'Houston's' on Serious Eats

Houston's Doesn't Suck: What's Your Favorite Slightly Fancy Chain Restaurant?

I was out with a couple of food writer friends a couple of weeks ago at a fancy-pants Italian restaurant when first one and then the other began to rhapsodize about the Houston's in Washington, D.C.'s tony Georgetown neighborhood. "That restaurant is really good," said one. "You're right," the other, a respected restaurant critic, replied. "Houston's is a really good restaurant." "If it's so good," I asked, "why haven't you ever reviewed or even written about it?" My friend hesitated before stammering, "I would have if a new Houston's would open up." A punt of an answer if I ever heard one. I quickly changed the subject. Let's face it. Chain restaurants in big cities like New York, Chicago,... More

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