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What's the Best Mac and Cheese Cheese?

20080303macandcheese.jpg

Photograph from jslander on Flickr

The humble mac and cheese—that staple of American wholesomeness—is experiencing somewhat of a renaissance as of late. From authoritative recipes to a survey of the 20 best places to get mac and cheese in New York City, to a segment on Good Morning America featuring cheese, bacon, garlic, noodles, Emeril Lagasse, and a well-meaning North Carolinian, everything's coming up cheesy noodles in 2008.

Then again, did the dish ever go out of style? As has been mentioned here before, the New York Times stirred up controversy two years ago by publishing a widely popular recipe that flagrantly snubbed béchamel lovers everywhere. Still, a fundamental question goes unanswered: what are the best cheeses to use for this classic dish?

The restaurant S'mac in New York skirts the issue by offering no fewer than ten varieties. There's the Cajun for instance, which is made with cheddar and pepper jack cheeses, andouille sausage, green pepper, onions, celery, garlic, and Cajun seasoning. Or take the La Mancha, made with Spanish manchego along with fennel and onions.

That Times piece quotes Rob Kaufelt from Murray's, who recommends a "30-50-20 blend of Swiss Gruyère, young Irish cheddar, and Parmigiano-Reggiano." I myself would probably switch the ratios of the Gruyère and cheddar, since I prefer the sweet nuttiness of the former to the tangy bite of the latter. You probably also don't specifically need an Irish cheddar; I'm sure any good cheddar would do. In fact, most good recipes I see combine these three cheeses in roughly this ratio.

But what about American (processed) cheese? I much prefer the depth of flavor offered by the fancier choices above, but no discussion of mac and cheese would be complete without a tip of the hat to Velveeta and her cousins. Because these cheeses contain added emulsifiers, any recipe that uses them will attain a heavenly creaminess without requiring a béchamel.

So what about you? What's your favorite cheese to use in a mac and cheese? And as a side question: Bacon or no?

Recipes

Martha Stewart's Three-Cheese Mac and Cheese
Ina Garten's Mac and Cheese
Mark Bittman's Baked Vegetarian Mac and Cheese
Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Mac and Cheese

View other entries from Serious Cheese.

38 Comments:

65% Sharp Cheddar, 25% Monterey Jack, 10% Parmesan

As much as I love bacon and cheese, leave bacon out of my Mac please!

Velveeta all the way. And my mom always puts large canned whole tomatoes on the top before baking it - the acidity from the tomatoes cuts through the overwhelming velveetyness.

Velveeta works pretty well. Usually start with bechamel base and add in a bunch of velveeta.

Cheddar, Gruyere (or Fontina), and Paremesean (usually around 40/40/20) for the roux/sauce, then a mix of 50/50 cheddar/parmesean for the topping. Why use bread crumbs when you can use more cheese.

As for bacon, why not. Bacon makes everything better. If you have moral opposition to swine and are coming to my house...well, 1) You're coming to the wrong house, but 2) My solution would probably be to make two 9x13 trays, one with and one without.

And, I am finally happy with my recipe from Cook's Illustrated Cover and Bake. They have a number of similar recipes in their mags, website, and books, but this one is the best for me, and it's definitely a bechamel base.

and eventually i'll add spell-checker as well

I just use whatever cheese I have on hand. My mom always saved all the "rinds" of cheese to make mac and cheese. always a bechemel sauce though, and I'm sorry I cant abide the flavor or texture of processed cheese foods. (YUK!!!)

I'm fine with just about any cheese combo, including the evil Velveeta, béchamel or not, so long as there are NO BREADCRUMBS!!!

As for the combination of cheese mixture goes, I like to use at least 50% of a good Sharp Cheddar and the other half any combo of "fromages" that I have available in the fridge. On that note though I do like to balance this half with a Ricotta and a nice Gruyere or let's say a Monterey and a Smoked Gouda. Play around it's not Rocket Science.Have fun! As for the Bacon, well it goes great with almost anything in my book. Since the topic of percentages has come up try a 50/50 combo of mac-n-cheese and chili the next time the "Leftover Gods" bestow these gifts upon you.

