• Share:
  • Send to StumbleUpon
  • Send to Facebook
  • Send to del.icio.us
  • Send to digg

'Next Iron Chef': The Finale

The show opens and, you know what? I'm really happy there are only two chefs left. That's fewer people to match dishes to. And, I think—I hope—that this finale will devote as much time to, you know, the cooking process as it will to the judging shenanigans and the plethora of commercials that breaks up those deliberations.

Anyway—exciting: The finalists, Michael Symon and John Besh, will face off in Kitchen Stadium, giving one man a taste of his future and the other a taste of what might have been.

At this point, and I'm typing here at the three-minute mark, I've got to admit to you that I'm pretty sure I know who wins. That is, if the Toronto Star restaurant column that appeared on October 6 is to be believed. (By the way, don't click that link if you don't want any spoilage.)

Speaking of spoilage, it follows, after the jump.

OK. Glad you followed me through.

We get some highlights of the chefs' high and low points and some voiceover from each contestant.

Symon: "I'm ready to tear it up. I'm gonna tear Kitchen Stadium up today" and "John, you know it's been a good run. And I love ya, but it's time to go home."

Besh: "I'm focused on winning today and cooking with all my heart and passion" and "Mike, you're a great guy. Your jokes are hilarious, and I'm sorry that you're gonna have to lose today."

Oooh. Another twist: The Chairman asks current Iron Chefs Bobby Flay, Cat Cora, and Masaharu Morimoto to watch and pass judgment on who might join their team.

And ... the secret ingredient—how appropriate—SWORDFISH!

Get it? A duel? Yeah.

The Chairman: "In the words of my uncle, I say unto you—ALLEZ CUISINE!"

And They're Off!

Damn, that's a hunk of fish, and they're both hacking away, cutting loins, grabbing neck meat. They're both quick on the draw getting sautés and stocks going for who knows what yet.

Not surprising, Besh is going somewhat Cajun, making a court-boullion of shrimp heads, roasted fish bones, and olive oil. And given New Orleans' location on the Gulf of Mexico, you'd think he'd have a natural advantage here, coming from a city with a richer seafood tradition than Cleveland. But, we'll see. He's also got some corn blinis on the grill and some sort of swordfish mousse going on in a food processor.

Symon throws the collar cut of the fish into a Dutch oven with some garlic, jalapeño, chorizo, and littleneck clams. There's also a salsa verde in the works, and he's pressure-cooking beets and lambs' tongues. Uh oh, he brings out the sous vide machine. Judge Donatella Arpaia is "very excited" to see Symon using the "culinary innovative techniques."

Besh has also got some swordfish circles deep-frying as well as some thinly sliced swordfish that he's marinating with olive oil, lemon, and dill. He's also rolling out some pasta. Whatever for? We'll see.

Spoiler Right Here

Host Alton Brown makes the comment that there are a wide range of flavors coming out of Symon's side of the kitchen. And Symon himself says he's stepping away from the Greek and Mediterranean influence he's known for. I think this might be another one of those pointed comments Brown has become known for on the show. Taken together with the fact that Besh is going comfortably Cajun and that he's been dinged for that in past shows, it's looking more and more like that Toronto Sun article was correct when it revealed Symon as the new Iron Chef. (Oh! That hurt, huh? Well, as I'm writing this at the 22-minute mark, I still don't know if that's how it all shakes out. Keep reading.)

And the dishes are starting to come together, with each chef plating at least two dishes.

Alton ask the Iron Chef judges how things are going. Morimoto says he wants to see dessert. Swordfish dessert? Uh oh. I don't think either chef has mentioned dessert. Besh comes up with an idea pronto and gets to it. Doesn't look like Symon's going to do one, though.

And it's one minute to go. Let's wait it out and go to the menus.

Symon's Menu
  • Marinated swordfish with soy-sesame yuzu, sous-vided and finished in warm marinade, served over lamb's tongue, paired with a prosecco cocktail
  • Olive oil–poached swordfish, cooked in the immersion circulator
  • Swordfish ravioli with a truffle-butter sauce
  • Spice-roasted swordfish over roasted pineapple with a pineapple salsa and a coconut and ancho chile sauce
  • Crisp swordfish topped with beets and microgreens
  • Braised swordfish collar with grilled swordfish, along with some chorizo

Damn! Symon cleans up! Five of his six dishes are raves with the Iron Chef judges. The spice-roasted pineapple swordfish dish totally blows all the Iron Chefs away. Besh better come hard with his line-up...

