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Junk Food Costs Less Than Fruits and Vegetables: Are We Surprised?

Junk food is cheap, cheaper in fact than fresh, healthy food! Junk food has more calories than its cheaper, healthier counterparts, so poor folks gravitate to junk food to fill up. These sad, obvious, and true findings are contained in a study conducted and released by researchers at the University of Washington. Serious Eaters, what can we as a society do if anything to deal with this?

Healthy eating really does cost more, the New York Times reported.

According to the paper, "That's what University of Washington researchers found when they compared the prices of 370 foods sold at supermarkets in the Seattle area. Calorie for calorie, junk foods not only cost less than fruits and vegetables, but junk food prices also are less likely to rise as a result of inflation. The findings, reported in the current issue of the Journal of the American Dietetic Association, may help explain why the highest rates of obesity are seen among people in lower-income groups."

The study's lead author Adam Drewnowski came to this obvious but very sad conclusion:

“If you have $3 to feed yourself, your choices gravitate toward foods which give you the most calories per dollar. Not only are the empty calories cheaper, but the healthy foods are becoming more and more expensive. Vegetables and fruits are rapidly becoming luxury goods.”

So to summarize: Chances are pretty good that if you're poor you're going to opt for junk food that gives you the most calorie bang for your buck. You're more than likely to buy potato chips than carrot sticks. That in turn is going to lead to more poor folks becoming obese. Wow. This is a particularly knotty problem with no easy solutions. What would Michael Pollen say about this?

23 Comments:

Gardening is not a solution?

I would have to imagine that a lot of poor people live in apartments and do not have access to land for gardening.

It's also hard to garden in the winter and doubly hard to maintain a garden if you work 24/7 to earn the meager salary.

When I first got married, this was a huge strain on us. We had very little income and so we did turn to fast easy and boxed and packaged stuff. It was cheaper. I remember once having enough and shouted back to the umpteenth person who blandly told me "These are your salad days.". We can't afford salad!

5 years later when I joined Weight Watchers to help shed the weight of the poundage gained by such a poor diet. Our food budget not just jumped, it tripled! I was then buying fresh everything, whole grains, lean cuts, etc.

Food that is issued from food banks is always non perishables which usually means boxed and prepackaged stuff so no fruits and veggies unless it is dried and cardboard The cost of food is rising, yet you hear of farmers not being able to farm. Small organic farms seem to be popping up, but their costs are high and so is the food.

It's a tremendous issue. 80 percent of food dollars go to marketing, processing and packaging and much of the processed foods are made from artificially-cheap subsidized foods (corn syrup, grain, soy products). The roots of the issue go deep into the current Farm Bill debate, and anyone who is concerned should be watching the Senate debate on this issue and supporting change. Locally, you can support your family farms and farmers markets, but national action would certainly help the situation for all consumers, not just those of us who can afford better choices.

I live in Philadelphia and I see this all the time. I see young urban mothers feeding their toddlers bags of cheese puffs and little plastic bottles of colored sugary water and referring to it as "juice" and referring to the junk food as "lunch". Does part of this stem from a lack of adequate nutritional education? Probably. But the bottom line is that it's far cheaper to go to Wal-Mart and buy cases of junk food and sugar water than it is to hit up the produce section of the Super Fresh across the parking lot. And many of these folks are people who are not only scraping to get by but are using what little means they have just to hop on the 3 different buses they have to take to be able to get to the store at all. So in many cases, it doesn't even matter if they "know better" because they just plain can't afford it on a regular basis.
And in addition to the cost factor, there's also the element of time, or lack thereof. People who are already working multiple jobs and taking slow mass transit services to get around don't have the extra hours in the day that it takes to prepare healthy meals from scratch, particularly because that's not something that people are being taught (at home OR in school) how to do. Junk foods, unfortunately, provide the element of convenience that many people are unable (and possibly haven't been taught how) to live without. They were raised by working parents (and often, a single working parent) who fed them processed convenience foods because they were the best solutions in terms of time and money and the cycle perpetuates itself.
Gardening could provide some solutions if, instead of putting up "luxury condos" or fast food shops on every other block, more unused inner city spaces could be dedicated to creating community gardens. But for people with little time, little means and very little space (and probably no form of a yard or a deck or a balcony on which to grow their own fruits and veggies), gardening is just not an option.
I am very lucky in that I have the time and the means and the space to purchase and grow fresh vegetables and to cook meals from scratch and limit my intake of processed foods but I'm in a city surrounded by people who aren't as fortunate and who live with this conundrum every day. What's the solution? I wish I knew. And thinking about it is making me too depressed to come up with one. There are so many angles from which the situation needs to be improved - economic opportunities, community reform, education - that as much as I want it to disappear overnight, it's going to take a long time and a lot of hard work and attitude adjustment for real reform to happen.
If anybody else has any suggestions, I can't wait to hear them! Maybe we SeriousEaters could band together and bring down the junk food industries for the good of our communities!

