'LES' on Serious Eats

First Look: Seattle's Via Tribunali Opens in NYC

The Neapolitan pizza juggernaut just won't quit. Coming just a few weeks after Don Antonio's opening, Via Tribunali opened its doors on Monday for dinner. A mini chain, Via Tribunali comes to NYC by way of Seattle, where owner Michael McConnell opened the first location in 2004. There are now four VTs in Seattle and one in Portland, Oregon. This is the first in NYC, and it opens along with next-door neighbor Caffe Vita, McConnell's coffee shop mini chain. More

Daily Slice: Pala, Lower East Side, NYC

Pala on Allen Street riffs on Roman-style pizzas sold by the foot and served on pizza peels. The funghi e salsiccia pie ($17) we tried was plenty for two, generously topped with fior di latte and rich fennel-spiked sausage. The pizza was well-salted and had a delicate hit of hot pepper. The woodsy flavor of the mushrooms seeped into the crust, imbuing it with mushroomyness. My only complaint was that the crust will only appeal to bread lovers who want their pizza soft and pillowy. For me, it was too close to doughy. More

Rampage at Isabella's Oven

Eater After Isabella's Oven announced that it would close (but possibly reopen in another location), Curbed brought word that someone there had taken a sledgehammer to the joint following a dispute with the landlord. Now, Eater has pix of the aftermath—and it's not pretty. The space is now utterly unusable as-is—though it looks like at least the foundation of pizza oven is still intact (you can see it in the photo above in the upper right-hand corner). There's probably not much hope in using the location as a pizzeria again, as there was virtually no room for seating inside.... More

Pizza on the Eater Blog

Two pizza-related things of note on Eater as of late. 1.) Today, we find out that Wylie Dufresne's WD-50 serves "pizza pebbles." Some back story, if you're unfamiliar: Dufresne is one of them molecular gastronomist types, which means he does crazy stuff with food—like making pizza pebbles. As described by Adam Roberts, they are "... made by mixing variously powdered pizza components—tomato powder, parmesan powder—with a garlic-infused oil. The resulting pebbles are presented with dried slivers of shitake on a pepperoni emulsion." Roberts has a photo of the things, but the photo ain't so pretty.... More

DJ Bubbles Wishes You a Happy New Year

Isabella's Oven, 365 Grand Street, New York NY 10002 (near Essex Street; map); 212-529-5206 It's been a while since the Bubbster has had much to say about anything on this fair weblog. I've been astray for some time now, but I've found my way home. Although, I must say, it doesn't feel much like home in recent weeks. Isabella's Oven causing such an uproar on the site because of a recent dip in quality certainly isn't music to my ears. And who wants to respond to comments in CAPS from Jeff B when he suggests that Two Boots is... More

Isabella's Oven: Going Downhill

Update (1/28/2009): Isabella's Oven Closed Until Further Notice Memo to Jeff B.: DUDE. Chill the frak out. We get the point. You think Isabella's Oven sucks. Did we need the drive-by on every post about the place? That said, you bring up a good point. Here's the deal ...... More

A Saturday Pizza Tour

From left: A Di Fara half-plain, half-artichoke pie; pizza-makers at Franny's; an Isabella's Oven Margherita D.O.C.; Una Pizza Napoletana's marinara pie. Last year around this time Slice/Serious Eats contributed to Pim Techamuanvivit's Menu for Hope charity raffle. Our giveaway was a guided pizza tour for four. Well, the winners—Anthony Kinik and Michelle Marek of Montreal food blog An Endless Banquet—finally made us make good on our prize. (It took them almost a year because they live in Montreal and I secretly think they were waiting for the loonie to beat the dollar before making a trip to the U.S.)... More

Isabella's Oven, The DJ Bubbles Drive-By

Update (1/28/2009): Isabella's Oven Closed Until Further Notice Ladies and gents, the always opinionated DJ Bubbles has checked in once again. Because I never know when he's going to strike, I'd been unofficially calling his stunning dispatches "drive-bys." Now I'm formalizing it. Here's the DJ Bubbles Drive-By on Isabella's Oven. It's a must-read, so do click through the jump. —Adam Words by DJ Bubbles | It has been said before that having a great meal can be a transcendent experience. When someone has poured all his soul, energy, and being into something so divine, you can taste it in every... More

Isabella's Oven: One Great Pizza on a Saturday Night

Update (1/28/2009): Isabella's Oven Closed Until Further Notice photographs courtesy Isabella's Oven I had a truly great pizza in a new pizza place on Saturday, and though I'm not going to tell you that I have seen pizza's future and its name is Isabella's Oven, the way Jon Landau did a zillion years ago when he saw Springsteen live and declared that he had seen rock and roll's future, I will say I had a pie that would easily make a New York City top ten list and maybe a national one as well. Now in New York, when you... More

Openings: Five New Pizza Joints for Your Amusement

A round-up in New York magazine lists. Stop me if think that you've heard this one before: Solo Pizza Address: 27 Avenue B, New York NY 10009 (East Village, near 3rd Street) Phone: 212-420-7656 Chickie Pig’s Address: 121 Ludlow Street, New York NY 10002 (LES, near Rivington) Phone: 212-254-9972 URL: chickiepigs.com With a name like Chickie Pig's, this place better be damn good. Mosco Pizza Address: 105 1/2 Mosco Street, New York NY 10013 Phone: 212-227-9150 Not for Tourists notes: "Good pizza in New York is pretty run-of-the-mill. You can get it anywhere. Anywhere, that is, except Chinatown. I’m not... More

Openings: Russo's

My Serious Eats colleague Lia just sent this via cellphone picture-messaging. Russo's, new pizzeria on Ave B between 3rd and 4th, opening in two weeks-ish. Nice huge interior, brick oven. There's another place opening between 2nd and 3rd called Solo Pizza, regular oven. Thanks, Lia! If you have a tip you want to send Slice, email me at adam@sliceny.com.... More

Openings: Chickie Pig's Brick Oven Pizza

Friend of Slice Lia just sent me the photo above. Says the tipster: "What a dumbass name. Their pizza better be damn good!" My thoughts exactly. CHICKIE PIG'S BRICK OVEN PIZZERIA & RESTAURANT Address: On Ludlow Street, between Rivington and Delancey, Lower East Side.... More

Pizzaiolo Michael Ayoub in the 'Brooklyn Paper'

The previous post reminds me that I was negligent in blogging this item about Cronkite and Fornino owner Michael Ayoub from the March 3 issue of the Brooklyn Paper: Sitting at a table in his award-winning Williamsburg restaurant, Fornino, Ayoub was rightfully proud to be discussing his growing pizza empire. To call Fornino, or its newborn Manhattan sibling Cronkite, a “pizzeria” is a mighty understatement. What he offers—gourmet pies with homegrown and high-end ingredients, including homemade mozzarella and three types of specialty flour—is about as far from a plain old slice as you can get.... More

Cronkite in the 'Village Voice'

Robert Sietsema of the Village Voice hits Cronkite, the new pizzeria from Fornino owner Michael Ayoub. Sietsema notes the fact that the crowd is sparse despite the phenomenal pies: There's nothing wrong with the pizzas, though, which come in two sizes: a 10-inch individual pie, and a 16-inch regular pie that easily feeds two. Made in a gas-fired brick oven, the crust is similar to what one finds in Central Italy: thinner than the standard American pie, with crunchy areas competing with squishier ones. Our favorite that first evening was Tartufo, the most expensive pie on the menu ($36/$51).... More

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