Last week, I issued a challenge to Tony Maws, the chef at Craigie on Main in Cambridge: serve a multi-course tasting menu to myself and my meat-eating father, without letting him catch on that there is no meat in his food. The whole goal was to prove to him—a hardcore meat eater—that food can be every bit as diverse, flavorful, and satisfying whether it's got meat in it or not. More

My dad is what you'd call a meatatarian. He's always loved all things meaty, the fattier the better. Aged rib eye steaks and medium-rare prime rib covered in compound butter. Foie gras seared until crisp with a liquid custard center. Pork belly confit'ed in its own fat, served deep fried and crispy. Slabs of fat-laced tuna belly. Grilled hamachi collar bones. Potatoes cooked in goose fat. Peking duck with crispy skin, and anything served with bacon. You get the idea. Why am I telling you this? Because here is my goal: I'm going to get my dad to eat an entirely vegan meal without even noticing it. More

To eat at Craigie on Main is to witness a chef (Tony Maws) at the top of his game. As the waiters recite the composition of each dish, the ingredient lists may seem unlikely (pork heart and sea urchin) or precious (foam, really?) or unfamiliar (yuzu kosho). But on the plate, it all makes sense, every bite; whimsically inventive dishes seem natural and focused. It's like watching a juggler with seven balls in the air—the more that's tossed in, the more difficult it is to keep a rhythm, to present a coherent show. But Maws nails it. More