oston has no shortage of Irish pubs, and every one of them peddles a plate of fried fish that leaves something to be desired. Either the batter is heavy or gummy or peels away from the fillets like soggy skin off of a piece of chicken, or the fillets are so poorly drained that the coating is almost juicy with grease. But at Matt Murphy's Pub you get a twist-tied newspaper bundle, the thick layers of paper cleverly blotting the fish and chips dry. The batter itself is pretty sheer, but it offers surprisingly substantial crunch, and does so without obscuring the delicate flavor of the fish itself. And the spuds are just what Irish chips should be. More