Besh's Menu
  • Cold applewood-smoked swordfish, served with a Louisiana wine, corn blini, fresh mascarpone cheese, and paddlefish roe
  • Swordfish crunchy roll, which is lobster wrapped with marinated swordfish, served over buttermilk dressing, with a spicy salad on top
  • Swordfish brandade agnolotti, stuffed with a swordfish mousse made from the neck meat, lots of garlic, and lots of olive oil
  • "Breaded" swordfish, baked, covered with crab meat and served over hollandaise
  • Blackened swordfish and shrimp, served with roasted shrimp in a little broth
  • Swordfish piccata, sautéed with chanterelle mushrooms and bacon, served over a purée of cauliflower and a reduction of eel stock
  • Swordfish cream in brik pastry, fried and served with berries, cinnamon, and black pepper

Besh's first dish wows the judges ("exceptional," they say), the second is a dud ("not enough swordfish," Flay and Morimoto declare), the third is "fantastic," the fourth is anothe dud, the fifth would have been perfect without the shrimp, the sixth is so-so. Besh gets major props from the Iron Chefs for making dessert. Cora says it's in the "Iron Chef spirit" to do so. And of course Morimoto loves the brown-nosing. Flay is iffy on the dessert, saying it was risky to attempt something on a whim when it's the last thing you're leaving the judges to taste.

Here Come the Judges

OK. Judgment time is upon us. And now the original three judges and the Iron Chefs are weighing the candidates.

Symon started out shaky, but he went on "to excel and excel and excel," Ruhlman says. Besh was solid throughout and steady, they all agree. They also agree that Symon and Besh are neck and neck.

"Michael won four of the battles, but Besh was right under him," Donatella says.

Besh had fewer wows than Symon, they say, but also fewer let-downs.

Great Expectations

Brown asks the Iron Chef judges what they're looking for in their new peer.

You have to be able to think on your feet and go in many directions, Flay says. You have to be a visualist and an entertainer, Cora says. Morimoto simply agrees with them.

Both chefs display the former ability but only Symon was good with the banter in this challenge. Besh was pretty quiet, which doesn't bode well.

And then we're reminded of what the regular judges said they were looking for in the first episode.

Michael Ruhlman: "Good fundamentals."
Donatella: Innovaiton. "I want them to push me and themselves close to the edge."
Andrew Knowlton: He was looking for a "warrior," whatever that means.

OMG! Morimoto has made crazy great little sketches of the chefs' dishes! How cool.

OK. They're voting ...

The Chairman (melodramatic as ever): "The journey of two of the best chefs in America has come to an end. The road has been long and the challenge has been hard. But only one chef will earn the right to be called 'Iron Chef.' I have tasted your food. I have observed your performances in my eight tests. And now the Iron Chefs have voted. The judges have voted. Chef Besh, Chef Simon: The time has come. The next Iron Chef is ...."

And The Chairman dramatically spins and sweeps his arm toward a banner behind him. It falls, and ... Michael Symon's face is up there big as day.

Alton: "What marvels will Iron Chef Symon's reign bring? Only time will tell."

Marvelous.

23 Comments:

I knew it. Michael is a fav of mine from his Melting Pot days on the (formely about) Food Channel. I was very glad to see my pick win.

I loved him from his Melting pot days too. I thought he would have been a perfect fit before all of this reality TV nonsense. I know Iron Chef is reality tv..sort of. I just felt that this show was above all needing to do this sort of thing. But then again, I'm not in show business....what do I know.

Serious Eats' pal Mario Batali's absence was conspicuous. Does this mean that Symon is now an Iron Chef and Mario isn't? If so, why? That was never addressed or acknowledged throughout the entire series of contests.

If the news was to be believed, Mario and Food network was a mutual split - http://www.abcnews.go.com/Entertainment/Story?id=3568545&page=1

Interesting. But that just says that Food Network won't air "Molto Mario" anymore. It specifically says he WILL continue to appear on "Iron Chef America." So does that mean there are now FIVE Iron Chefs?

I dont think Mario will be apearing on any new Iron Chefs....

The food network is doing its hardest to impode by kicking out all of the best chefs and filling the programing with clevage (giadda) and the EVOO Queen and dont forget about semi homemade!

how worthless...