Last night I used sharp cheddar and monterey jack. I made the skillet mac and cheese from the new Cook's Country issue. It came out really good and it was very easy to put together. I like sharper cheeses. Last night I used less than the recipe asked for and it came out very cheesy and delicious.

Combination of Gruyere, Cheddar and Brie. Equal portions. Mmm...

Bechamel/Parmesan is how I often like the sauce. Simplistic, maybe. No bacon. Sometimes stewed tomatoes on the side to compliment the tang. Added some shredded Manouri on top last timed and baked it. Good.

Manchego is a great idea. Will try it.

Cheddar, Mozzarella, Parmesan, and two slices of American cheese, melted into a bechamel - the perfect Mac and Cheese Mornay sauce!

50% Sharp Cheddar and 50% Monterey Jack - got my recipe from The New Best Recipe and it's the best I've had.

I make a white sauce and throw in cheddar and gruyere (if I have it) and a bit of velveeta just to appease the husband. If he makes it there's nothing to the sauce but milk and a shizzload of velveeta. Bleh.

Our usual porcine addition is home smoked sausage- his dad gets fresh sausage from a local butcher then smokes it for us. It is heavenly!

And I love panko on top. That crunch compliments the creamy sauce and soft noodles perfectly. I'd have to hurl if there were tomatoes any where near my mac and cheese. Just can't do it.

In addition to cheddar, Velveeta, and possibly a domestic Gruyere, lately I've been adding some Butterkase.
http://tinyurl.com/2nn2x5

My mac'n'cheese is sauteed onion and cheddar in the bechamel on the inside, and then it must be sprinkle cheese (from the grren can) on top. And the noodles must be pasta shells. It's right tasty!

My current preferred mac and cheese recipe is located here:

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/102738

Very creamy, with just enough punch from the chipotle. (Do not let the amount of sauce that it makes scare you, just go with it.) Making your own bread crumbs is essential. This recipe uses only cheddar and we usually get some Irish cheddar from Trader Joe's. However, on reading the comments above, I think we will add some gruyere the next time we make it for a little change!

Fontina and taleggio are excellent additions to the above, and yes to bacon! After a recent trip to Ireland, I will come away confidently report I had the best macaroni and cheese I've ever experienced at the Farmgate Restaurant above the English Market in Cork city. It was voluptuous, soft elbows with creamy Irish cheddar and thick-sliced Irish bacon. I'm going into waves of bliss as we speak.

If it's macaroni and it's got cheese (or some rendering thereof) on it, I'll probably eat it. Reared on the Blue Box, no snob am I. However, I have found that a little hit of blue can add pleasant dimension - a boost of tang and salt, with perhaps a touch of sweet.

cheddar,gruyere, parmesan. And no bacon. Want it plain and simple.

Ideal: government cheese; failing that Velveeta, both combined with Extra Sharp cheddar and skinned knuckles.

I make a bechamel, a chopped chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, and then toss in whatever cheeses I have in the cheese drawer. These usually include (not always all at the same time mind you) cheddar, pepper jack, smoke gouda, gruyere, comte, mozzarella, and/or grana padano. I like to top mine with fresh breadcrumbs mixed with parmesan or grana padano and butter drizzled on top.

I'll throw in crumbled sausage or veggies if I want to make it a one pot casserole type meal but if it's a side dish, just cheese for me please!

M&C is my favorite method of using up all the little random odds n' ends of cheese languishing in my fridge. If necessary, I'll use cream cheese or plain yogurt as a binder, and adjust the spices to suit whatever the creation is trying to be. I honestly don't find the idea of binding myself to a M&C recipe appealing - it ruins the fun of reinventing it every time I make it. I realize that's a luxury, however - if I had other people to cook for besides myself, they would probably want some consistency.

