'Edward Behr' on Serious Eats
There are countless liquids to braise in, but never before have we come across one that uses sour beer. This Carbonade à la Gueuze from Edward Behr's The Art of Eating Cookbook is a traditional Belgian beef dish that employs tart, bracing geuze or young lambic. If you're familiar with sipping these tart, puckery brews you can probably imagine the complexity that they lend to a beef stew, an intriguing background of sourness that's offset by the addition of a bit of sugar just before serving.
Swordfish is not a fish that needs to be treated with a gentle hand. It's firm, steaky flesh and strong flavors can stand up to virtually anything you throw at it. In fact, not too many other fish in the sea could stand up to the classically Sicilian Pesce Spada alla Stemperata or Swordfish with Olives, Celery, Garlic, Vinegar, and Mint. Edward Behr adapted this recipe for The Art of Eating Cookbook and it's full of those big, punchy elements that swordfish thrives on: vinegar, capers, onions, garlic, and raisins.
The gratin has the ability to elevate even the most humble of vegetables, even the oft overlooked turnip. This Turnip Gratin from Edward Behr's The Art of Eating Cookbook smothers sweet, thinly sliced turnips in a very special béchamel. Instead of the standard that's always rich but often a little bland, this version calls for a slow cooked béchamel that's infused with onion, clove, bay leaf, and ham.
For this Sautéed Chicken with Tomatoes and Olives, the chicken is browned then left to simmer with a sauce of white wine, onions, and tomatoes that cooks down to a remarkably complex gravy. Rendered lardons and olives are thrown in at the last minute for bursts of big, salty flavor.
This recipe for Beet Salad with Anchovies from The Art of Eating Cookbook comes from a book of traditional Provençal dishes, and is one that's certainly stood the test of time. Sweetly roasted beets with pungent bits of anchovy dressed with a bright vinaigrette, this is a dish that's simple to prepare but complex and truly delicious on the plate.
To celebrate The Art of Eating magazine's twenty-fifth year, Edward Behr has curated a cookbook of his most beloved recipes. The Art of Eating Cookbook is a book of traditional recipes, both French and Italian, each dish complete with well-researched notes from Behr about technique, place, and significance. We'll be cooking from it all week! Enter to win a copy here.