Michael Ruhlman: 'Fear Not Salt and Fat'
America's fat problem: "I say unto you: Fat is good! Fat is necessary. Ask any chef. Fat does not make you fat, eating too much makes you fat! We aren’t filling our bodies with sodium because of the box of kosher salt we use to season our food, we’re doing it with all the processed food that’s loaded with hidden salt. And American cooks and American diners need to understand the differences."
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8 Comments:
I so agree with this. If you overdo eating any one thing, it can't be good for you, but your body needs salt, fat, carbs, protein. They aren't evil unless you make them evil by overindulging.
And I'd also argue that people are too hung up on the idea that a balanced diet needs to be balanced at every meal or every day. There's a reason your body is designed to store fat and nutrients. It takes quite a while for a vitamin deficiency to have an effect.
If you go back to hunter-gatherer days, people ate when there was food, and they ate the good stuff first. They didn't sit back and say, "ick, this meat is too fatty." And they didn't worry about whether they were eating balanced meals. Kill an animal today, gorge on meat for a while. Hunting not good? Go find some berries, eat those until they're gone. No food around? Live off the stored fat for a few days while you're looking for your next meal.
I'm not saying we should start eating like that, I'm just saying that obsessing about eating a balanced daily diet is probably not as important as the food charts would have you think. If you stuff yourself with steak one day, you don't have to balance that day by also consuming veggies, fruits, dairy, grains. Heck, eat nothing but steak one day, if it makes you happy.
If you try to balance that day, the only way to do it is to overeat. Instead, the next day have some pasta and sauce, or make yourself a lovely salad. If you're hungrier one day, eat more. Eat less on another day when you're not as hungry. As long as it all balances out over time, and you're healthy. and you're not missing any major categories of food, I think that should be fine. I'm not a doctor or nutritionist, but it just makes so much more sense to me than trying to balance a day's intake, like I'm gonna get rickets tomorrow if I don't.
dbcurrie at 12:43AM on 02/29/08
I have been saying this for years! I am a 53 year old woman who weighes 123 lbs give or take a few. I have weighed that amount for my entire adult life except when pregnant with one of my three children. I have always eaten butter, never used a sugar substitute, love to eat out at good restaurants and threw away my scale many years ago. I exercise regulary and pretty much eat (and drink) what I want BUT what I want to eat is pretty varied and includes a lot of vegetables and fruit. I also don't eat a lot of it and let my hunger tell me what to do. This took some work to learn in my twenties but eventually it became second nature. Being a cook helps as I know exactly what goes into the food I make! (and even my moderation sometimes is moderated and I feast!)
smallblondemom at 6:15AM on 02/29/08
A few years ago I realized that people who were healthy (and slim!) ate lots of vegetables and fruits, minimized the use of or avoided processed foods, exercised daily (often just walking or biking and other activities in the course of daily life) and were moderate in their habits. They didn't use low-fat this and no-fat that or artificial sweeteners or low-carb this or that. They ate everything; they just didn't eat everything daily.
I can verify that what Mr. Ruhlman says about salt is true. I have CHF and my cardiologist told me he wasn't concerned about the salt I used in cooking or at the table, but to watch out for processed foods. He didn't mention restaurant foods, though, and I've found the food at chain restaurants (fast food and sit-down restaurants) to be the worst. If I have to eat out all day, I'm guaranteed to have problems late that day and the next day.
I've also discovered that for daily meals, what I cook is far better than anything I can eat at a restaurant.
IndyGal at 9:01AM on 02/29/08
Amen, brother. Preach it!
sarahbeam at 9:53AM on 02/29/08
How refreshing to hear the voice(s) of reason! The diet business makes billions no matter what the trend du jour is, and yet people get fatter and fatter, and less and less healthy. Hello!
CookiePie at 10:28AM on 02/29/08
Mirrors the philosophy I've lived by for most of my adult life. I can't remember when I started saying that I'd rather be 10 lbs overweight but healthy and happy with what I eat (which I've been for about 20 years) instead of my perfect weight and miserable, deprived and annoyingly obsessive about it. My mantra:
Variety and Moderation.
(In all things, not just food. But most especially food!)
