Take out the toothpick and hold on tight, as it's challenging to dip the sandwich into the small bowl of jus. But it's worth the effort, as the gravy is beefy and slightly peppery and helps meld together all of the sandwich's contents into manageable bites, with the pungent flavors of the brie and mustard punching through and providing pleasure.
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The components of the French Dip ($12) at Iris Takeaway don't quite take off until you dress them in jus, but once you do, you're on your way to a satisfying sandwich.
There are a lot of poor French dips in this world, but a place that hasn't changed one iota since it was remodeled—in 1969—sn't getting by on its looks. The Wedgwood stands on the quality of its food (burgers ground in-house and the like); and on a menu lacking modern excitement, old-school French dip satisfies a craving you didn't know you had.