'John T Edge' on Serious Eats

Cook the Book: Revelatory Caramel Cake

Adapted by D.C. chef Ann Cashion, this Revelatory Caramel Cake from strong>The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook, this caramel cake is similar in flavor to an angel food cake but with a much denser crumb. Once baked and cooled, it can be iced and filled any which way you please. But being a caramel cake, this one is really all about the icing. It's actually more like a candy coating. More

Cook the Book: Sweet Tea Lemon Chess Pie

Updating this classic in a uniquely Southern way is this Sweet Tea Lemon Chess Pie from Mississippi chef and author Martha Foose. For The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook she's spun the classic chess pie filling with an ingenious combination of lemon and sweet tea. Adding these two simple components give the plain pie a refreshingly sweet quality, reminiscent of a cool glass of sweet tea on a humid afternoon. More

Collard Green and White Bean Gratin

This recipe for Collard Green and White Bean Gratin comes from Frank Stitt, a chef who introduced Alabama to French and Italian flavors through his four Birmingham restaurants. This dish combines Southern collards and ham-hocks with Italian Parmigiano, cannellini beans, rosemary, and olive oil into a gratin that is the best of both worlds. More

Southern Foodways' Mississippi Delta Hot Tamales

Among the more curious dishes in The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook are these Mississippi Delta Hot Tamales. Tamales are traditionally Mexican and the tale of how they made their way into the canon of Southern cooking more than a century ago is a truly American one. There are many takes on the story, but they all have something to do with Mexican laborers migrating north from Texas to pick cotton. There they shared their corn husk-wrapped snacks with African-American laborers and the tradition of the Mississippi Delta tamale was born. More

Cook the Book: Fried Chicken with New Orleans Confetti

Austin Leslie is known in New Orleans as the "Godfather of Fried Chicken." He died tragically in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, but his legacy lives on through his signature dish, Fried Chicken with New Orleans Confetti. Adapted from The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook, it's easy to see why Austin's chicken is the gold standard of New Orleans chicken. It includes the unlikely addition of evaporated milk, which adds a bit of sweetness and an incredible crunch once fried. More

Cook the Book: 'The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook'

Whether it's recipes from a church or synagogue group, the Junior League, or a collection of family recipes, these tiny volumes oftentimes offer evocative recipes that capture a real sense of place. It's those spiral bound cookbooks that acted as the inspiration for The Southern Foodways Alliance Cookbook. Compiled by the John T. Edge, Southern food writer extraordinaire and director of the Southern Foodways Alliance and author-oral historian Sara Roahan, this modern spiral bound classic delves into the world of Southern foodways with recipes, stories, and traditions from those who cook and eat south of the Mason-Dixon line. Enter to win a copy here. More

Video: John T. Edge on Nightline on 'The Soul of Soul Food'

Southern Foodways Alliance director and friend of Serious Eats John T. Edge was on Nightline's Platelist program over the weekend talking about the importance of food in the South. "Our food matters, our food comes with a really distinctive, sometimes troubling, but ultimately triumphant backstory. That's what makes it matter to me," he says in between visits to Bertha's Kitchen and Scott's BBQ, both in South Carolina. "By learning the backstory, we can bridge race and class gaps...there is hope in barbecue." Watch the segment, after the jump. More

'The Best Thing I Ever Ate' Pizza Episode

The Pizza Rosa from Pizzeria Bianco is the best (pizza) thing that food writer John T. Edge has even eaten. Philip G. (aka Prairie) calls our attention to the Food Network's Best Thing I Ever Ate episode on pizza, breaking down the list for us: Ted Allen: Graziella's, Brooklyn, Pizza Arugula and Parmesan Duff Goldman: Gino's East, Chicago, Sausage-Patty Style Marc Summers: Osteria, Philadelphia Margherita pizza Tyler Florence: Serious Pie, Seattle, chanterelle and truffle pizza... More

John T. Edge Is Answering Questions

Photograph by Yvonne Boyd Food writer extraordinaire and Southern Foodways Alliance director John T. Edge is answering questions this week on the New York Times Diner's Journal blog. He's already answered a handful, including one about Mary B's biscuits: Q: We keep Mary B’s buttermilk biscuits in the freezer. Is (or was) there a real “Mary B”? — John KaneJohn T. Edge replies: There was a real Mary B, the wife of the founder of the company. He started out making dumplings in Bagdad, Florida. Biscuits came later. You can leave questions for the man here.... More

Has Anyone Had Sister Schubert's Rolls or Marshall's Biscuits?