Those of us who work in public health have known this for a long time. It's a vicious cycle that is hard to break (poor health, poverty, lack of access to supermarkets/fresh food), but it can be done.

A few years back, The Food Trust undertook The Supermarket Campaign. in which supermarkets were built in Philadelphia’s underserved neighborhoods. The results were astounding – unemployment dropped (lots of jobs in a supermarket don’t require special skills), safety of the community went up (the large well-lit store deterred crime, and people felt safer walking around there), the economy of the area improved (other businesses moved in near the supermarket because they felt safe and knew that they would get traffic), and eating habits and health improved (for obvious reasons).

Breaking the cycle requires a significant financial commitment by an organization, but, in my opinion, it is totally worth it.

I agree with das_umlaut. At one point while a student I lived in a neighborhood with low income families and subsidized housing. Their cupboards were full of junk. White bread. Cookies. Chips. Coke. Hot dogs (*shudder*). More white bread.

I also wonder why so many low income people smoke. Why not free up that expense? Where I live cigarettes are heavily taxed and prices high to discourage smoking and yet at one point it seemed to me that more low-income people smoked than middle-upper class people, though I could never substantiate that. I supposed I can answer my own question with something I was once told: "If quitting was easy everyone would be doing it."

Sorry for getting off topic there but it's vaguely related.

This story works in concert with one posted about a month or so ago here on SE, about why a salad costs more than a Big Mac: government grain subsidies.

Like das_umlaut, when I lived in Washington Heights, a predominantly Dominican neighborhood. My neighbors weren't necessarily at poverty level, but they weren't exactly middle class, either. There were fast food joints at every corner. The supermarkets sold wretched and limited amounts of fresh produce. The hallways in my building would be filled with the smells of frying pork chops (a lovely smell, but let's be serious), which would be served with rice, with plantains, with potatoes--but rarely with anything green. The children were HUGE--you'd see 13-year-old boys who looked like they could be star tackles in the NFL.

The food was cheap.

You can also compare this to the stories from a year or two ago about a handful of Congressmen who decided to see what it was like to live on food stamps for a month. They ended up living on peanut-butter sandwiches, pasta, potatoes...nothing but starch. They couldn't afford to eat vegetables. And even the peanut butter: the all-natural kind is expensive; the affordable sort is full of sugar and/or corn syrup and lord knows what else.

It is part of our government's lasting indifference to the poor (and I don't mean just this administration's) that there has never been a move to subsidize healthy foods for low-income families. Or even--heaven forfend!-- for the country as a whole.

There was another story in the last year, I think in The New Yorker, about attempts in various school systems--led by Alice Waters' efforts in California--to introduce healthy and inexpensive foods into the school lunch programs. But these kids, who've been conditioned to eat junk, aren't interested in it.

It's a national health crisis, that no one seems at all interested in addressing.

Depends on what you are willing to do...

We lived in the project and were poor (obviously) and sure wasn't going to be able to plant anything on a small plot of ground that won't even grow vegetables.

