In Rajasthan, as in so many parts of India, variety makes the meal. Thalis rule, and the large silver plate will often have several little portions of stews made from legumes, vegetables, and grains; bread; a sweet treat; and occasionally a meat dish, such as mutton or chicken.
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If you read a lot of Indian novels, you'll know that people sometimes use "veg" and "nonveg" as shorthand for "tame" and "sexy," respectively. But as we ate our way across Mumbai, through Rajasthan, and into central India, we discovered that when it came to food, the opposite was true. The vegetarian fare we ate was so much better, so much fresher, and so much more interesting than the nonvegetarian offerings. Here are some highlights from a month of eating around India: chaat, pakoras, samosas, papad, and more.