Editor’s Note: Serious Eats correspondent Carey Jones, eating her way around Italy, will be reporting back from Rome, Bologna, Tuscany, and Puglia. I hadn’t planned on writing about gelato in Bologna—I figured Robyn had covered that one. In fact, I intended to just eat my way through her list when in town. But then my friend Oscar, a lifelong Bologna resident with forty-odd years of gelato-eating under his belt, asked where I planned to try. I rattled off a few gelateria names. He nodded sagely. “Those are good. But I know a better one.” What was it called? Oscar waved his hand dismissively. “I don’t know names.” I offered him my map, but that too was shooed away. “I don’t...
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