Attempting to eat every taco in the Mission in a single day would be like trying to take a shot every time Luke Skywalker whines in Star Wars—not a wise move for those who want to live to the end of the day. So I decided off the bat that I'd limit myself to the taquerias within walking distance of the 24th Street and Mission Ave. BART station, one of the more popular strips in the district. I whittled the list down to 11 taquerias.
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Since Beretta opened in 2008, much of the buzz has been about the cocktails. But even if they're not the main event, Beretta's pizzas are a likable piece in a winning overall restaurant concept.
With Flour + Water you're not getting a pizzeria, but a restaurant that serves pizzas. This past Sunday night, there were five pizzas on the menu, but also dishes like pasta with hen sausage and chicken cracklins, as well as crispy oxtail nuggets over polenta. These other dishes are good, which creates a dilemma even for the pizza-obsessed when dining at Flour + Water. To pizza, or not to pizza?
The city's Mission District has been considered ground zero for great Mexican food in Northern California. But having lived away from the Bay Area for over six years—and spent the better part of the last two falling in love with the tacos of central Texas—my memories of Mission Street taquerias have started to fade. When I returned last weekend, I took the BART train straight to the Mission's 24th Street Station (where no less than seven taquerias populate a one-block radius) to determine what sets this city's best tacos apart.
[Photograph: Flour + Water] A little strange to see this in the New York Times (it may be part of the paper's nationwide expansion strategy), but the Gray Lady gets out to Flour + Water in San Francisco's Mission District. From the review: "We make the kind of food that chefs like to eat," [Flour + Water chef Thomas] McNaughton said of the restaurant's cooking style. Given the restaurant's name, it should come as no surprise that pizza and pastas are focuses. The kitchen has a wood-fired oven, and Jon Darsky, the pizzaiolo, is a skilled operator; even before...
I recall a certain episode of Star Trek: The Next Generation in which the android Mr. Data is told that although his recital of Mozart's "Eine Kleine Nachtmusik" is technically perfect, it lacks soul. That's how I feel about most of the Neapolitan-style pizza I've tried. When it's done right, it's delicious but often lacks a nice crispness, and its daintiness is almost always just a little less than satisfying. So when Girl Slice and I met up with some of her friends at Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco's Mission District over the holidays, I was prepared to be...