Welcoming, low-key, warm; it's a formula that seems to define a burgeoning class of pizzeria, of the wood-fired, Neapolitan, up-and-coming Brooklyn variety. And it looks great. But all too often, it simply doesn't add up to very good food. So, while I may have found Brooklyn Central charming, I wasn't exactly holding my breath for great pizza. Boy, was I off the mark.