Cognac's Kin
In today’s New York Times, Michael S. Sanders explores one corner of an often neglected world of spirits: Armagnac.
Widely enjoyed in Gascony and largely an afterthought almost everywhere else, Armagnac is Cognac’s less-famous sibling. With its distinctive robust flavor, Armagnac is often thought of as the country bumpkin cousin to the more sophisticated Cognac. Quoting Marc Darroze, whose family has been buying some of the best vintage Armagnac from French farmers and selling it worldwide for more than 50 years, Sanders writes, “If Cognac is feminine, Armagnac is masculine, dense, powerful, individualistic, reeking of terroir.” Where Cognac can be sweet and fruity, Armagnac can be rich and earthy, a close relative with its own inimitable character.
More than 500 bottles of Cognac were imported into the U.S. last year for every bottle of Armagnac. But at a time when the American palate is becoming more adventurous, seeking out regional delicacies with distinctive flavors that set them apart from their more familiar relatives, I wouldn’t be surprised to see more people exploring Armagnac in the next couple of years (and in many fine restaurants and bars, a growing interest can already be seen).
My own experience with Armagnac is woefully limited. Any fans of this intriguing brandy out there who’d like to share their experiences and their favorite bottlings?
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4 Comments:
Oh hell yeah! I find Armagnac suits the wild game I cook far better than dainty Cognacs. You bring Cognac home to meet the folks: Armagnac is bolder, dirtier, sexier - even a little dangerous. You might want to end a steak dinner with Cognac, but you pour Armagnac after eating a haunch of venison or a brace of canvasbacks.
My current fave: Cerbois Bas Armagnac VSOP. Neither inexpensive (about $35) nor exorbitant, it's the perfect end to a game dinner.
HunterAnglerGardenerCook at 3:52PM on 01/02/08
When I lived in Paris, I got to know Armagnac and Calvados, and prefer both to Cognac now. Of course, if someone plops a bottle of Louis Trez down in front of me, it's third-place status in my pantheon of liquors wouldn't stop me, I'm just saying...
kitchengeeking at 5:52PM on 01/02/08
I would not consider myself an Armangac connoisseur by any stretch. I have a bottle that I was given by someone who went to the region and it is delicious. To reinforce HAGC's comment, it is a more robust glass (has gumption).
I do like to mix it (sometimes) in a cocktail. One I like is 2 parts rye to 1 part Armagnac to 1 part apple cider, squeeze of lemon. I call it a French Apple, but that's only because I didn't look to see if anyone else makes something like it.
maryr123 at 6:47AM on 01/03/08
I have a bottle in my pantry but have yet to use it. I was planning to use it on some prune-armagnac dessert. I heard that combination is heavenly.
Veron at 9:43AM on 01/03/08