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Sourdough Doesn't Always Mean 'Good'

20080627-sourdo.jpg

Photograph by Robyn Lee

Via Jason Kottke, here's Nelson Minar's take on sourdough bread:

It's sour because in the US, particularly in San Francisco, it's hard to buy good bread. About 75% of the decent bread in my grocery store, both fresh baked and industrial, is sourdough. Consumers think sourdough is shorthand for quality. It's not. In fact, sourdough is seldom the appropriate bread for a meal. It makes lousy sandwiches, lousy breakfast, it clashes with cheese. It's good with creamy soups, and it's good plain with butter. But the premium bakeries all push sourdough, and so sourdough becomes synonymous with "good", when it's not.

So, serious eaters: What do you think of sourdough? Personally, I side with Minar.

49 Comments:

Wow. Nelson, then Jason, now Serious Eats. Talk about a slow link day. Hmmm, does anyone really believe it's "hard to buy good bread" in the San Francisco Bay Area? Here's a thought: Maybe Nelson just isn't very good at buying bread.

I have been to plenty of bakeries while I've lived here and, frankly, I've never felt I've had sourdough "pushed" on me. And not in restaurants. Not even in crappy restaurants. I will tell you one place that you will find mostly sourdough -- SFO. Nelson, are you doing most of your shopping at the airport? Mystery solved...

are you kidding me? sourdough RULES. after living in california for years and now living in texas I wish I could buy some seriously good sourdough. I dream about that shit.

It makes great sandwiches. It makes great toast. It makes great everything. Go ahead and push it on me. I'll eat the crap out of it.

While sourdough is tasty in some applications, it isn't appropriate for everything. That said, I'd suggest heading to one of the numerous bakeries in and around the SF Bay Area, instead of your supermarket bakery. I don't see sourdough pushed en masse except at Safeway or Raley's.

I completely disagree. I love sourdough bread. It goes great with tart cheeses like cheddar. I think it makes great sandwiches. For breakfast, it's fantastic with honey. Some of the best French breads are sour dough based. And French breads are the best in the world. Nelson should stick to Wonder bread and kaiser rolls.

I think that sourdough has its place, but that it isn't kept in it. When I lived in Virginia, my local Harris Teeter sold 'baguettes', which were sour dough. I can remember far too many cheese and wine evenings, bread puddings and other events where sourdough was the feature. It doesn't stay in its place in a cheese and wine event, and it sure does make for an odd bread pudding.

I find it terribly deceiving when places sell "baguettes" that are actually sourdough.

I like sourdough! But I have yet to come across a sourdough baguette that wasn't marked as sourdough..that's odd.

A good artisanal ``sourdough'' is, or should be, the sign of a slow rise, natural yeasts, bread that is literally alive instead of the industrial product of a chemical lab. There are other breads for other occasions - pain de mie, baguettes, foccaccia - but natural-starter bread is the alpha and omega.

There are people who prefer grape juice to wine, too...

I love sour bread, but I don't really love sourdough. The sour bread that I like is the northern European kind of rye bread (rugbrød, roggebrood, whatever you want to call it), which is sour but has an underlying sweetness to it as well, which goes very nicely with cheese, smoked fish, etc. In contrast, sourdough is often a bit harsh, I find. But then, I've never been to San Francisco, and it's possible that the sourdough I've tried hasn't been of a very high quality.

@roboppy: One of the stands at my local farmers markets that sells bread pretty much ONLY sells sourdough, but not everything is labeled as such.

While I agree that it's hard to find "good" bread in the US without doing some leg work and going out of my way. I disagree that consumers think sourdough is synomous with quality. It's good for somethings, like foccacia is good for somethings and not for others. It's like anything else, there are good examples and not so good.

For me, I'd have to agree that it's good with butter and soups, creamy or otherwise. I like a toasty sourdough sandwich with a little dijon and mayo, arugula, sliced tomato, bacon or good salty ham, medium fried egg, and plenty of black pepper. It's also good bread to panini. So I disagree on the sandwich thing.

