It's only taken me half a century or so to figure out that when it comes to food—crazy good, delicious food—less really is more. The late, great jazz composer and pianist Thelonious Monk used to say (I am paraphrasing here), "It's not just the notes you play (that make great music), it's the notes you don't play." The very first time I heard Monk I knew that he was right about music. I just could never admit to myself that it might be true about food as well. See, I grew up the youngest of four brothers, and lordy, we all liked to eat. And though my parents were died-in-the-wool leftists, my mother must have thought there was value in...
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