via Tribunali New York, the sole East Coast outpost of the Seattle-born pizza chain. My companion and I were taken into the dining room (about the size of a rich man's tool shed), and seated under a picture of the Bay of Naples. The vista depicted the Naples of a bygone era—a nostalgic vision of the old country.
Tourists, rejoice! If you're planning to visit San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, it turns out that you're not stuck with lousy food. Carmel Pizza Company has you covered with quality Neapolitan-inspired pizzas out of a wood-fired oven.
I'm very proud to announce today the release of the new Serious Eats edition Baking Steel and KettlePizza combo set, what I believe to be the best out-of-the-box system for making true wood-burning Neapolitan-style oven pizza in your back yard.
In a neighborhood with lots of solid pizza but little that's exceptional, a place that makes destination-worthy pies remains Astoria's golden unicorn. Though Basil Brick Oven is a go-to spot for Neapolitan pizza in the neighborhood, the market's gotten more crowded lately, wood burning ovens and all.
Inspired by the Filetti pizza at Anthony Mangieri's Una Pizza Napoletana, this pie combines fresh cherry tomatoes with mozzarella, basil, garlic, olive oil, and a couple twists of our own.
Inspired by the Filettie pizza at San Francisco's Una Pizza Napoletana, this pie combines fresh mozzarella with cherry tomatoes, sliced garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and basil.
Even in California, fig season doesn't last forever, and the specimens I was picking up last week had already lost their figgy luster. The best way to use less-than-perfect figs is to cook them. Not only does this drive off some of their moisture, concentrating their flavor, but it also converts some of their more complex sugars to simple sugars that are sweeter than their precursors. Your figs become jammier and all around tastier. This works especially well on a pizza cooked in a hot oven because that bite of cheese and drizzle of olive oil can go straight on top with the figs.
A sauce-less pizza with a sweet and savory topping of mozzarella, goat's milk feta, and quartered figs, all drizzled with olive oil and honey.
The first time I had radicchio on a pizza was about a decade ago in the old converted barn that my good friend and food writer Deborah Krasner calls home, up in Putney, Vermont. I still remember her exact words, because I didn't believe them at the time: "The leaves become just wonderfully sweet when they're roasted and charred," she said. In what was, at that point, my very limited experience, charring things always made them more bitter, not less. Luckily, she was right, I was wrong, and deliciousness ensued.
Lightly bitter radicchio sweetens as it chars, complementing the flavor of Italian sausage in this Neapolitan-style pizza.
At Ribalta, pizzas are leavened by a natural starter that was brought back from Italy—it's somewhere between 80 and 100 years old, and over the course of a five to seven day rise it brings a noticeable lightness and cultured flavor to the dough. But unlike certain Neapolitan pizzerias that take a monastic approach to the One and Only pie, Ribalta plays around with tradition—just ask the hot dog and fries pizza or the limoncello-marinated chicken wings.
A basic Neapolitan-style pizza dough.
Owned by Sebastiano Cappitta, who recently opened nearby Bettolona, Buca is a tiny space on a quiet block, with six tables — seven if you count the one on the sidewalk — perhaps fitting for a place whose name means hole in Italian. It's small but doesn't feel cramped. Attilio Reale is the pizzaiolo here, manning a fire-breathing oven akin to the one you may have seen at Roberta's.
Reaching in to the Slice mailbag, we've got some tips from the D.C. area ... Adam,Just a few items I thought worth noting.1. Aside from Pizzeria Orso, in other Northern Virginia/D.C. pizza news, the couple behind Pupatella, a Neapolitan pizza cart you mentioned a couple years ago, finally opened their full restaurant a couple weeks ago. It is also called Pupatella, and I've been twice now, and while they are still getting the operation in order, the pizza I had most recently was fantastic. Probably better than 2 Amys, which is their only real D.C.-area competition (the others are mediocre...
Thought you all might want a little break from my recent ramblings. Here's a field report from Gianluca Rottura (who you might know round these parts as nextgospel). Enjoy! --The Mgmt. [Photographs: Gianluca Rottura] Unfortunately, I must make this article for Slice as short as possible. If there were no limits, I could write a book on my lunch at Pizzeria Starita. For those of you familiar with Kesté Pizza & Vino in New York City, the co-owner and pizzaiolo there, Roberto Caporuscio, perfected his skills at this Neapolitan landmark, which was featured in the Sophia Loren flick L'Oro di...
”Is not a’ fake oven like weet legna in front and deh back is gas. Forno a legna, solo legna.” In every way, Gran Gusto is a product of Naples. That’s not just a comment on the owners of this trattoria (who hail from just outside Naples) or its menu (heavy on the eggplant, seafood, and handmade pasta). The restaurant runs on Neapolitan time. It’s a bit dysfunctional, in a way that’s endearing if you’re patient, frustrating if you’re not. Nearly all ingredients are flown over from the old country: better olive oil; higher prices. Service is competent, but aggressive—as...
Photograph from stu_spivack on Flickr Pizza Margherita will now be recognized as a "regional specialty" in Naples by the European Union under its official name, the Pizza Napoletana. This means anyone claiming to sell a Pizza Napoletana must now adhere to the rules of what constitutes a Pizza Napoletana, as conceived by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (the True Neapolitan Pizza Association): The diameter must be no more than 35 cm (14 inches) in diameter and no thicker than 1/3 of a centimeter at its center The tomato base must be made from the San Marzano variety of tomatoes...
View Slice's Bronx Pizza Map » Food maven Arthur Schwarz reports on Zero Otto Nove, a newish Neapolitan joint on Arthur Avenue in The Bronx that has somehow managed to fly under the Slice radar: Roberto’s has been a destination restaurant for years. Now Zero Otto Nove has become one. It is already, after only a few months in business, drawing customers from the hinterlands, and for several good reasons. Top among them, I am sure, is the Neapolitan-style pizza that may be the best you’ve ever had in the U.S., and better than many in Naples, as I...
Photograph courtesy of the Pupatella pizza cart. Melissa McCart (Counter Intelligence) writes about a type of street cart you don't often see, a Neapolitan pizza cart. It's in Arlington, Virginia's Ballston neighborhood: Enzo Algarme and Anastasiya Laufenberg weren't kidding when they said they know pizza. The name of Ballston's new Pupatella Food Cart—pupatella is slang for doll in Naples—is a reference to Algarme's grandmother who inspired his love of cooking. Although they've only been open a week and are making do with a standard oven as opposed to the wood-burning one that's becoming the standard in the area's top...