'Cooper's' on Serious Eats

Cooper's Historic Bar-B-Que Pit in Llano, Texas

A Texas native, Washington Post Food editor Joe Yonan told me that Llano is the home of real 'cue. As the backseat navigator on our road trip, I admittedly pointed us down a roundabout path instead of the more direct I-10W highway, to conveniently wind up in Llano at lunchtime. Cooper's Old-Time Pit Bar-B-Que is the town's landmark barbecue joint where an outdoor oak grill—the length of an SUV—slow-cooks pork chops, sausage, whole chickens, beef ribs, whole chicken, and of course, brisket. The closest thing I'd ever seen to a cowboy was in front of me in line, pointing to a rack of ribs, which a Cooper's grillmaster then sawed up and plopped onto a red plastic cafeteria-like tray.... More

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