They need to come out with a REAL food channel

Another good chef leaves the kitchen. It makes me recall a comment from one of my instructors, "If cooking is so great, why is everyone working so hard to get out of the kitchen?"

aside from the finale, this show was completely unwatchable. why even bother having female or non-white competitors, when you know they're going to be kicked off first.

alton brown gets douchier every day. glad to see michael symon get the victory. besh is a little too bobby flay for me - same tricks thrown on a plate with a side of overwhelming arrogance over and over.

Even if the desert was so-so, Besh should get the cajones award for running to create a desert with so little time left. Flay only complained that he didn't finish with his best dish, not even acknowledging the nerve it too to try it so late in the hour.

I was rooting for Symon all the way! I'm so glad he won :D

Okay, mario had to break with the FN...it's so much smaller than he is...but we truly didn't need "2 Dudes Who R Caterers" or whatever it is. Or more of that guy Guy and his "plate-smasher specials". So that's bad news however you slice it.

On the other hand, Symon's IC reign will be terrific...and FN is paying more atttention to Alton...so I guess channel 36 (in the Hudson Valley) can't be dead to me just yet.

BTW, did Donatella, Ruhlman and Knowlton get any dinner at all? I address this question, and many others, in my blog, Annie's New York Eats. You'll find it at http://www.annienewman.typepad.com

Being from Louisiana, I am a little disappointed. I was pulling for Besh. He does remind me of Flay...

As a Montrealer i read the link and i did not see anything about a current winner in the next iron chef nor any spoilage....I find it interesting tho because being canadian we are not current in our Next Iron Chef shows and are episodes behind..so Amy Pataki of the Toronto Star would not reveal details that she knows her fans have not yet seen....There is an error in your post today....

Excuse me, I read further and the following is an email i sent out to Amy Pataki of the Toronto Star and to those that program Food Network Canada my words were harsher...

Dear Amy
Please refer yourself to this website and then answer my question,

http://www.seriouseats.com/required_eating/2007/11/next-iron-chef-the-finale-michael-symon-vs-john-besh.html..

Why would u print this knowing the Food TV canada is episodes behind the US and therefore we Torontonians and Montrealers who follow the show do not know the end result.....now we do......and what does it mean Prospective Iron Chef Michael Sumon? Unfortunately now even the Americans anticipation has been spoiled...is this truly fair? even if it does promote Guy

Shame on u Amy....

Natalie Sztern

@blondee47: The Amy Pataki story has a very large photo of Michael Symon and says that Guy Rubino competed against Symon for an episode of Iron Chef that will air in January. That seems to me to give away the Next Iron Chef winner, despite the use of the hedged description "prospective Iron Chef."

I am sad that Mario has left, but I think that food network tries to provide something for everyone. I am a mother of three and I like to cook, but i don't always have a lot of time. I like semi-homemade because of that. Most of the other shows have things that are too involved. Alton Brown gives you the why and how to do things. And most of the time, my kids will eat the recipes I get from Good Eats.
I thought they were neck and neck until the show in Paris. I don't really know anything about "fine" cuisine, but those cock's combs were just GROSS!!

Adam if u want to read her reply email me personally and i will forward it to her...she replied promptly

@blondee47: I'm not quite sure if I understand why you're upset with Amy Pataki.

If I'm reading your comments here correctly, you had not read her October 6 article until yesterday (Nov. 12). At which point you took issue with her Toronto Star piece spoiling the ending.

However, you had chosen to click through to the "continued" part of this post, which clearly stated there would be spoilers.

So I'm confused as to why you're retroactively upset with Ms. Pataki when this very post should have served as a spoiler, negating anything that may have been in that October 6 newspaper story.

I'm kinda skeptical about an ABC News report that can't go back and fact-check Giada De Laurentiis' name.

FYI, Alton Brown was interviewed last week in a New York newspaper and vigorously denied that Batali is leaving 'Iron Chef'. Make of that what you may.

I myself am hugely disappointed with the choice of Michael Symon. I'm ceasing my viewership of this show, it is abominable that they chose this guy.

Why? For one, he is from CLEVELAND. None of the world's great cuisines come from Ohio, last time I checked. French-trained John Besh would have been a valuable conduit to American audiences (via Iron Chef) for French cooking. How they overlook this is beyond me.

Seriously--to have an Iron Chef program with three Mediterranean-style cooks and two specifically Greek-style chefs is ludicrous. Michael Symon is redundant because the show already has Cat Cora.

