'Mimi Sheraton' on Serious Eats

A Cook's Tour of Milan

"Most visitors to Milan, Italy's center of finance, commerce and design, go looking for gold, literally or figuratively, and so do I. But the gold I search for is culinary." Former New York Times food critic Mimi Sheraton goes on a cook's tour of Milan and samples the city's finest epicurean delights, like the risotto al salto, "a thin pancake formed of leftover risotto, fried to parchment crispness on one side then flipped (or jumped — salto) to the second side in a swirl of hot butter, the preferred cooking fat of Lombardy."... More

Mimi Sheraton on Chodorow VS Bruni

We mentioned last week that restauranteur Jeffrey Chodorow declared war on the New York Times food section after their food critic Frank Bruni panned Chodorow's new steakhouse Kobe Club and gave it a starless review; former NYT and Time Magazine food critic Mimi Sheraton recently weighed in on the debacle for Slate: Chodorow, of course, was an idiot to have run such an ad. For one thing, it does worlds of good for the critic, indicating he or she has a strong following, and that his or her words can make or break a dining place—in itself a measure of proven dependability. Chodorow questions Bruni's credentials, but one might also ask: What qualifies Chodorow to be a restaurateur? Simply having... More

All the News That's Fit to Eat, Part 1

For those of us who derive great pleasure from eating and talking about it, today's New York Times is a veritable smorgasboard, a feast for our stomachs, brains and heart. Let's start with Mimi Sheraton's cover story on eating in Rome in the Travel section . I've met Mimi Sheraton on a few occasions, even broken bread with her, and she has been nasty and unpleasant towards me each time. Why I don't know. That said, she often writes very well and very passionately about the lusty pleasures so many of us derive from life around the table. I still have a yellowed clipping of the piece she wrote for New York Magazine about New Orleans food many, many years... More

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