Snapshots from Asia: Watermelon Seed Cracker…'Just WACK'

In Singapore, watermelon seed consumption is a predominantly Chinese affair. At wedding ceremonies the seeds are fertility symbols for the couple (representative of their family’s eager wishes), and at traditional Taoist three-day funerals the seeds are everywhere you look. Strangely enough, despite the Chinese love for symbolism there does not seem to be a significance for the watermelon seeds’ ubiquity at funerals.
In the past week, I’ve asked all the matriarchs I know as to whether a deeper meaning lies behind it, and I’ve come to a (half-baked) conclusion. But first, a little preamble (bear with me): The Chinese believe that the deceased’s body needs to be watched over at all times—lest a pregnant cat jumps over the coffin, prompting the corpse to sit up. Now, I don’t know how true this is, only that it’s a very good thing Chinese families tend to be large and extended…so relatives can take turns to "chor ye"—the filial duty of staying up to shoo cats away. Everyone knows staying up requires munchies, and what better to munch on when struggling to stay awake than something as tedious and time consuming as watermelon seeds?
Locals have adopted the Malay term bawa—which means “downstairs”—to refer to things that are déclassé (e.g., “He stole candy from a baby—what bawa behavior!”). Correspondingly, the term atas, "upstairs," refers to things that are classy (e.g., “That’s such an atas restaurant. I wonder how she affords it?”)
Personally, I have no issues with seeming bawa by cracking watermelon seeds with my teeth and extracting the brittle, off-white kernels with my tongue before spitting out the shells. But somewhere along the way, someone saw a niche market, realizing that the atas lot would want a more atas means of watermelon seed consumption. Hence, the invention of the watermelon seed cracker (hereafter referred to as the WACK).
Like the “magic thumb thingy” for shelling chestnuts I wrote about last week, the WACK is one nifty gadget. All you do is place the watermelon seed in the indentation in the middle, grasp the two ends of the WACK, and squeeze gently. The result is two perfectly separated shell halves, and the watermelon seed kernel in its unbroken entirety. (For the record, I’m perturbed by how much I sound like a late night TV ad. Whatever…it works.)
Visiting hyphenated-Chinese friends (Aussie-Chinese, American-Chinese, etc.) cart back great bagfuls of these for their relatives. Seems there’s a huge market out there for atas solutions to bawa problems… anyone out there has a brilliant idea for licking icing off beaters in a classy fashion?
About the author: Wan Yan Ling is an impoverished grad student and sourdough finger-crosser living in Rhode Island. She can usually be found in the kitchen procrastinating on "real work" or online tracking down obscure recipes. Ling thinks eating alone is no fun, and she still believes in hand-mixing.
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8 Comments:
These taste so much better than sunflower seeds!
spros at 3:19PM on 01/14/08
that is such a good invention! i love watermelon seeds. who knows why... geez, they don't taste like much and require so much effort, but i am totally going to find one of these is the asian markets we have here in the bay (ca).
chlamers at 3:21PM on 01/14/08
am i the only person who's never heard of eating watermelon seeds? what is it with people who spend so much time eating difficult-to-open-shelled seeds that don't offer that much in the way of edible goods nor are particularly tasty (sunflower seeds come to mind)? I never understood the appeal...
mh330 at 3:22PM on 01/14/08
Eating watermelon seeds is completely new to me! Is it like making pumpkin seeds in the oven? I was to try it....anyone have a recipe for making them at home?!
Lilartist at 4:07PM on 01/14/08
Holy crap, my family totally had one of those WACKs when I was little hidden in one of the kitchen drawers, but I didn't know what it was for! I never got in the habit of eating watermelon seeds, although I think I once asked my mum how to eat them and she did it the bawa way. ;)
roboppy at 4:37PM on 01/14/08
Lilartist: Just take your fave roasted pumpkin seed recipe and substitute watermelon seeds =) A basic one would be to simmer in salted water before roasting in the oven. Elise at Simply Recipes has a great one with many variations in the comments here: http://www.elise.com/recipes/archives/001438toasted_pumpkin_seeds.php
mh330: it's "busy food"... gives the hands something to do, is less calorific than most munchies, and has a sweet nuttiness to it ;)
onedaylingers at 4:25AM on 01/15/08
robobby: i actually think it tastes better the bawa way -- cos you get the salt hit first!
onedaylingers at 4:26AM on 01/15/08
omg i want
yi at 12:32AM on 01/16/08