The Pastrami Burger at Jeffrey's Grocery is great, but its $19 price tag is hard to swallow.
'NYC' on Serious Eats
Not that you'd go to Emmett's for a burger, but we tried it so we'll tell you how it is.
Designed in collaboration with Ink chef and former Top Chef champion Michael Voltaggio, this burger is topped with Busseto prosciutto and Gruyère fondue and served on a French toast-ified bun dusted with powdered sugar. A first glance it seemingly appeals solely to gluttonous masochists and lovers of a good culinary mashup. Sadly, I am both.
If anyone would serve a burger with a giant bone sticking out of it, it'd be M. Wells.
From re-opened classics like Totonno's and Franny's to newbies like Brooklyn Central, we've chowed down on some top-notch pies this year. Here are the reviews we most enjoyed writing (and, um, "researching") in 2013!
On a Monday night not long ago, I popped into Via Tribunali New York, the sole East Coast outpost of the Seattle-born pizza chain. My companion and I were taken into the dining room (about the size of a rich man's tool shed), and seated under a picture of the Bay of Naples. The vista depicted the Naples of a bygone era—a nostalgic vision of the old country.
Whenever I hear that an acclaimed pizzeria has expanded with a second (let alone third) branch, I can't help but let loose a skeptical eyebrow raise, a tilt of the head, a smirk of a shrug. If you're like me, get ready for a pleasant surprise, because Rizzo's latest outpost is turning out pies that stand up to the original storefront's (and give them a run for their money, to boot).
Umami Burger just doesn't hold up against similar burgers in its price range. While the Manly Burger is a solid choice, the Original lacks balance and highlights the problems with making "umami" an end in itself. Like someone overloading a dish with bacon or fiery chilies, the end result is one-note and, frankly, misses the point.
At Ribalta, pizzas are leavened by a natural starter that was brought back from Italy—it's somewhere between 80 and 100 years old, and over the course of a five to seven day rise it brings a noticeable lightness and cultured flavor to the dough. But unlike certain Neapolitan pizzerias that take a monastic approach to the One and Only pie, Ribalta plays around with tradition—just ask the hot dog and fries pizza or the limoncello-marinated chicken wings.
Pennsylvania 6's fantastic dry aged burger is an easy recommendation for anyone traveling through Penn Station or visiting Madison Square Garden.
Before Mayor Bloomberg shut them down in 2010, off-track betting parlors, or OTBs, were a bastion of classic NYC seediness. Earlier this year, the OTB was revived in the form of a bar/restaurant in a prospering section of South Williamsburg. The cheeseburger is a classic, straightforward rendition, but it's the crisp, chili-brined fries that are the real winner.
December 20th, 2011 marked Shake Shack's first foray into Brooklyn. Now the burger empire has its sights set on Dumbo for a location to open in mid-2014.
It's a match made in trendy-NYC-food heaven (or hell): an Umami Burger with a bisected Cronut-for-buns. Yesterday, Matthew Schonfeld of First We Feast spent about five hours making this burger mash-up, starting at 6:38 a.m. when he got in line at Dominique Ansel Bakery for their limited number of deep-fried croissant doughnuts, and ending at the grand opening of Umami Burger's first NYC location.
I'd only ever been to Island Burger and Shakes at its original Hell's Kitchen location once and at the time my mental capacity had been modified to a common late night state during which the only parameters I am able to judge things by are their size and moisture content. I remember the burger being large and moist, and that was good enough for me for the time being. When I recently re-visited both the Hell's Kitchen location and the newer Upper West Side location, I discovered, to my embarrassment and horror, that Island Burger and Shakes was actually not anything like my intoxicated self had promised my sober self it would be.
West Coast burger chain Umami Burger is set to open the first of three planned New York outposts next Monday in the West Village. The restaurant will be a sit-down, waiter service affair, with a full bar and cocktails. The menu will focus heavily on burgers and sides as one would expect, but it will also feature salads and possibly other sandwiches in the near future. Take a look through the slideshow at some of the burgers and cocktails »
These standard burgers distinguish themselves from the competitors, but they won't knock your socks off.
The Odeon has a more interesting history than most other restaurants. In fact, Gael Greene named it one of the top ten "most important" restaurants in New York City. Their exceptionally beefy burger has been a standby since the beginning over 30 years ago.
Mathieu Palombino is poised to open Motorino Williamsburg in the next week, marking a return to the borough after the building housing his original location was condemned. He's happy to be back, and his menu features a few surprises, both old and new. Check out the slideshow to take a look.
Maison Harlem is fast becoming my favorite neighborhood hang. The food—mostly classic Paris-style bistro fare—is nothing innovative, but solid enough to earn my money. The space is warm, a friendly neighborhood bar with worn-in tables and bar seats—the kind of space you'd expect in, say, the West Village, minus the oppressive crowds and loud music. And they've got a killer burger to boot.