The first hint you're in for something special at Gatlin's is when Mary Gatlin—mother of Greg Gatlin, the man in charge of the pit—leans over to you and recommends you try the dirty rice. And man, it's good. Hot, musky, riddled with chopped chicken liver and giblets, it's served with a smile but eats like a punch in the mouth. It only goes up from there.
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When I'm eating pulled pork, the first thing I examine is the texture. Is the pork shredded to bits? Will those lame, thin shreds meld together into a mushy heap in my mouth? Alternatively, are there enormous chunks? Even mouth-tender, I don't want to be eating pieces of chop on my sandwich. For me, Gaitlin's pulled pork came down perfectly in the middle.