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Michael Pollan's Twelve Commandments for Serious Eaters: Can You Live By Them?

Here they are, Michael Pollan's Twelve Commandments for Serious Eaters, from his new book, In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto. As Jamie Forrest noted yesterday, a few food pundits are taking him to task for a number of them. I'm down with most of what brother Pollan is preaching. What about you? These commandments are made to order for serious fat-chewing.

1. "Don't eat anything your grandmother wouldn't recognize as food." Hard to argue with that. I don't think my grandmother would have recognized porcini mushroom foam as food, though.

2. "Avoid foods containing ingredients you can't pronounce." Hey, what about bouquet garni?

3. "Don't eat anything that won't eventually rot."

4. "Avoid food products that carry health claims."

5. "Shop the peripheries of the supermarket; stay out of the middle."

6. "Better yet, buy food somewhere else: the farmers' market or CSA."

7. "Pay more, eat less." Easy for him—or anybody else with enough discretionary spending power—to say. Not so easy for the working poor or even middle class folks who have very little extra money for anything.

8. "Eat a wide variety of species." But can't I eat heritage pork products more often than others?

9. "Eat food from animals that eat grass." As long as these animals can occasionally be finished on corn. Sorry, Michael: Beef from cows that eat grass and then corn taste better.

10. "Cook, and if you can, grow some of your own food." Amen, brother Michael. I'll cook, but in New York it's hard to grow some of your own food. Would the AeroGarden in our office count?

11. "Eat meals and eat them only at tables." Hard to argue with this one.

12. "Eat deliberately, with other people whenever possible, and always with pleasure." This, brother Pollen, is probably the most important commandment for this particular Serious Eater.

The key to living by Pollan's commandments is to realize that it's not an all-or-nothing situation. We can't, shouldn't, and won't be able to be slaves to all 12 commandments. But they're a good starting point for both Serious Eater discussion and serious action.

41 Comments:

Re. #9; A friend of ours from New Zealand has commented on how they can't get corn-fed beef there. When she gets to the U.S. for an occasional visit, corn-fed beef is something she seeks out on a regular basis simply because it tastes so much better than grass-fed.

I have a feeling that #2 (don't eat something you can't pronounce) is more leaning towards preservatives and other chemically non-goodness, not foreign fluff.

Re #1: This statement is a cute metaphor but it is wide open to various interpretations. I think it means the difference between highly processed foods and simple homemade dishes. My grandmother would recognize clams but not collards since she lived in Rhode Island and I live in Mississippi. And she would most definitely recognize Swanson TV dinners!

In an ideal world, these are great rules to live by. But, as Ed points out, many of us don't live in an ideal world. Right now, for example, I would LOVE to go to my CSA or a farm market and get some fresh veggies or fruit. But I'm in Pittsburgh and it's 20 degrees outside. And I'm sure many people on highly limited incomes would love to stay out of the middle of the supermarket, but they have a defined amount of money and need to get some food their kids will eat.

I love Michael Pollan and will read this book. But we really need a new movement right now that makes more sustainably grown food a priority in this country and makes fruits and veggies and locally produced meat more affordable for those with limited means. Perhaps, for instance, the national Slow Food organization should take all of the money it spends on its annual festival in Italy and put that into grants to CSAs and farm markets so they can more readily accept food stamps or have reduced prices for those of limited means.

And perhaps our members of Congress should develop a backbone and pass a real Farm Bill that doesn't subsidize corn and the other products that serve as the backbone of the cheap, calorie laden-foods that inhabit the center of the grocery store and that encourage more farms to diversify and grow more fruits and veggies, so they are more widely available and more affordable.

Pollan was very vocal about the Farm Bill and did his best to encourage all who would listen to contact their legislators and tell them these very things. But, as usual, it was the rich and the agri-businesses that got their way, and most people have no idea it even happened.

Regarding #1: one of my grandmothers was from Ohio and probably cooked with a lot of things Pollan wouldn't want me to eat. The other was from the Ukraine and ate a lot of things I don't recognize as food.

These are better as guidelines than commandments, but cute to have a list anyway.

Regarding #7 ("Pay more, eat less."), you said: Easy for him—or anybody else with enough discretionary spending power—to say. Not so easy for the working poor or even middle class folks who have very little extra money for anything.

It appears that the working poor and middle class (in the USA, anyways) are hardly suffering from a lack of food given that they tend to be the most overweight in society. Higher quality, lesser quantity would do everyone good.