John Besh is simply more depthful, more intriguing. He diverges from the whole 'garlic, oil, lemon' style of cooking which characterizes so many other chefs.

And side by side, Besh is simply the better pick for this TV show. He excels in the 'artistry' side of food where Symon is sloppy (almost getting eliminated for his lack of artistry early in the competition).

Remember, this program is purely a visual show--we cannot taste what the judges taste. What a chef's dishes look like, therefore, is crucial for viewers. If we see a fabulous creation that captures our imagination, we will remember it long after the episode closes. It's what made the original Iron Chef show so powerful: mesmerizing visuals. Yet, the network lets Besh-the-artist go home and keeps Symon-the-slob. It's absurd.

Further point: Besh is smooth, polished, erudite and worldly, suave--the camera loves him-- whereas Symon is a bit of a midwestern boor. He' s a slouch, crass; he's loud and awkward. In the series tests, he was underconfident and lost his cool occasionally. Just not a guy to emulate.

So, I think letting this unfold the way it did was one of the worst decisions FN could have made and I agree this network is headed down the wrong path. They may have thought they were doing the right thing but it is clearly not the best thing for the show.

signed,
Cortez

p.s. And I am flabbergasted at the intelligence that Ruhlman and Symon go back 9 years. That is totally a conflict of interest.

I don't agree that Symon is disastrous for the show. I think he has personality and will grow into a great on-camera presence. Where Symon is from is hardly an intelligent reason for dismissing his abilities and potential. (Following that mentality into music we'd have ignored the Beatles when they came on the scene. I mean, it's not like any great rock and roll music had ever came out of the UK....) Besides, this isn't Iron Chef France, it's Iron Chef America and I prefer Symon because I'm not interested in another pretentious erudite who can show me the cuisine of the world (there are plenty of travel-food shows I can watch for a global food passport if that's my wont), I want someone who harkens more toward myself as an average American - who can come from this (as some apparently consider) "humble" beginning to create Iron Chef quality creations.

Besh was barely consistant, often good but rarely great, and I didn't perceive that he was going to get any better, where as Symon blew the socks off the judges when he was great, and seemed to learn from his mistakes and adapt and grow with humility and grace despite his "crass" personality.

On the subject of the direction FN is going - I agree; we're headed down a slippery slope here. It's great that it's being enjoyed by more people now, people who never considered themselves to be great cooks. It's increased the knowledge and skill of the average cook and convinced people who shied away from the kitchen that they, too, could create wonderful dishes; and I believe the large part of that was the introduction of non-pretentious, more relateable personalities. It made good food, and its preparation, more tangible to the average person. I started really watching FN when The Naked Chef came on - it was fresh and new and I could relate to it.

That being said - they need to find a healthy balance. I enjoy watching Ace of Cakes - his personality is refreshing and edgy, but he's professional and that balance allows me to enjoy his show but take his advice seriously. I perceive Symon to be the same way. However; though I haven't seen that Two Dudes catering or whatever it's called yet, only saw a commercial for it - it was heinous. It conjured images in my mind of these guys standing on opposite sides of a garage packaging food, tossing something across to each other, dropping it, and picking it up off of the grease-ridden garage floor and packaging it. I'm sure that's not really how it is, but that's where that commercial took me in my mind.

FN needs to take a step back and make sure they're maintaining a balance between approachable, personable, and professional.

Can't go along with your logic or your analogy. The Beatles didn't invent rock'n'roll. They were interpreting something that was already established in America--the real birthplace of blues and rock. To make your analogy work with regard to Michael Symon and Mediterranean food, you'd have to posit a Beatles group that had never heard Elvis or any American blues at all, and expect them to still be as good.

1)
I maintain that where Symon hails from is a crucial matter. Because we're talking about authenticity here. The real power these chefs have, is because they present themselves as figures of integrity and authority in a certain branch of regional food. They've trained and explored at length, in a rich local food heritage, which finds its way into their cooking. Food is culture. The way that local Spanish chefs make a meat sauce in Barcelona or the way that sushi chefs in make miso in Kyoto was the heart of the original Iron Chef show.

Else, why did the original Iron Chef Japan have each chef represent a major world cuisine? Iron Chef French, Iron Chef Italian, Iron Chef Chinese. This makes eminent sense and was a fundamental part of the program's success. This methodology provides a way to learn about food in a systematic way, rather than piecemeal.