God bless my friend John T. Edge for bringing to light the fact that serious eaters in the South often serve frozen biscuits to their families and guests. We've raved about the upscale frozen biscuit maker, Callie's, but I have to admit that I did not know about Sister Schubert's yeast dinner rolls or Marshall's biscuits before John T.'s story. My guess is I've been served them many times and didn't even know it. What about my fellow serious eaters? Have you bought or been served Sister Sadie's or Marshall's? Are they seriously delicious? Related: Biscuit Basics... More

Southern Belly: Chitlin Market (and Trailer), Virginia-D.C. Area

Editor's note: Occasionally what looks at first glance to be a conventional guidebook transcends the genre in surprising ways. John T. Edge's Southern Belly is just such a read, which is why I'm pleased that he has allowed us to excerpt selected items from it on Serious Eats, where they appear every other week. --Ed Levine http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1565125479/serieats-20">By John T. Edge | Shauna Anderson wants to be your chitlin vendor of choice. "Selling chitlins is all about trust," she tells me when I visit the suburban Cape Cod home she has transformed into a combination restaurant and commissary for chitlin deliveries. "Chitlins are very personal. A good cook knows that clean chitlins are where it all starts," she says of the... More

Southern Belly: Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville

Editor's note: Occasionally what looks at first glance to be a conventional guidebook transcends the genre in surprising ways. John T. Edge's Southern Belly is just such a read, which is why I'm pleased that he has allowed us to excerpt selected items from it on Serious Eats, where they appear every other week. —Ed Levine By John T. Edge | In fine-dining circles, tales of temperamental French chefs are rife. Neophytes who fiddle with the foie gras or diddle with the duck confit are sure to stir the ire of the guy in the white coat and pleated tocque outfit. But who would expect such an outburst of temper from a guy in a flour-streaked apron, the proprietor of... More

Southern Belly: Price's Chicken Coop in Charlotte, North Carolina

Editor's note: Occasionally what looks at first glance to be a conventional guidebook transcends the genre in surprising ways. John T. Edge's Southern Belly is just such a read, which is why I'm pleased that he has allowed us to excerpt selected items from it on Serious Eats, where they appear every other week. —Ed Levine By John T. Edge | Thinly battered, well-salted deep-fried chicken, dumped unceremoniously from cook baskets and served with hushpuppies, coleslaw, a marshmallowy white bread roll, and a jumble of so-called Tater Rounds. That's what you get when you quit the more well-traveled and gentrified precincts of Charlotte's Uptown neighborhood for this South End favorite, in business since 1948 as a chicken market, since 1952... More

Cadiz, Kentucky: Doug Freeman, Ham Man

Editor's note: Occasionally what looks at first glance to be a conventional guidebook transcends the genre in surprising ways. John T. Edge's Southern Belly is just such a read, which is why I'm pleased that he has allowed us to excerpt selected items from it on Serious Eats, where they appear every other week. —Ed Levine By John T. Edge | The Italians wouldn't put up with this. Imagine some governmental agency coming between the good citizens of Rome and their supply of prosciutto di Parma. And you can be sure that the French would raise a ruckus if Parisians were cut off from their artisanal sources for saucisson sec. But for the most part, we Southerners just knuckled under... More

Theodore, Alabama: Bayley's

Editor's note: Occasionally what looks at first glance to be a conventional guidebook transcends the genre in surprising ways. John T. Edge's Southern Belly is just such a read. Yes, you can use it like the discerning guide to eating in the South it most assuredly is. But Southern Belly is also a book filled with so much heart, soul, and good writing that it demands to be read cover to cover like some John Grisham page-turner. Edge blessedly doesn't shy away from discussions of race and class, and the result is a narrative that's compellingly thoughtful and real. That's why I'm pleased that John T. has allowed us to excerpt selected items from Southern Belly in our Eating Out... More

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