I think good grass fed beef is way better than corn fed (or finished) beef for anything where you want a lot of flavor. I eat beef because I want to taste the meat, not because I want some sad, chicken-like neutral protein source that serves as a blank slate for whatever I throw at it. You do have to be more careful about overcooking it and never serve it more than medium rare, but I'm convinced the anti-grass fed beef lobby is crazy. :)

CVille - The problem is that "higher quality" food tends to be more expensive. Fattening, salt-laden, calorically-dense crud that comes in a can or a box tends to be a much more economically feasible choice than freshly prepared meals from the "periphery" of the grocery store.

Fillippelli - I really like your idea of coming up with a system for farmers' markets & CSAs accepting food stamps/ public assistance.

OK, definitely way too over-simplified. As with most things there are boundary conditions that very much do not fit into the rules listed.

For instance:

1. "Don't eat anything your grandmother wouldn't recognize as food."

Having lived in and associated with people both in larger cities and very small towns, I've seen people that never leave where they live their entire life. Up through several decades ago some of those in the smaller areas might have had a hard time finding certain imported items/ideas like mangos, kangaroo, kimchee, etc. Is this item in the list a back-handed way of endorsing the "eat local" movement, or is it just ignoring that there have been some people with very limited exposure to the "other" that would actually reject some of those very other items as "not food"?

3. "Don't eat anything that won't eventually rot."

Some foods seem nearly too perfect, like honey: If we can find it still edible, however desiccated, after thousands of years, then that rule is certainly right out.

5. "Shop the peripheries of the supermarket; stay out of the middle."

Big presumption on layout of the market...or maybe not. At any rate, go near the center of most I shop in and you'll find the flours, dried pastas (yes, they're generally better fresh but the certainly do not have to be), rice, beans, lentils, etc. What you have there are some of the basics that there is no way I'd consider avoiding.

I have similar thoughts and comments on many of the other rules, but will have to save those for another time since I gotta run right now.

Re: #7-
Pollan is quick to mention that this is not feasible for everyone. I think he makes a good point, however, in pointing out that a lot of households (I won't say the majority) that couldn't necessarily afford to "eat less, pay more" can afford cell phones or cable TV. Is having VH1 really more important that eating decent food? Besides, these are general recommendations. I think the real takeaway is simply to care more about what goes into our mouths, no matter what the income level or socioeconomic status.

Also, I love the suggestion that farmers' markets and CSAs should accept food stamps- my local market in DC (before it closed for the winter) did. That requires some intervention from the government however. Several markets geared towards low income customers have had to close, simply because they couldn't make ends meet.

These are so redudant. Did he really need 12 commandments to say the same thing? Seek out locally grown fresh food and cook it yourself?

Re: Rule #5

I find this really interesting! I've shopped the periphery for YEARS and have gotten a ton of flack for not having a stocked refrigerator or pantry! Fresh food doesn't keep! So, we rarely have more that enough food for a couple of meals on hand at any given time. I'm glad that this is now being recognized everywhere!

For those looking to grow their own food with VERY LITTLE room or effort - check out www.earthbox.com. We live in a very urban area with little room to grow things, but you can grow a TON in these, with very little space and effort. I highly recommend them!

i try to follow #12 partially, and that is to eat with pleasure, in the company of others.

and eat meals at tables? can that be the same table where my keyboard and mouse is?

i also assume that the rules are completely up for personal interpretation and ideas like don't eat foods your grandmother would not recognize, really isn't strictly what it means. i tend to think people should just eat what they eat, even if it makes them unhealthy.

while on the subject, the incentive for eating healthy is... feeling better? living longer? one could make the argument that eating everything in sight makes one happier. and are there longitudinal studies that show an organic only vegan lives X number of years longer than a twinkie loving counterpart? without numbers, i can say there are old dudes in china who smoke and eat stir fried meals with MSG and live to 90.

I addressed every point, then hit the wrong key, so I'll just go straight to #11. Six or seven small meals have long been regarded as healthier than the traditional three squares. More important, it's my bed and I'll eat in it if I want to, with a book in one hand and a bagel in the other!

Foodinmouth: I have to vigorously disagree with "I tend to think people should just eat what they eat, even if it makes them unhealthy" and "the incentive for eating healthy?" comment.

Personally, it pisses me off that society has to bear the cost of our country's poor eating habits. Diabetes, heart disease, cancer, to name just a few, are often a direct result of unhealthy eating (and lack of exercise), and those rates are having a HUGE impact on health care costs for everybody. And, meanwhile, the government gives money to companies who provide the raw materials to the companies that make these unhealthy foods. So the tax payer is paying for the production of the healthy food and for the care of those who eat it. Nice.