But you know what? We ate all different kind variety of beans, carrots, cabbage,potatoes, rice...and those can still be bought cheaper than the rest AND accessible almost everywhere ESPECIALLY in the inner city/urban shopping stores. SO WHAT your tired of eating those things, its still your own personal responsibility to keep you healthy...don't like the options? Well neither did I, but I got an education and a job to do something about it...all the while eating those cheap 'good for you' staples.

Now I can afford to spend extra at the market, or buy from local stands and farmers markets.

We should have known something was wrong when Beer got cheaper than milk a long time ago...

...cook, chef, culinary sponge, traveler, volunteer, missionary.
tyronebcookin

I think Michael Pollan would say that healthy food is in fact not cheaper, when you factor in the extra cost of health care created by eating more junk food.

Great point, jamieforrest. But the people this issue effects are generally not paying for health care. They're either not receiving it, or receiving non-emergent care at emergency rooms unable to turn them away. In turn, their health care costs become everyone's. Which truly shows we should all be concerned about this problem, so matter how much money we make or how we choose to spend it.

This really is a serious eating issue.

I really question the cost per calorie comparison. Obesity is prevalent among the very poor specifically due to type of diet, not overeating per se. I understand that many urban poor do not have access to good grocery stores, and that time for meal prep is a major issue. But I've gone through times where I was working two full-time jobs and money was still so tight, I didn't know if I'd make the rent, much less have money for a lot of groceries. Yet, maintaining a nutritious diet was never a problem. I got sick of canned tuna, rice, bananas and cheap cheese, but I managed to eat well and get more than sufficient calories.

Lucky for me, we had little money growing up, but good nutrition determined nearly all grocery and meal choices. I was TAUGHT to do this, and I believe education is still the biggest issue here. If you interview poor moms, for instance, they almost all recognize that fast food or junk is bad for their families. They just don't know how to interpret labels well, and aren't very knowledgable about how to get the most NUTRITION per dollar (as opposed to the most calories per dollar). It's hard. It's confusing. It's easy to give in to convenience and marketing pressure.

Fruits and vegetables don't have to be fresh to be nutritious. Using beans, rice, pasta, etc., stretches a small amount of inexpensive meat a long way, and it doesn't even have to be part of every meal. Right now, regular non-sale prices at my local supermarket, in one of the highest cost of living areas in the nation, include $13 for 20 lbs of pinto beans, $1 ea for canned vegetables, $3 per lb for several cuts of beef, a 4# chicken for $6, tuna for $1 per can, 18 eggs for $3, about 5 bananas for $3, a 3# bag of apples for less than $4, a jar of PB for $3.

A nutritious, filling meal for a family of four can clearly be had for about $5 total. If I shop the sale prices, I can do even better, with meat often $1 per lb., and two cans of vegetables for $1. The same family will pay at least $8 for the cheapest fast food meal. A lot more calories, but a far less nutritious, less filling meal.

"Gardening is not a solution?"

I don't mean to be rude but are you serious? For people who are working two jobs, or live in city apartments, no, gardening is not an option.

I can speak from experience. I live in a city apartment and I make use of all available space I have... my fire escape. That allows me to grow a couple of herbs in the summer.

That said I'm fortunate enough to have enough disposable income to spend my money on fresh, whole foods. Unfortunately, many are not, and that's a sad thing. And I can't imagine trying to live off of high calorie junk food... it's unhealthy and has to sap people's energy as well.

School lunches aren't much better but thankfully, some people are starting to recognize this and requiring healthier school lunch options. All fast food should be kicked out of schools... same with chips, candy, and soda. If kids want that crap, they can bring it from home.

Ed: What do you think about the report? Possible corrective measures?

The NYTs brought up a significant point: it is doubtful that people with low incomes weigh the per-calorie costs of pears and a bag of potato chips and choose the latter since it costs less. No more than wealthy people do, I imagine, when skipping the farmers market where they sell ripe, local Magness and heading to Whole Foods, instead, for thick-cut slices of Fingerlings brushed with extra-virgin olive oil, coated with fleur de sel from off the coast of Brittany before baking.