I think people identify sourdough with SF and apparenty it's because 75% of the bread in those grocery stores IS sourdough, LOL.

I just wanted to point out "eat the crap out if it", that's funny. Otherwise I enjoy sourdough bread when its fresh, by itself. It doesn't lend itself to application, IMHO.

It's the phrase "grocery store" that gives it away. You don't find good bread in a commercial grocery. Period. End of story. You might find okay bread, even acceptable on a good day - but it's not good bread and never will be good bread. Preservatives and additives and the crap they add to make the bread shelf stable do not make good bread.

"Sourdough" masks the flavors of the additives so that the grocery can charge a ridiculous amount for "artisan" bread. It's not true sourdough. It's some chemically derived sourdough substitute. There is no starter that's been lovingly fed, no careful monitoring of the rise, no thought put into crust and crumb - just chemical shortcuts.

Those who make bread know that good bread is inexpensive to make, only takes a few ingredients, and the best on the day its made. Good bread tastes so wonderful that, sometimes, even buttering it feels like sacrilege. Good bread is chewy and crackly on the outside, moist and tender on the inside, and tastes of the acidity of yeast and the delicate nuttiness of wheat. It doesn't need fancy fillers or additives to be good. It's great on its own.

Down with grocery store bread! Up with real bread!

This is a strange editorial comment to put it mildly. It seems to be based on the author's conceit that "Consumers think sourdough is shorthand for quality".

Who thinks sourdough dough means quality?

Having lived in the Bay Area for about 10 years, people just happen to enjoy it. It's a regional taste. People eat a lot of bagels out here in NY. I've never heard anyone assume that bagels mean quality.

I love sourdough. I think it is so much better than many other types of bread. And I live in a country where there are plenty of good types of bread!

The same can be said for ciabatta. Most ciabatta, I have found, is just fluffy and nasty. I feel like I'm eating sofa stuffing with some of the ciabatta sandwiches I've had.

I am one of those weird people who LOVES sourdough toast with jam and butter on it. I know, it's funky, but it's yummy.

I agree that it can ruin a meal, though. I've definitely had that experience. Give me a good, well-rounded baguette or a soft Italian and I am a happy woman.

I *love* sourdough too. i get sad that good sourdough is hard to find on the east coast. it is my preferred bread for breakfast toast and sandwiches!

At the risk of being kind of an ass to my own hometown, I will say that years ago I actually heard people say - repeatedly - while shopping or whatever, "Get the sourdough. It's better." I think for these people, it's not so much quality as it was the perception of buying something fancy or high-end or whatever. Although Ciabatta seemed to have displaced it around Y2K.

I agree that it is good with creamy soups and plain butter, but other than those two applications...DO NOT WANT.

I love sourdough, but I've been disappointed many times here in the Midwest when something is labeled as sourdough or a restaurant offers it as a bread option and it's just plain white bread. Sourdough tastes sour, people! Get it right!

I used to eat sourdough because I thought that's what grownups do. Then I decided being a grownup wasn't that important and I've been much happier ever since.

I absolutely love sourdough and I think it's good anytime, at any meal, I happen to think it's fabulous for breakfast and makes a fabulous sandwich. Unfortunately, good SOURdough is almost impossible to find here in my area. :(

Nelson can take a baguette and shove it where the sun doesn't shine! :P

Okay, I think that some people are misunderstanding the situation here. As a native San Franciscan, I definitely think that the SF grocery stores do push sourdough a bit. However, they are, at least in my memory, brought daily to Safeway and other grocery stores from the local bakeries, so they are/were better than the packaged bread because it was fresh, instead of packaged. You could always get a fresh loaf of sourdough in SF if not other breads.

I agree with the bagel comment that wthrop made--it's a regional specialty and a regional taste, but not something that's necessarily "posh" or "quality."

