Can a company like Amy's Kitchen—known for its organic, preservative-free products—compete in the candy bar market? We put them to the test.
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If tasting 'regular' frozen pizza requires reduced expectations, then tasting frozen 'cheeze' pizzas might be termed an exercise in complete and utter futility. So, let's cut to the chase. What's the point?
[Photographs: Maggie Hoffman] First, the good news. This pizza from Amy's beat last week's freezer-case choice by a mile. It came of the oven golden and bubbling, with nice bits of cheese that got crisp on the edge of the crust, sort of like an Asiago bagel. The copious cheese was nicely stringy and creamy, and the pesto was surprisingly tasty, much better than most I've gotten jarred (though maybe not quite as good as the fresh stuff we make from our balcony plants). The pesto adds a much-needed dose of garlic and oil to each slice. There was...
We cruised the freezer aisle to taste a bunch of widely available brands of veggie burgers to find the most edible. No cows were harmed in this tasting—but many soybeans were.
Food & Wine is actually my guilty pleasure food glossy. I know it's style- and star-driven, but it's a very well put together magazine whose editors execute their vision very well. That said, the "Taste Tests" in the front of the book almost always wimp out. I'm sure the reason is that they don't want to piss off any present or future advertisers, but the result for me is that I don't believe a word that's said in them. They tasted frozen pizzas in the April 2007 issue and reported on three, Amy's, American Flatbread, and Stouffer's French Bread Cheese Pizza. In a shocking development, they liked them all. If you need further proof that Food & Wine wimps out...