One thing I always love to do, however, is to add some corn and peas to counterbalance all the salty, cheesy numminess :-).

Sharp cheddar for flavor, Monterey Jack for creaminess, and a little bit of American for its stabilizing power (I get a chunk of it at the deli, usually Land-o-Lakes, not Kraft Singles). My current favorite recipe also uses evaporated milk, which has additional stabilizing power -- net result, it's the only homemade mac & cheese I've ever made that actually stayed creamy in the oven without destabilizing or getting grainy or totally seizing up.

But: I also make half boxes of Kraft Dinner (three cheese & shells) quite often. Diverse tastes.

Aha, here's the recipe I like. I forgot about the Parm in the breadcrumbs!

I love using DeCecco orecchiette. Those little ears soak up the sauce, don't cost much more than elbow and their concave sides acts like bowls for the cheese sauce.
You do need a little bechamel to melt the sharp cheddar evenly & keep it from clumping on the macaroni. I use 1/4 cup of flour with an equal amount of melted unsalted butter & cook it til it's smooth & nutty smelling.
Gotta add 1 tbsp. dijon, a pinch of white sichuan pepper & salt & stir that in well. Then slowly add the milk (for a total of 24-32 ounces depending on how thick you like it, I used 20 oz. of nonfat milk yesterday & it was great), whisking it in over low heat until the sauce is smooth & creamy.
When the sauce is smooth & thick, I add 16 oz. grated sharp cheddar (cracker barrel is fine, this is not the place to use an artisan cheddar from Britain) stirring in a little at a time into the bechamel sauce, keeping it over low heat, until the cheese is fully incorporated & fondue-like.
Then I add the cooked pasta to the cheese sauce pot (about 12 oz dry), stir it well & throw it into a gratin dish on a foil-lined baking sheet (for easy clean-up) to bake at 400 for 30 minutes. The pasta itself is cooked beforehand with a smashed clove of garlic in the salted water, 2 minutes less than than the package instructions recommend so that it can release some of its starch into the sauce while baking.
Sometimes I'll add a cup of ricotta (if I'm short on milk like last night) & melt that into the bechamel before adding the cheddar, about 2 oz. of freshly grated parmigiano, 2 oz of pecorino and a tablespoon or 2 of creme fraiche. I chop up a few thin slices of prosciutto into thin dice & mix it into the dish before baking it. When I go crazy, I add a Tbs. white truffle oil to the dish & stir it in just before baking.
I'm always conflicted about breadcrumbs but the hubby likes them so I do add a light sprinking of panko (or even Progresso breadcrumbs) with dollops of butter & a grinding of seasonings over the top of the dish after first grating an extra layer of cheddar over the casserole. If the breadcrumbs aren't as crisp after 30 minutes of baking as I'd like, I stick the dish under the broiler for a minute or so until they look good to me.
I made this last night (yummy!) & posting it here so I can remember what I did since it was impromptu & I was low on milk. Hope I didn't take up to much space :>)

I don't know what the best is, but my girlfriend and I made a Jamie Oliver recipe I think that used sharp white cheddar. It was quite delicious, especially with the addition of bacon!

Is anyone else though a sucker for a box of kraft macaroni and cheese every once in a while? I have to admit that I like it...I know....go ahead....shun me....

The New Cook

I start with a bechemel base. Then add Velveeta, Aged Gouda, and Pecorino. Mmmm...

I'm a sucker for the blue box every now and again.

I made Ina's mac n' cheese last night, minus the bacon and the blue cheese. It was good, but not as creamy as I'd like. Afterwards I started searching my cookbooks. Found one from Pam Anderson in The Perfect Recipe that I think I'll try next. She uses evaporated milk, egg, and milder cheese, cooks it for less time at a lower temperature -- and stirs during the baking time.

