'Incanto' on Serious Eats

In Defense of Chef Chris Cosentino's Foie Gras

Incanto’s corzetti dish. Photograph by Zach Brooks Eat Me Daily reports that chef Chris Cosentino of San Francisco's Incanto recently received a video and letter from anti-foie gras protesters, urging him to stop his signature culinary move: animal organs. In response, the restaurant put together a 3,000-word piece called Shock & Foie, which defends foie gras, one of the few debates in the food word that is so "controversial, emotional, and fraught with moral peril." Serious Eater Zach Brooks was just in the Bay Area and dined at Incanto: "As somebody who ate there last week, I can honestly say (putting all morality aside, of course) it would be a crime against stomachs everywhere if Cosentino were to never... More

Wish We Were There: Head to Tail Dinner in SF

A head-to-tail dinner thrown at San Francisco's Incanto by chef Chris Cosentino was documented in glorious multimedia detail on Hungry Magazine by Michael Harlan Turkell. The children of Fergus Henderson (the original head-to-tail chef) are popping up at restaurants all over Europe and the U.S., and, from our vantage point, that is indeed a good thing.... More

The New House Specialty: Tap Water

The SF Chronicle's Carol Ness reports on one of the area's newest trends: "At a small but growing number of sustainably inclined Bay Area restaurants, bottled water has become as much of an outcast as farmed salmon and out-of-season tomatoes. Instead of bottled water, diners now are served free carafes of -- gasp! -- tap water. It's filtered and comes still or sparkling, fizzed up by a soda-fountain-style carbonating machine." Incanto's been serving tap for years but Chez Panisse used to go through 24,000 bottles of Italian water, an ironic choice for a pioneer of sustainability to make. They investigated using locally made sparkling waters but found them too carbonated to go with their food; eventually they purchased a $400... More

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