Second, the impact on the environment of factory farming has been well documented, including the impact those farms have on those who live in surrounding areas.

If I had time, I'd cite further examples of why you are wrong. But these two alone are evidence that this whole debate is about far more than whether somebody chooses to eat healthy or not.

With that, I'm going to pull a pound of locally-produced grass-fed beef from the freezer for some burgers this evening, which we'll eat with sweet potato fries made from our CSA's last picking of the year.

Fillipelli: Paul McCartney, forty-year vegetarian, just had heart surgery. Cause and effect is a great deal more subtle than one would think.

I would like to add: don't eat anything with one of the main ingredient corn syrup. Also, eating fresh, unprocessed food does not mean you need to spend more money than when you load up on TV dinners, chips and soda.
I've done it and actually saved a lot of money by buying either fresh or dried vegetables, fruit, some meat and replaced soda with tab water. I saved a lot of money and my health improved.

Forgot to mention that, in addition to a small selection of produce, the periphery of my supermarket consists of frozens, meat, beer, candy, and nuts. I think I could live with this.

1. This is a bit spurious. I wonder if my grandmother would recognize sashimi as food...

2. This is too general, as commented above. This refers to synthetic additives, not ingredients in foreign languages, but really, its about education.

3. Agreed. Except for salt. And certain things that take a very very very long time to rot, such as cured meats.

4. Agreed. That includes soy products, artificial sweeteners and fats such as Splenda and margarine and spray fats like Pam. Eat REAL milk, butter and sugar (in moderation)!

5. Except if you live in NYC or another city where stores are often shoehorned into awkward spaces.

6. "Better yet, buy food somewhere else: the farmers' market or CSA."

7. Actually, while this may seem counter intuitive, this is extremely true: since the end of WW2, Americans have spent less and less on what they eat, and at the same time health care costs have risen astronomically. The two are absolutely correlated.

Poor people ESPECIALLY need to spend what little money they do have on higher quality food. Spending more on food doesnt mean going to fancy restaurants, it means choosing fresher, less industrially processed, more organic foods. Stop buying 2 liter bottles of soda. Stop buying frozen dinners, wonder bread, Jiff or Skippy peanut butter, etc etc. That stuff is killing you!

Doctors, hospitals and prescription drugs are much more expensive than higher quality foods. If you dont eat high quality food, you will be unhealthy and get sick. And that is much more expensive, especially if you dont have any health insurance. Americans need to shift into a mentality of PREVENTION instead of REACTION. Eating well is preventative medicine. Two birds, one stone.

8. Humans are omnivores. The more variety in our diets, the happier and healthier we are.

9. Agreed, for health reasons, but it's true that grain fed tastes better. Just like us, cows that eat grains like corn and soy get fat. I bet Americans are super tasty!

10. Agreed. If you live in a city, you can grow your own herbs if you have sunlight in your apt. You can even grow some veggies like tomatoes. Also, there are some co-op gardens you can join, where you either get your own little plot and do your own thing, or you all contribute and divide the crop.

I love the idea of more people growing their own food though. I was thinking, there are so many people with big yards who dont have the time, interest, or physical ability to cultivate a part of it. If you dont have a yard, but have a neighbor who does, ask them if you can cultivate part of it. Give them part of your harvest in exchange...

11. Ed, does this mean no more eating hotdogs standing up? ;)

12. True dat.

"Paul McCartney, forty-year vegetarian, just had heart surgery. Cause and effect is a great deal more subtle than one would think."

He is 65 years old, and partied very hard when he was younger, and was going through a very difficult divorce, and there are also genetic predispositions to heart disease that he may have that you certainly are not aware of. Cause and effect is indeed more subtle than one would think.

BaHa: There is often no accounting for genetics and for behaviors such as regularly smoking pot for 30+ years. Cause and effect, indeed.

"The problem is that "higher quality" food tends to be more expensive."

FALSE. However, better food needs to be cooked, and the working poor seldom have time to cook food, and therefore eat garbage out of convenience. Have you seen how expensive McDonald's is? I can cook much better food for much less money than it costs to feed four people at a fast food place or on frozen dinners. But it does take a couple hours to do it, time that a person working two shifts at a Walmart for minimum wage and no health care benefits probably does not have.

WWMPD

Ed, since you're down with the brother, review your own list of seven go-to foods for the New Year with a critical eye. As a neophyte in the professor's church, what changes might you make?

