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A Pizza Snob's Approach To Toppings

Slice J. Kenji López-Alt 107 comments

As a writer for the people, I often try and suppress my inner pizza snob. I try and pretend that all pies are created equal, and that there is goodness to everything on a crust. Sometimes I even manage to convince myself. After all, if tens of thousands of people enjoy eating buffalo chicken pizza, there's got to be something good about it that I'm missing, right? Well today, I'm letting diplomacy take a little breather and laying out a few of my hard and fast ground rules about pizza toppings. More

Top This: How to Make Shaved Asparagus Pizza

Slice Adam Kuban 17 comments

Today on Slice, the debut of a new column ... Top This, in which we focus on a pizza topping you might not have thought of or have wondered how to work onto your pies. The first installment, shaved asparagus, as found on the Bird's Nest pizza at Jim Lahey's pizzeria, Co. More

Video: Jim 'No-Knead Bread' Lahey Reviews Domino's New-Recipe Pizza

Slice Adam Kuban 26 comments

Josh "Mister Cutlets" Ozersky brings a Domino's new-recipe pizza to noted baker and pizza-maker Jim Lahey (of no-knead bread fame) for a review at Lahey's pizzeria, Company. "There is no improvement whatsoever," Lahey says. "Give me back the old Domino's any effing day." More

Co. Company's Meatball Pizza One of Sam Sifton's Faves

Slice Adam Kuban Post a comment

[Photograph: Adam Kuban] Recently appointed New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton today unleashes the 11 best bites he has sampled so far in his new capacity at the paper. Co. Company makes the list: The Meatball Pizza at Co.: Jim Lahey's much debated Chelsea pizzeria is devoted almost to a fault to the excellence of its dough, as Frank Bruni sagely pointed out in his one-star review of the restaurant in the spring. But in recent months, Mr. Lahey's been dialing in his toppings and the use of his insanely hot oven; he's now putting out pies that... More

Dear Slice: WTF, Co.?

Slice Adam Kuban 19 comments

[Photograph: Adam Kuban] Adam,I am a pizza fanatic from New Jersey and follow your blog religiously. I have one thing that I feel you should mention, however. On December 10, I went to Co. in New York for my pizza pilgrimage. I was set, stoked, and ready to get some awesome pizza. I had even called a few days earlier to make sure they would be serving during dinner hours and the site didn't indicate otherwise. However, after over two hours of traveling and getting to New York, they turned me away due to a "private party."WTF?! How can... More

'Time Out New York' 100 Best Things to Eat 2009

Slice Adam Kuban 2 comments

Time Out New York's got a nice year-end wrap of the 100 best things to eat in New York City. Pizza, of course, is on list. Three pizzas at three different pizzerias make the cut, according to TONY: the capocollo pizza at Bed-Stuy's Saraghina, the clam pie at Staten Island's Salvatore of Soho, and the Popeye pie at Co. Company.... More

Co. Company Now Using Wood

Slice Adam Kuban Post a comment

[Photographs: log wagon, jurek d.; Jim Lahey, Adam Kuban] I just learned from Ed Levine here that Co. Company has made the move from gas-oven cooking (with some wood for accent) to all wood-fired cooking. Co. Company 230 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10001 (at 24th; map) 212-243-1105; co-pane.com... More

Dear Slice: 'Barring Di Fara, Where Should I Go for Pizza on My NYC Visit?'

Slice Adam Kuban 17 comments

Clicking in to the Slice inbox today, another question regarding an upcoming NYC pizza itinerary. I love these questions! --The Mgmt. Adam and the Slice Crew,I will be making my first visit to New York City in a few weeks, and I don't think it would be a proper visit if I left without trying some New York pizza. With that said, I have looked over your reviews and suggestions in the past, and with my limited time and rather packed schedule I just don't think I will be able to make Di Fara work with its seemingly rather high... More

Jim Lahey Pontificates on Pizza

Slice Adam Kuban 7 comments

[Photograph: Adam Kuban] Noted no-knead breadman and Co. Company founder Jim Lahey discourses on pizza as he sees it (even lapsing into the third person) on The Atlantic Food Channel: I sought to open Co., to create this organic place. What I mean is, I don't ask my kitchen staff to manipulate ingredients to fit some pre-exisiting ideal of how a pizza should look. We don't place each piece of cheese perfectly on a pie--where it lands, it lands. Our menu tells guests: "Our Pies are Not Always Round." It's a joke but it isn't. People expect pies to... More

Chowhounder Has 'Best Pizza Ever!' at Co. Company

Slice Adam Kuban 6 comments

[Photograph: Adam Kuban] After not eating there for some time, we decided to hit Co. last night, and had our best Co. meal ever. We shared the radicchio salad -- a wonderfully simple salad of radicchio. sliced mushrooms and silky mozzarella in a balsamic vinaigrette -- and their current special pizza, which they call a "charcuterie pizza": sauerkraut, bechamel, three kinds of cheeses, three kinds of German sausage, and dijon mustard. This pizza was extraordinary -- a cross between the best pizza I've ever had and the best hot dog I've ever had. (Ignore that last reference if it's... More