Also there's something called "sweet sourdough" that I always liked--it's not sour, closer to a baugette taste but can come in a regular loaf shape. My dad makes the BEST corned beef hash with egg sandwiches with this.

I am not a fan of the sourdough and make a point of rewarding restaurants who DON'T serve it by default in all their bread baskets. Much prefer a soft focaccia-type bread with some olive oil and balsamic...

The same could be said about rye bread, bagels or challah. There's good and there's bad and there's God-awful. Let' see Wonder Bread or sourdough? Gee what an effing dilemma!
@southern-bella; A baguette won't work for that, take it from me.

I am from Toronto (not exactly a bread capital), when I moved down here to the SF bay area, I went into bread withdrawal. I don't like sourdough bread, not the taste, not the texture. My work cafeteria by default shove the grill chicken sandwich in an Acme sourdough bun (I always have to ask them for something else), as do most restaurant sandwiches. They use it as a selling point, it has the opposite affect on me. i.e. the sausage stand at the ferry terminal market, offers either potato or sourdough bun. I don't like either (though if I have a real wurst craving I will settle for potato), so I often don't buy it.
At the supermarket, you get 80 (okay slight exaggeration) varieties of sourdough but no rye bread (not even one)! It's either sourdough or white bread loaf. :( And YES bakeries (think it's a bay area thing) have a habit of not labelling their baguettes & "French bread" as sourdough!!! That is so annoying. I now only trust bakery that actually label their sourdough products, even then I interrogate them first before buying a baguette.

Ugh...no? Bad sourdough exists PROPORTIONATELY to bad bread, in general. Yeah, in SF, you'll find it on every corner, but that's a different story completely. And to my belief, the best breads always taste better plain (no will one agree with me, but that is my belief), so that doesn't discount sourdough for me. I do like regular baguettes and wheat better, but I acknowledge that a good sourdough can be delicious, and there are just SO many good ones! I live near Berkeley, and there's Acme, Semifreddi's, La Brea (via Lucky), La Farine, Grace...

It's Friday and I think a lot of folks on this link need a drink.

Do I live in the same bay area???? Hard to find good bread???

I think, as others have said, sourdough and other breads each have their own time and place.

I happen to think sourdough makes great breakfasts and love the "toad in the hole" with sourdough best. I also think with the right cheese it makes great grilled cheese.

Try living in small town Ohio before complaining about finding good bread!

First of all, I take a lot of offense at the "good bread being particularly hard to find in SF" comment...wha? As other have mentioned, there is plenty of great bread to be found here. Maybe there is a lot of sourdough being "pushed" (including the airport of course) but jeez, that doesn't mean there's a dearth of any other kind of bread. And personally I love sourdough, for the record :)

All I've learned over the years in NY, PA, and IN (Pittsburgh and Bloomington, if you really want to know specifics) is that if you want to find good bread you've got to hit everywhere. Leave no stone unturned. Sometimes that challah you love from Bakery X is spot on every time, but those loaves at Bakery Y can be mind-numbingly insane in comparison.

I found the same to be true of sourdough when I went looking, same with baguettes and other varieties. Besides, in most places you have no shortage of options! Well, so long as independent bakeries and whatnot are thriving. I should find a few around Bloomington, come to think of it.

Besides, if you want fun in Pittsburgh grab a friend with a car, see if anyone else wants to go compare some bakeries, and say you're buying $5 worth of samples for everyone at each. I did it for my recital and, truth be told, it was a hell of an afternoon. You end up all over Pittsburgh, from the Italian bakery all the way in Monroeville close to the old Media Play and Outback, the cheap, homey places in Shadyside, the various offerings in Squirrel Hill...crazy stuff.

Then you follow it up with a beer run, of course. Take your pick. ;)

sourdough is the most perfect bread for anything! toasted with butter,hollowed out with soup inside ,sandwich fixin's or anything else! i also go to to the warf and get a loaf anytime i am in SF. it always makes me happy.