I haven't read Pollan's new book, but I'm going to hope that a New Yorker has ready access to the kind of bialy that would make the final cut. The lack of specificity when it comes to vegetables suggests that you're embarking on a difficult spiritual journey, though. Our prayers are with you now that you've turned your back on the Demon Splenda.

Fillippelli the Cook,

Let's talk about this for a second. How exactly is 'society' bearing the burden of heart disease? Sure, your HMO is going to charge you through the roof because they have to cover their costs. But what you said makes it sound like everyone is on Medicare, and thus society collectively pays for all these expensive surgeries.

Actually, that *is* indeed the best system we could possibly have. See you're not looking at the problem the right way. If universal health care existed, the gov't could then tax you for having clogged arteries. So the problem is not with society bearing the costs, it is the system that needs to change to offer citizens an incentive to eat better. A politically incorrect way to say this would be, let's have universal health care and make sure we attach a fat tax to it. Simple.

By the way, this is on top of the idea that as a society, we take care of each other. It is kind of what makes us humans. So some people have heart disease, big deal.

Your second point about commercial farming. Your issue is with the current state of things, assuming things do not change. We can easily enact laws to help change that. If they step up taxes and enforcement of laws, then you could see commercial farming have less impact on the earth. The problem is, farming is always going to have impact on the earth.

I stand by my statements in an ideological sense; just because current practices of our government are not as efficient and pragmatic as I would like, does not make this idea wrong. We should do what we want, in pursuit of our happiness.

Seyo,
in terms of cost per calorie, fresh food is indeed more expensive in the US. a bag of chips has way more calories than a (bigger) bag of carrots, for example, but it probably costs the same or much less. so purely in terms of energy you'll get out of it, it's much cheaper . . which can be important when you're trying to wring the most out of every cent. but eventually of course it has an impact on health.

Ed,
corn-fed beef might taste better, but it's a pretty indefensible practice nonetheless. in this country, corn-fed usually means industrially-produced, which is a disaster in several ways:

- environmentally, because of pollution from the cows themselves, monoculture and pesticide use on the corn, gas used transporting things all over the country, and a number of other reasons.

- economically. governmental policies are dicatated by agribusiness, and are good only for the companies that process food and sell pesticides and etc - they're not good for any farmers, even the ones who work for them. agribusiness almost completely fails to deal with externalities like pollution and etc, which are not reflected in the cost to the buyer - we pay it through taxes or we leave it for our children to deal with.

- internationally. the industrial growing of corn requires pesticides and etc that are derived from petroleum. it takes something like five barrels of oil, iirc, to produce one slaughter-ready industrial cow. if corn is grown on non-industrial farms, practices like crop rotation eliminate the need for that kind of chemical input. our petroleum use is, to say the least, a factor in a number of worldwide conflicts, not to mention global warming and etc.


but even if you leave all that aside, cows aren't meant to eat corn. their digestive systems aren't equipped to handle it, so for them to survive on that kind of diet and not get sick and die, they have to be pumped full of drugs. antibiotic use on factory farm feedlots is a huge contributer to the development of drug-resistant strains of germs, and if it doesn't stop, someday soon we're going to learn what it was like to live in a world before antibiotics because ours just won't work anymore.

long story short: it might taste better, but it's terrible in virtually every way and is also full of drugs and nastiness. unless you're saying grass-fed is somehow inedible, it has to be the way to go.

(most of this was drawn from Pollan's "The Omnivore's Dilemma," by the way, which i can't recommend highly enough.)

Re: #3, the only actual food items that excludes are:

honey
real dark chocolate
hard tack

Instead, we should eat stuff that will eventually rot, like:

corn syrup
milk chocolate
Twinkies


?!!?!?

2. "Avoid foods containing ingredients you can't pronounce." Hey, what about bouquet garni?

I abide by that one... and one further, I once was told why even buy food with an ingredient list? I guess that goes along the lines of always trying to buy stuff that would eventually rot...

KarmaFree Cooking

Cost per calorie is at best an irrelevant measure. The amount of calories in a bag of chips is indeed greater than that of a bag of carrots of the same cost. But those are empty calories. The nutritional value per dollar spent is almost always better with fresh an unprocessed foods. And thats what really matters. Calories in and of themselves are meaningless. Thats another problem, we're too conditioned to think in terms of calories, less in terms of nutritional value.