LoCo at 12:19PM on 02/29/08
Salt and fat....to use the words of Homer Simpson.....MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!!!
foodiegirl at 12:48PM on 02/29/08
While the amount of sodium (not just salt, but also MSG, baking powder, baking soda, etc., etc.) in processed foods is a serious problem, the fact remains that most adults should get no more than 2400mg of sodium per day, and no more than 1500mg per day if they're over 50. (See, for example, the article from The Mayo Clinic, which also points out that 77% of most people's sodium intake comes from processed foods.)
And it remains true that one teaspoon of table salt (two teaspoons of Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, one and a half teaspoons of Morton Kosher Salt) contains 2400mg of sodium. Did you make a recipe with a tablespoon of salt and eat a third of it? There's your limit right there. Add onto it the 500mg per cup of prepared "low sodium" chicken stock, 400mg of sodium per ounce in domestic "Parmesan" cheese, 250-400mg per slice of almost every commercial bread, 890mg of sodium per ounce of ham...well, it adds up fast, even if you largely avoid boxed foods.
Yes, I'm one of those who now has to avoid sodium because of medical restrictions (which came out of nowhere, so I had few warning signs), but it's a lot harder to "salt your food naturally," as Ruhlman recommends, when it's all but impossible to make standard recipes and still stay within USRDA requirements, much less any lower requirements that heart or hypertension patients may have.
Most of the recipes on here aren't so bad, if you don't eat them all yourself (of course). The recent entry for Kale, Onion, and Cheddar Frittata works out to about 1000mg of sodium for the entire recipe, so 250mg for a quarter of it is not bad at all (provided you don't add more cheddar cheese, or use more than 1/10 tsp of salt for the "couple pinches," or don't have 16 fl oz of milk with it for an extra 250mg of sodium). Blake Royer's recipe for Caesar Salad isn't so great, largely because he calls for (as the classic recipe would) 2-3 anchovies that come out to about 700mg of sodium each, and half a cup of parmesan (which comes to about 750mg of sodium for most domestic brands; real Parmigiano Reggiano has significantly less sodium). Add to that a "generous amount of salt" for the croutons, say 1/2 teaspoon, and the average for commercial breads, and you have a bowl of salad with about 4400mg of sodium in it. If you truly only eat one of the four servings of it, you only get 1100mg of sodium from it—but that's nearly half your USRDA in one meal's salad.
Most people will exceed that without even thinking about it. Soy sauce? 1100mg per tablespoon. Baking soda? 1260mg of sodium per teaspoon. I mentioned "low-sodium" chicken stock at 500mg per cup, or 2000mg per quart. Vacuum-packed tuna pouches? 700mg each. It goes on and on - chipotle peppers in adobo, canned tomatoes (one 14oz can usually has about 900mg of sodium!), canned beans and vegetables of any kind.
Did you brine the chicken? Was your chicken or pork "pre-brined" for you before you purchased it (check the label to see if it was "enhanced" with "chicken broth" or other stuff—if a 4oz serving of chicken has more than 70mg to 95mg of sodium, they pre-brined it, and most of them sold around here have 350mg of sodium or more per 4oz serving). How much bread did you eat with it? (Can't make bread without salt, and commercial bakers use more than you would because it keeps the bread from spoiling longer.) Anchovies? Pickles? "Fat-free" foods often contain more sodium than the real ones to make up for lost taste. (Egg Beaters contain twice as much sodium as real eggs!)
Sadly, it's not just about avoiding Big Macs or the Bloomin' Onion or the latest Big Fried Plate O'Crap With Cheese. Even if you want to cook for yourself, the sodium is hidden everywhere in your food. It is a real, significant, ongoing effort to eat under 2400mg of sodium per day. It is impossible if you eat out a lot, and it's not a lot easier if you cook "natural" foods for yourself, even if you never add salt to anything, even if you reduce the salt in recipes.
You can balance it out, of course. Some days I go over my restrictions, and I make up for it by staying well under the next day (or staying under the previous day, if I know I have to eat at some unknown place). I'm lucky that chocolate is still low in sodium, and luckier still that my particular health problems didn't come with fat restrictions, though I try to avoid the all-oil diet.
But this bit about "just cook naturally and you'll stay within the guidelines?" Untrue, and perhaps dangerous if you're not aware of it. Only you get to decide how much sodium you can or should eat, but you deserve to know that keeping within the current, well-established, peer-review sodium limits is almost impossible in today's United States food culture—even if you cook every meal you eat for yourself.
mdeatherage at 5:44PM on 02/29/08