One of my favorite memories, growing up on the California coast, was a meal I made of a half loaf of sourdough bread, a half a cracked crab and a stick of butter. That was when I knew that I was a foodie, through and through.

Sourdough can be really great bread, especially when it has good crust and good crumb. Some of the sourness can get kind of overpowering, but there is little to compare with garlic bread made from sourdough and a fresh bowl of chili.

This person is crazy! Sourdough is perfect for breakfast and can't be substituted in a BLT.

The argument should have been that most "sourdough" in restaurants is just white bread with a fancy name. There is no mistaking a piece of real sourdough bread, and it is sublime.

To echo the above: no good bread in the bay? Are you high? I've missed nothing more since moving to NY as the bread from back home, particularly the sourdough. I finally found a decent loaf at the Union Square GM and ate half of it in one sitting.

Hell, I grew up eating french toast made with sourdough. If you love it, you get it. I wouldn't eat rye bread on a bet. Doesn't mean I'm going to tell someone who likes it that they have no taste and don't know anything about good bread. And like someone upthread said, not everything labeled "sourdough" is actually sourdough.

I feel sorry for folks who don't like sourdough - I've been turning myself upside down and inside out trying to develop a starter with just the right tang - I've got a loaf proofing in the kitchen, and just can't wait to get the thing in the oven and find out what it will be like. It has been so much fun, feeding these little starters, and watching them become more and more vigorous. I agree with gb944 about crab, butter, and sourdough bread, but like a big glug of cocktail sauce, or lacking that, my own counterfeit made with a good organic catsup and Beaver company horseradish (made in Beaverton, Oregon) on top - with a cold beer. I prefer Dungeness crab, my husband is partial to snow crab. Sourdough makes it even better than it is by itself! Oh, and a sourdough bread, chopped olive, and cream cheese sandwich (haven't had one in ten years or so, but, yum!) And, sourdough bread makes lovely toast, with a good apricot jam. So, lighten up - some of us actually love it that we can find sourdough all over the place in SF, we just wish it was as good in other locales.

Listen folks... I'm very good friends with the fine folks over at www.sandwichreport.com
So if anyone knows sandwiches trust me... its me?
That was an awkward sentence. Anywho, I digress...
Sourdough is perfectly acceptable for sandwiches. In fact it can be downright delicious.
The key to a good sandwich using sourdough is a) start with a loaf that has a soft spongy interior with a crusty exterior and b) use solid ingredients that stand up to the distinct flavor of the bread. Using bad ingredients with sourdough would be like pairing a prime cut new york steak with a glass of champagne fresh out of a box!

I offer this:
-Large slices of fine quality sourdough.
-Slices of medium to sharp cheddar.
-Sliced Roast Beef
-Mustard
-Horseradish Mayo
-Red Onion
-Fresh Sliced Tomatoes
-A few bitter greens (Arugula or Radicchio)

And Voila! You have a sourdough sandwich fit for a king.

I'm going to assume that the problem with this statement is one of terminology, rather than ignorance. I believe the author has an issue with the flavor and versatilty of San Francisco sourdough, rather than sourdough breads in general.

'Sourdough' breads are simply breads made with natural ferments rather than from commercial yeasts. They can range from very sour tasting to not at all sour, depending on the ratio of lactic acid (mild-flavored) to acetic acid (sour) producing bacteria in the culture. Breads made with natural ferments tend to have more complex flavor profiles and texture and keep longer than straight yeasted breads.

'San Francisco sourdough' is made using a culture containing a bacterium (Lactobacillus sanfrancisco, natch) that is dominant in the local microflora of the Bay Area, and is a strong producer of acetic acid.

