For a long time, owner Enzo Algarme has been doing most of the heavy lifting at Pupatella. Although he's had the montanara in the back of his mind since his food truck days, having grown up eating it on the streets of Naples as a child, he didn't want to stretch himself too thin, lest the quality of his other pies suffer. When he was able to bring on some more employees earlier this year, he seized that opportunity to start offering the montanara on a limited basis. If you're as happy as I am that D.C. is keeping up with New York's pizza scene in even the remotest aspect, it is your solemn duty to make it out to Pupatella and demand the montanara as frequently as possible.
'Montanara' on Serious Eats
At Slice we ever endeavor to keep expanding our knowledge about all things pizza. As such, our Regional Pizza Style Index is always growing as we learn about new regional varieties around the globe. The time has come to add some updates to our style guide!
Here on Slice we've been following the fried pizza phenomenon taking hold in New York with great interest. And why not?! Pizza fritta is delicious; thin and crisp on the outside, light and airy on the inside. You could call it an obsession. Now it's time to get your read on this style...
Neapolitan style pizza with one key difference. Before going in the oven, the stretched-out disk of dough is deep fried until crisp. I figured it was worth a deeper look. I'm glad I did, because I can tell you that these were some of the finest pies to ever come out of my home kitchen, and believe it or not, it's remarkably simple to do.
Check out La Montanara, the all-fried pizzeria from Forcella's Giulio Adriani, with five variations on the montanara, Neapolitan snacks, and even some fried desserts. This isn't your grandfather's county fair fried dough.
Last week we gave you a quick look at Don Antonio, the Neapolitan pizzeria that's a partnership between Kesté's Roberto Caporuscio and his mentor, Antonio Starita of Naples' Pizzeria Starita. Here, we take you along as Starita and Caporuscio—along with Caporuscio's daughter, Giorgia—make some of the place's signature menu items.
Fried pizza is real and New York is currently experiencing its first real dose in the deep fryer. It's soft with a thin crisp on the outside, deceivingly light and airy, and unbelievably addictive, but what exactly is it and where does it come from?
OK. Forget for a minute that Forcella is doing some solidly legit traditional pizzas. That's all well and good and totally worth your while. But just know that the place is the only pizzeria I know of in NYC that's doing a deep-fried "montagnara" pizza.