'Mississippi Delta' on Serious Eats

In Mississippi, Southern Italian Food Takes on a Whole New Meaning

Though I've had more than my fair share of oysters Mosca and chicken grande at Mosca's, the justifiably famous Creole Italian restaurant just outside New Orleans, I'd never really thought of the American South as having much in the way of an Italian restaurant tradition. But in the last two days I've eaten two terrific and totally different Italian meals in Mississippi that were each in their own way absolutely true to themselves and the towns they are situated in. L&M's Kitchen and Salumeria is the brainchild of Dan Latham, a native Mississippian and Ole Miss and French Culinary Institute grad who cooked and made salumi at Otto, Babbo, and Pó, Mario Batali's restaurants in New York City's Greenwich Village.... More

Post Tamale Stress Disorder

This month's Esquire has a willfully ignorant piece by Iraq war veteran, blogger, and writer Colby Buzzell about the Mississippi Delta Tamale Trail. All the piece does is reinforce the worst kind of racial, regional, and cultural stereotyping that occasionally still goes on when "serious" writers deign to write about things like barbecue and tamales and fried chicken. Southern Foodways Alliance oral historian Amy Evans of Southern Foodways's Tamale Project had this to say in response to Buzzell's piece: While it's impossible for this guy to have missed our project online—or anywhere—and unprofessional and unwise to not make the slightest mention of us and our Tamale Trail, the thing that gets me the most is his portrayal of the Delta.... More

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