However, the businesses that sell food to people with low incomes make conscious choices about cost and inventory.* It's more expensive to ship those pears from Washington across the country to New Jersey than it is to transport packaged food, even potentially fragile potato chips. They require extra work in the produce department, if not as much as a head of lettuce or tomatoes. Then there's the matter of shelf life.

Overall, it's a lot more expensive to sell raw, unpackaged ingredients than it is to sell processed foods. From what I understand, profit margins for major supermarket chains are bad enough as it is compared to other types of businesses; imagine what it is like for a small, independent grocer or the convenience store on the block that stocks milk, cans of soup, frozen pizza and Twinkies.

The marketing of processed foods is cited as a major issue by Expat Chef. Pepsi is familiar.** Last night I picked up some shallots and the cashier asked me if they were beets. Parents don't cook. Their parents didn't cook. Fewer people bother to prepare meals anymore or pass on the skills they do have to their children. Their repertoires are limited and often inspired by preferences shaped by fast food franchises. Grocery shopping and cooking are chores, not creative outlets nor adventures. It's like doing laundry.

Therefore, healthful raw ingredients are not necessarily on the shopping list. When they are, they are there out of a sense of duty and not because they're valued for their taste. Just one more thing you gotta do even though you'd rather eat gooey, hot pizza with cheese baked into the crust. How else could mealy, waxed Red Delicious apples be sold? The bargain bags of randomly selected winter fruits for 88 cents a pound? The stuff scientists at UC-Davis have bred to ship well and store long instead of taste good? If that's all you've known or had, how could you possibly care about the peaches whose producer Alice Waters has helped make famous among a certain set?

*In the early 1980s, a food co-op close to an Ivy league university took over a supermarket in the middle of a low-income neighborhood. They sold their usual inventory, lots of bulk items, but also Coke, ketchup and items they thought might attract nearby residents. Prices were set according to perceived nutritional value in hopes that they would get the Wonder Bread consumer to start baking whole wheat loaves himself. Not too effective.

**Another possible answer: marketing. Look at what POM has accomplished in selling young antioxidant-loving smokers on the pleasures of pomegranate juice so that the rest of us can now buy the fruit itself. Brand kale. Have some hot, unscrawny Hollywood vegan star in an ad campaign featuring a catchy song with lyrics that instruct you in its preparation and power as an aphrodisiac.

This reminds me of the absolute shock — shock! — I experienced as an American when I moved to southwestern France for a year and discovered that fresh fruit and vegetables were cheaper than packaged foods. Bottled water was cheaper and more readily available than soda, even at grungy corner sandwich shops. The daily outdoor produce market attracted tons of low-income immigrant families, because that was the best place to get a lot of food for little money. It's just a completely different world.

I dunno, this is like the same people that argue that people "have to" shop at Wal-mart because they can't afford not to. People managed to afford things before Wal-Mart came along, and at least the kids' toys were filled with lead.

There was a time when all these processed foods were not available, or at least when eating them was not the norm, and families went through very tough times and didn't starve and the kids didn't all look like linebackers. Are you going to tell me times are tougher now than in the Depression? Come ON. My grandmothers, both of them, could have given a lot of lessons about how to stretch food, buy dried beans and soak them, make "spaghetti sauce" out of ketchup, how cheap it is to make your own bread or yogurt or whatever. I work 2 jobs and it only takes a second to pour beans into a crockpot and cover with water and when I come home, voila, beans. Freeze half, eat half. I grew up very poor. We NEVER would have wasted money on pop and junk like that because my mother could figure out how expensive processed foods really are, and how much cheaper she could make things that were on the shelf that would produce 3-4x as many meals and without all the preservatives and chemicals.

Though I find the cost-per-calorie method suspect, the higher price of quality fresh food is a reality no matter what way you choose to look at it, and as others have mentioned, it's hugely in part to Farm subsidies for big corn, soy and grain. An older NYT article by Michael Pollan explains it simply and clearly.

