"The first time I read about Spalding's Doughnuts, all I could think was these sound remarkably like Georgie's," Ed told me. Georgie's was a personal favorite of Ed's—a Harlem doughnut shop that's been closed for about a decade now. Irregularly shaped, airy, full of stretchy nooks and crannies and an unusually thick, crisp crust, these are the kind of doughnuts that are the aesthetic opposite of the perfectly round factory-stamped shape of the major chains.
'Lexington' on Serious Eats
Lexington Barbecue, which has been serving oak-smoked pork shoulder in various forms since the 1960s, offers its barbecue in sandwich form for less than $4. If you intend to get serious about it, ask for yours with "extra brown" (bits of meat cut from the edges of the shoulder). Lexington's chewy, smoky chopped pork, crowned with a scoop of sweet and tart barbecue slaw and stuffed into a factory-made hamburger bun, is a classic handful of American barbecue.
This isn't a sauce you'd baste on grilled chicken, but rather, as the name implies, it's used as a dip or topping. Tasted alone, it's harsh with a strong bite of vinegar and a heat that starts to border on excessive. Introduce it to pile of pulled pork though, and it's a match made in barbecue heaven.
Is North Carolina barbecue as great as everyone says it is? Or, once you remove the nostalgia, is it (gulp) dry, overcooked, and disappointing? I cruised down I-81, eager to revisit one of my favorite barbecue regions to figure out the deal with Lexington style 'cue.
In the good state of North Carolina, barbecue means chopped pork. No fatty ribs or spice-rubbed brisket—just the whole hog or shoulder (depending on the region) slowly smoked overnight. For your viewing pleasure, here's a look at some classic barbecue joints in the state, including Wilber's, Lexington, and Allen and Son.
Digging into the A Hamburger Today mailbag finds this awesome piece of correspondence from Drew H. in Virginia. He writes: Dear AHT, I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed the site over the last few years. It's been wonderful—I've...