Last Wednesday, I was at the Union Square Greenmarket when I was waylaid by Andrew Carmellini, the chef-partner at A Voce. "Hey, Ed. Can you give us a hand with our stuff?" I said sure and loaded the four boxes and two bags of produce into a cab along with Carmellini and two of the cooks at the restaurant. We took the cab to 27th and Park, and then we schlepped the boxes one block to the restaurant. By this time, it was 11:45 a.m. and A Voce was about to open for lunch. When in A Voce, or should I say Rome, I said to myself, so I decided to have a bowl of pasta. Although Carmellini first became...
Continue reading »
I had never been in a restaurant the very evening the New York Times rendered its verdict, but last night I found myself at Esca waiting for Bruni (instead of Godot). At 7 p.m I was dining with an old friend I hadn't seen in 30 years, and I don't know what she made of the parade of people coming to our table desperately seeking some inkling of what Chairman Bruni might say. I had to tell them I had no knowledge, that the number of stars Bruni is about to bestow on a restaurant is a closely held bit of information that is the closest thing the New York Times has to a state secret. First Simon, the managing...
Continue reading »
Happy July 4th from everyone here at Serious Eats. I want to apologize for being absent these last nine days. I've been working 18 hours a day finishing the cookbook I'm writing with Dave Pasternack, the chef at Esca, the Italian seafood restaurant in New York's theater district. The book is called The Young Man and the Sea, and it is coming out next spring. I'll be posting recipes from the book in the coming days and months....
Continue reading »