Andre Christopher, chef of Chicago’s new Grocery Bistro, is a man of many contradictions—a recent vegetarian convert who serves and cooks meat, and a guy who serves dinner for dessert and dessert for dinner. And, though it’s intended as a savory appetizer, his latest creation—a seared molten lobe of foie gras coated with bits of Heath candy bar, swimming in Venezuelan chocolate and strawberry compote—would be just as good at the end of the meal. I’ve met many a chef who has joked that you can serve foie gras, much like bacon, with pretty much anything and it’ll taste good. And as one who’s recently had a chocolate foie milkshake and crispy pork in foie gravy, I’d say that...
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