I will eat any mac & cheese, and have made it tons of different ways, but I made it with a rather odd combination once, Brie and Cheddar, cause that's what I had in the fridge, and it came out surprisingly well. Everyone wanted to know my recipe. Sadly, I didn't not write the proportions down.

My favorite combination is 2/3 medium cheddar, 1/3 smoked gouda - the gouda lends the creaminess of a processed cheese, and the bit of smoky flavor is terrific. My mom's preferred recipe is a four-cheese mac, with cheddar, gruyere, fontina, and parmigiano - a little higher-class, and very nice as well!

I know I'm late to chime in, but I just gotta say:
There's a great substitute for Velveeta which my wife calls "Chernoble cheese".
Merkt's port wine cheddar.

I've been using the Creamy Stovetop Macaroni and Cheese recipe from Cooking Light. It uses light cheddar and reduced fat cream cheese in a milk and flour slurry (instead of a roux based bechamel). It is surprisingly good, despite the "light" cheeses.

For baked mac and cheese I really like Giada's Baked Rigatoni with Fontina and Prosciutto . It's bechamel based and you can pretty easily swap in whatever cheeses and meats you like. I've had a lot of success using Havarti, actually.

best home made:
Light Cream, ( not Heavy, not Medium, not Half & Half )
while heating, whipping in coarsly grated 5 year old imported Holland Gouda ( $ 7.95 at Sams ), a bit of white Pepper, no salt needed, bits of sauteed Prosciutto, and then the al Dente cooked Ziti, all in buttered casserole topped with grated Tete de Moine 450F oven til brown

Macaroni and cheese is one of my all time favorites and something I would have to eat if I had 10 minutes or less to live. I've used numerous recipes, but always go back to my own version, which is a combination of recipes by Ina Garten, Martha Stewart, The New York Times, Cooks Illustrated and "ME". Cheese wise it's a combination of Extra Sharp Cheddar, Gruyere, Smoked Gouda, Fontina and Parmesan Reggiano. Sometimes I add in Canadian bacon, prosciutto or roasted red peppers for variety. In the end, it's all about comfort and "that specific person, place or thing" associated with this wonderful classic.

My MIL's mac and cheese - no bechamel saucing required (she can't cook otherwise, but this is to die for):

1. Butter a casserole dish (I use a square 2-quart Corningware dish)
2. Boil 2 cups macaroni (I like Barilla elbows because they have ridges)
3. Drain, do not rinse
4. Layer half the macaroni in the casserole, sprinkle with 1 cup shredded cheese. (I usually end up using Kraft or Kroger pre-shredded cheese but obviously it's better with better cheese. Sharp cheddar is my personal choice.)
5. Repeat layers.
6. Mix together (a 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup works well) 1 cup milk and 2 eggs. (My MIL's original directions also say that you can use evaporated milk to make it even richer, but I think that's sort of overkill. My husband tried to use Redi-Whip once...the results are better not described.)
7. Pour egg mixture over macaroni and cheese layers in casserole.
8. Sprinkle a little more cheese over the top. (I've never tried it with crumbs.)
9. Bake UNCOVERED at 325 for about 20 minutes.
10. Let stand for 5-10 minutes to set before serving.

Serves 4-6 as a main dish, maybe more as a side dish, but probably not more than 8 as written. If there's any left, it's as good if not better reheated in the microwave. Also very forgiving of the addition of diced ham, sliced hotdogs, vegetables, etc. Quick and so easy I have it memorized...great for busy weeknights.

I have a version that uses raclette, along with the classic items of pickled onion, dill pickle, and a little diced potatoe. Try it.

I'm in the predominately cheddar group w/ the rest being whatever I have on hand,including cream cheese. I'm in the bacon camp and I also like diced onion or jalepeno,cherry or grape tomatoes.The topping?I've hit on the devilish combo of 1/2 breadcumbs,1/2 CHEEZ-ITS ground up together in the food proceesor.And yes they're buttered.I dont make this too often since it can kill you.

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