I'm a bit shocked by the comments asserting that people could afford to eat better food if they'd just work a little hard, do a little gardening, sacrifice a little more. That's incredibly naive on so many levels. First, it assumes that everyone of a certain class isn't working their hardest already, that everyone is capable of gardening, and that they haven't already sacrificed all they could. Those are some pretty big assumptions. Then it fails to take into account that, sure, some do have the option to buy healthier foods at a greater price, but the fact is that a good deal of this nation is entirely ignorant about nutrition, so how would they know that there's any benefit to paying more when they can get their entire meal, already fixed for them, for a buck 99? You can't put the responsibility on those who don't have the knowledge to even be aware that they're making the wrong choice.

And then, socio-economic issues aside, it's just counter to logic that foods that require the least amount of cost add-ons, like processing and packaging would cost the most. It's an artificial economic system that not only hurts all of us, but also hurts developing countries who can't stay competitive with the US's subsidized pricing.

Sorry for the long winded rant, but this topic hit a person sore spot of mine...

We could stop subsidizing and favoring certain unhealthy foods through agricultural policies - wheat, beef, dairy, corn, sugar and peanuts, not to mention tobacco.
That by itself would lessen the price disparity toward (currently unsubsidized) fruits and vegetables.
Maybe we could go further and subsidize the healthy foods.

I agree . . . government subsidies. Breathe. Breathe. Not going to get all worked up today . . .

what i find also very interesting is that in the less-developed parts of the world, the "poor people" (which i guess would be a lot of folks) actually tend to eat what we here would call "healthy" foods.... lots and lots of fresh vegetables, the occasional bits of meats, etc. i'm thinking of countries like thailand, vietnam, and parts of latin america. to me, america seems to be quite backwards when it comes to food pricing.

OMG. i had to JOIN, JUST so i could comment on this! i'm always amazed at how television tells us how we should be eating "fresh, local, green, organic" or whatever the latest buzzword is that season, but they never mention how much more EXPENSIVE it is!!! OMG. i grew up on WIC, which is kind of a food-stamp program where you get vouchers for "essentials" which include dried cereal milk eggs and canned "juice". lately it's been reformed somewhat, but guess what? beggers CAN'T be choosers! you got to pick from LIST of items of things that WIC would cover! that's just ONE example, i'm sure others here have similar stories of their own. let's just say i had no IDEA cheese was NOT supposed to be ORANGE until i got to college! (God bless those boston hippies, lol)

on another note, we DID get fresh roadside peanuts, peaches and watermelon, corn and tomatoes it WAS GA afterall. that was the one time of year us city slickers could get fresh, good fruit and veg at rock bottom prices. =)

I remember WIC - it was such a help to know that no matter how slow my clients were in paying me, or how few I might have at any one time, there was always food in the house. In CA, we got vouchers for cheese (U.S. made, but not just the orange stuff), real juice (or canned, but still juice, not sweetened flavored water), peanut butter, beans, eggs, certain packaged cereals (not the sugary ones), and milk (fresh or evaporated or dried). Now I think fresh vegetables have been added. Having the vouchers for the protein-filled basics helped us afford the fresh stuff. AND they gave everyone nutrition information, one-on-one. Sometimes the government programs actually work.

As of now, I don't need WIC any more, but I still cringe at the prices of the "fresh, local, organic" stuff - and I can't say I like buying nonorganic stuff that comes from countries that spray with whatever will kill the bugs. So I hunt through the ads to find in-season sales on unglamorous things like cabbage and carrots. I find most farmer's markets to be considerably more expensive that even the high-end grocery stores (except, again, for the things that are dead-ripe and therefore a bargain). Plus, you can't just pop in to the farmer's market on your way home from work - unless you are passing during the three hours a week that they are open. Eating cheaply and nutritiously is a considerable task, one that takes time, education, organization, and determination, but it can be done. I think that time is the most influential factor, followed by an enjoyment of cooking (without that, life will be very dull).

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