Here's the thing about Manischewitz coffee cake: it tastes just like Little Debbie coffee cake. It has the same buttery bottom layer, the same crumbly cinnamon topping. It is the definition of a foodie's guiltiest indulgence. Guilty because it's a far cry from a sophisticated soufflé or a trendy tiramisu—it comes from a box and requires only two eggs and a splash of water to make. Indulgent because it is, after all, cake. When deciding which kosher for Passover boxed mix to prepare for this week's Mixed Review, I choose Manischewitz over the alternative, Streit's, for the simple reason that it was 37 years older. (Manischewitz was founded in 1888, Streit's in 1925.) Aside from their age, the two...
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