Fake Restaurant Girl Interviews Jim Lahey

Slice Adam Kuban 1 comment

First some backstory here, in case you don't follow the ins and outs of the NYC food media scene. A few months ago, it appeared that New York Daily News food critic Danyelle "Restaurant Girl" Freeman had started tweeting. Then it came out that someone was faking it. Then the faker revealed himself to be Adam Robb of The Life Vicarious. (That's a sample of his handiwork above.) Lawyers were eventually called in, but through it all, Robb has continued his parody tweets (now with disclaimer!) along with a blog written by Fake Restaurant Girl called The Gourmet Glossary.... More

'Grub Street' Does Crowd Check on Crop of Recent Pizzeria Newbies

Slice Adam Kuban Post a comment

Grub Street checks in on the recent gaggle of new pizzerias to see which is busiest (and presumably best—or at least most hyped) on a Friday night between 8 and 9 p.m. From least- to most-crowded: Tonda, Veloce, Pizza Mezzaluna, Spunto, Kesté, San Marzano, and Co. Company.... More

Alan Richman Names Top 25 Pizzas in the U.S.

Slice Adam Kuban 108 comments

Chicago Upstart Great Lake Has Country's Best Pizza Alan Richman (left) and Lucali proprietor-pizzaiolo Mark Iacono (right) hold a copy of the June 2009 issue of "GQ" in front of Iacono's Lucali (the No. 2 pizza in the U.S.) at press event celebrating the story's May 19 publication. The issue contains Richman's "American Pie," a list of the top 25 pizzerias in the country. In the June issue of GQ, food writer extraordinaire Alan Richman ranks the top 25 pizzas in the U.S. after visiting what he considers the top 10 pizza cities in the country. The story is much... More

Rumors: Co. Company Pizza to Open Downtown Location?

Slice Adam Kuban 2 comments

Per the Eater blog: A trusted tipster tells us that a friend was approached last week for a position at a new branch of Jim Lahey's fanatically adored Chelsea pizza place Co.. She tells us it's "somewhere downtown" but can't provide further intel. Related Co. Company Pizza Soft Opening Photo Gallery First Taste: A Preview of Jim Lahey's Co. Company Pizza... More

Two's a Trend: Chowhounders Sink Teeth into Co. Company

Slice Adam Kuban 1 comment

Two threads have been started in the last 30 hours on Chowhound dissing Co. Company. Co. Pizza—Too Tarte: "These pizzas are more like gallettes or, at the risk of further pissing off Lahey, pissaladieres." Co. Not So Hot (Longish): "The pizza was strictly ordinary.... The previous week I had a way better pizza, handmade with the freshest ingredients, with exquisite personal service by the owner and his family in, of all places, Germany."... More

Co. Company's Jim Lahey Responds to 'New York Times' One-Star Review

Slice Adam Kuban 15 comments

Co. Company's Jim Lahey (above) is not happy about his one-star review in the New York Times. He tells the New York Observer: "We've been open only 90 days," he said. "We have not had a chance to even breathe in 90 days. What the fuck are we being reviewed by the New York Times for, you know, 90 days into being open? It makes no sense."If I knew we were going to be under the microscope, I would have possibly treated the opening of the restaurant a lot differently," he continued. "I didn't open this restaurant to get... More

New York Times' Frank Bruni on Co. Company

Slice Adam Kuban 11 comments

The paper's restaurant critic gives one star to Jim Lahey's Co. Company pizzeria. He mostly likes it but has some criticism that's fairly accurate: But he could indeed improve upon his pizzas somewhat. Although the best of them are outstanding and all pack the pleasures of a serious crust with serious blisters—Mr. Lahey uses an oven that generates heat in excess of 900 degrees—he hasn’t yet nailed the toppings. It’s as if he’s too focused on, and maybe too confident about, what lies beneath. A pizzaiolo-come-lately, he needs to sweat the cheese and the rest of it a little... More

The 'New Yorker' on Co. Company

Slice Adam Kuban 1 comment

While everyone else is talking about the four new pizzerias that opened in the last ten days, the New Yorker looks at Co. Company in this week's issue. For the most part I share writer Lila Byock's take on the pizza there. She loves the Boscaiola pie (mushroom, onion, sausage, chile peppers) and eschews the Santo pie ("what's with all the béchamel?") that many other (wrong-headed) critics and food bloggers have praised. But she sets up a bit of a straw man, creating some sort of schism between two supposed sects of pizza-lovers: There are the ascetics, who demand... More

Dear Slice: 'Kesté Better Than Co. Company'

Slice Adam Kuban 5 comments

Clicking in to the Slice inbox today, we've got ... Adam, Went to Kesté last night and had a very, very satisfying meal. The place was packed, but we were able to get a table for four after less than 30 minutes. It seemed like every Italian-speaking New Yorker was eating there. Anyway, after having gone to Co. twice, most recently on Saturday, I think I can say Kesté is far better--in terms of value, authenticity (though I realize that's not quite what Jim Lahey is after), and taste. Despite being a bona fide pizza fiend, I could not finish... More

Frank Bruni's Pizza Moment with Co. and Motorino

Slice Adam Kuban 11 comments

On the New York Times's Diner's Journal food blog today, Frank Bruni has a pizza moment, saying that everyone lately has been talking about the crusty, saucy, cheesy stuff. He then goes on to talk about, yes, Co. and Motorino. Geesh, now even I am officially sick of hearing about Co., so I'm not going quote extensively from Bruni's post. Suffice it to say that he digs the Popeye pie there: "one of the most memorable things I've eaten in months."... More

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