As for the idea that sourdough breads are "sour because in the US, particularly in San Francisco, it's hard to buy good bread", I have no idea what that is supposed to mean.

sourdough is excellent in almost every application! SF sourdough is famous because of their particular wild yeast. back in the early days of bread, before commercial processes were developed for baker's and instant yeast, every bread was sourdough because the only way to grow the yeast culture was through capturing wild yeast. SF had a particularly nice strain, and that's why they have such a wonderful bread culture there. anyone who complains that sourdough isn't appropriate for certain cheeses or wines really needs to check themselves -- a lot of these cheeses were developed to be paired with sourdough, the only bread available at the time anywhere in the world.

I absoluty love sourdough - for anything - including French Toast and Bread Pudding. It makes FABULOUS sandwiches. I was born and raised in Oakland and my family owned a big Italian restaurant - so I grew up on sourdough. Sourdough is always my first choice. On the other hand, I absolutely hate rye bread. Yuk.

Not that crazy about sourdough - I would never seek it out - but if it's good and it's fresh I enjoy it.

A severely underrepresented bread is salt-rising bread. It does not have that many "applications" (lol) but it makes the best toast in the world.

ok....thanks all....now i'm freakin starvin......for some nice sourdough bread.....guess i gotta go to publix an get some.....i dont think i'd like sourdough bread dipped in olive oil.....but it makes a great stuffing for a turkey !!!

I don't really care for bread, especially dark breads. The only kind of bread that I find tolerable has been baked within a few hours. That said, I actually miss dearly sour dough bread. The only place I've been able to find sour dough bread regularly in metro Cleveland is the craptastic bread Trader Joe sells. No thanks. I love sour dough bread too much. I can get rye everywhere here, but I can't stand rye.

For a month every summer for 20 years, my mother and I would vacation in SF to escape the heat. I ate crab sandwiches on sour dough bread every single day with a bowl of soup. What bliss!

Sour dough bread works with everything, if you like it a lot. :P It's the only bread I truly enjoy with rare roast beef, along with Best Foods mayo, alfalfa sprouts, cucumbers, and a dab of yellow mustard. Yum! It's great with lox or even with banana and honey sandwiches. It's wonderful in bread pudding too!

IT'S HARD TO GET GOOD BREAD IN THE SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA???????

surely, SURELY you jest. i have lived in new york for 12 years and i STILL miss the wonderful bread in the bay area, especially berkeley -- semi freddi's, acme, grace, and the cheese board, to name just a few of the absolutely world class bread makers there. new york's got a lot of catching up to do, imho.

i don't much care for the touristy kind of sour sourdough bread, but the "levain" that is used to make the baguettes at the cheeseboard and semi freddi's produces some incomparably delicious baguettes.

There are various degrees of "sour" in sourdough breads. SF Sourdough is defined by a tartness that a French sourdough doesn't have. Starters that are rye based tend to be much more bitter than starters made with wheat. All too often in commercial bakeries all across the world, when a baker makes sourdough he/she is also using a flavour enhancer that is intended to up the "tang factor". As the proud caretaker of several home grown starters, I have a few that are very sour but I also have a few that make breads that have such a subtle tang that you would never know it was a sourdough based bread. It is all about the starter...

SF sourdough isn't ideal for everything but just because you can get a passable (not great, but passable) loaf at every supermarket on the west coast doesn't mean that it has ruined every other kind of bread. I live in NYC and don't think that the lack of good bread in local markets and bakeries is because of all the rye bread baked in the area. I think his anger is really misplaced on this one. Of course, I also have no idea who he is or why I should care about his opinion so whatever.....

I live in Darwin, Australia, and work in a bakery and I've got to say, sourdough is my favourite type of bread that we make there. Actually it is my favourite type of anything we make there. You know a bread is good when a seventeen year old girl chooses it over a brownie or a cream bun!

i love sourdough... actually I didn't like it when I first tried it, too tangy for my kiddy tastebuds at the time. But, now that my pallate has evolved, the ones I've had recently are not even as tangy as I remember the original being... they just taste like regular white bread.

I don't know how this rates with Bay Area dwellers, but I liked the Boudin sandwiches I had the last time I was in SF.

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