I think we can all shape our individual living footprint into the maximum food producing space. 1) If you own a lawn get rid of it, even the smallest yard plotted correctly and planted with the season will more than sustain a family of 4. 2) Living in Alaska taught me that a good grow light can produce a plentiful supply of tomatoes, lettuce and herbs. The cost of operation is approximate US$22 per month for 2 lights.
3) Grass fed beef is great, but better yet when in New Zealand eat the grass fed venison and your in food heaven.
4) Even if your in NY city you can shop at farmers market of small produce shops where the travel from farm to retails is at a minimum.
Cheers

All pretty good, except #1. "Don't eat anything your grandmother wouldn't recognize as food."

Neither of my grandmothers or my wife's grandmothers would recognize sushi as food, period. And I am *not* giving up my sushi. :)

Here they are, Michael Pollan's Twelve Commandments for Serious Eaters, from his new book, In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto.

Did Pollan use the term "Twelve Commandments"? It doesn't sound like him.

It makes a difference, rhetorically. Ethos, Logos, Pathos.

Pathos is being strung out to a vibrating chord with the use of the term "Twelve Commandments", which alters the perception of those reading the phrases.

There's also the fact that context sometimes can be everything. Take one of these KISS statements out of context and it might appear different than it is exactly meant to be in the original context of the complete written material.

KISS in the post above meant in this sense , of course.

Regarding #1, in the book he says your great-grandmother, or if you're middle aged or older, your great-great grandmother. And the point is that it's a decent mnemonic for discerning what's food and what is a food product, not a literal rul to live by.

Seyo, some soy products aren't "fake" anything, they're real soy foods. There's a long-standing tradition for tofu, okara, yuba, tempeh, etc. - that totally fits with the rest of these so-called commandment.

re #10: I brought my potted jalapeno into the house this fall (we live in New England) and it recently started flowering. I've got two little peppers on the way! Peppers are self pollinating, so one plant is enough, but I would think two would be better. We have been using tufts of dog hair as a sort of paint brush to move pollen from one flower to another since we don't have bees in the house. So, it is possible to grow a little bit of food indoors in the winter.

What a bunch of nit-pickers. Get with the spirit of the rules. We could all pick them apart with picayune exceptions, myself included. But generally-speaking, even making an attempt to follow these rules will have people eating quite a bit better. Geeze.

Okay, as a general guideline I like the rules. I think that they would be very difficult to adhere to all the time, and perfectly, as they are written, but they're generally decent rules. There is one exception, and it's as much about the other comments as the rules. Everyone is very keen to help "The Poor" eat healthier - get more fresh foods, less processed foods, etc. In principle, I'm bang alongside that. In practice, that won't necessarily help. Having a refrigerator stocked to the brim, for free, with good things won't be all that useful to a lot of the working poor. If you're working two jobs, trying to get your kids to and from school, possibly caring for a sick relative, etc, food is just going to slip to the bottom of the priority list. (I have a very good friend going through all that right now). You're going to pick up convenience foods that probably taste like feet, but fill you up and get you out the door quickly. Given that there will always be a certain segment of the population that is dependent on convenience foods, perhaps there needs to be more focus on making those foods less harmful than on eliminating them from use.

CVilleBilly, low income families tend to gain weight because the affordable foods are calorie-dense and nutritionally-empty. Please read more on this issue before making such insulting remarks. Thanks.

I'm all for grassfed, no CAFO meats. If you have had pastured chicken and turkey, naturally-raised pork and really cooked the right way with grassfed beef, you know what I mean. It tastes meatier. You want fat with your steak? Top it with some bleu cheese. If you ever read how commercial meats are raised (Fast Food Nation) or themeatrix.com, you'll understand.

He actually said "great-grandmother," not grandmother. And he doesn't mean to exclude things like sushi--it's made of fish and rice, which is obviously food. What isn't "food" are basically the items referred to in #2--things that aren't whole foods.

I'd like to argue that cows that are grass-fed, grass-finished, as just as good tasting as corn finished. It's also better for the cows, because feeding them grain, such as corn, is stressful to their systems - it also diminishes the omega-3 content they gain while eating grass.

I've found a good brand recommended by Eating Well magazine, called La Cense Beef. They recently sent out an email to their customers letting them know about a giveaway their doing I thought I'd share the site:

www.winagrassfedcow.com

I am SO tired of hearing people complain that eating healthy is expensive. Eating ORGANIC is expensive, but buying and eating lots of fresh produce and cooking at home is much cheaper and better for you than processed, fat&sodium laden crap that is turning the poor/middle class fat. Fast food is a convenience - if you take a *little* time to cook real food, you'll find that it doesn't break the bank and will do wonders for your health. Yes, this can be difficult for those working two jobs or just otherwise stretched to the max, but there are PLENTY of people who aren't so overburedened that they can't cook a simple meal.

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