And although it was not stated as such, this is clearly what Iron Chef America was mimicking with it's lineup. But now, they've unraveled this simple and effective arrangement--because Symon comes from the sucking void that is Cleveland, where he does his own thing--whatever that is. He hasn't traveled, but poses as an expert in Greek food. Okay, so where is the authenticity? Where is the depth? What can he transmit to us directly from the Greek food culture? You tell me. Is he capable of doing authentic dishes or just Cleveland, Ohio's version?

I mean, what is more important here? That we have a dumbed-down 'American Chef' program so that suburbanites can feel comfortable in the kitchen, or can we keep the integrity high and come to grips with the fact that the greatest cuisine in the world springs from sources outside our own country? French, Italian, Greek, Chinese, Japanese, Latin--let's stop pretending these are American creations and turn to the sources. Or, if we stick to American regions, then go with Southwest, Italian, Southern, or Californian. But pray tell what can any of us learn from Cleveland?


2)
And my other point is that he is also redundant in a show with two other Mediterranean chefs. What sense does this make? Or doesn't redundancy bother anyone else but me?


3)
But I guess my beef is with the way the producers handled this whole affair. I mean, there are so many places along the way, or in the concept itself, where you can see strings being pulled and events being rigged. Someone else mentioned, for instance, that it was obvious an ethnic chef with a thick foreign accent (Chef Marou) or another female chef weren't going to be chosen, right from the start. Food for thought.


Or, how convenient was it that one chef got slammed for 'failing to salt his dish properly' when, (behind the scenes) it was an ice bath which accidentally spoiled his dish at the last minute? And then this whole thing about Ruhlman and Symon going back nine years, and Ruhlman having some kind of personal preference for the midwest? And then Ruhlman jumps on Besh because his consomme wasn't clear enough? Come on. What I'm saying is that this is hardly a realistic competition to begin with.


The competition stages are interesting (and make good television) but they shouldn't be the total criteria on which a new chef for this show was chosen. Remember that when 'The Next Food Network Host' was chosen, two finalists reach the endgame and then FoodNetwork viewers voted.
Obviously the benefit of such a scheme is that it eliminates all the chefs who actually made drastic mistakes. But to eliminate John Besh from a silly final round battle in Kitchen Stadium against Symon?

Also, I hardly think Chef Symon blew anything 'out of the water'. His dishes were sloppy and insipid where Besh's were complex and composed. There was an imbalance in the silly choice of stage-winners each time. 'For example, Symon won the 'Resource test' how? By preparing a 'family style' plate and giving each judge a glass of juice?

In my opinion, losing the 'Artistry test' so badly that it nearly eliminates you from competition is a key reason not to add a chef to a cooking *television show*. Such a show is all about artistry. A contrived reality-show 'contest' (using the word 'contest' very loosely here) shouldn't be taken so seriously that we (or FoodNetwork) forget that this is television. If they're going to carefully import Michael Symon into the program, fine. But I'm calling it a hideously bad decision, and the excuse that "well this WAS a contest" is more of a smokescreen than anything else.

p.s. the reason I harp on the chef's backgrounds (and suggest that it makes the 8-week contest just 'entertainment' rather than a valid competition) is also this: in the Iron Chef America show so far over the past few years, what have we usually seen?

Every time Bobby Flay cooks, we see him trotting out all his southwestern techniques and ingredients. Every single time. And Mario Batali always cooks in Italian style. Always. Its considered a strength, and oftentimes it is how they win their battles. Going with what they know. They're not embarrassed by it.

And during the tasting at the end of each show, they can explain where the context of every dish came from. Where they encountered it, what its origins are. They are really 'contemporary food historians'.

So, it's easy to see that Michael Symon is also going to revert back to his strong suit in each show as well. Why wouldn't he? It's what will help him win. But what does he have to say about food in the larger sense?

Whereas, if John Besh had won, we would have had a conduit into the rich food traditions of New Orleans: creole and cajun cooking, southern cooking, the French and Spanish influence, Caribbean influence.

This is a clear 'fork in the road' that FoodNetwork was confronted with and I think that their new direction towards homey, non-star chefs underpins the way the contest went.

Think about it: they're using a test which involves cooking an in-flight meal to determine which of these two chefs winds up on Iron Chef America? It's outlandish. Where the heck is the relevance in that, to designing a properly informative and engaging TV show like ICA? Okay, Symon 'wins' the airline meal ribbon. Still: is he the best chef to have on the show? Bobby Flay might have lost that airline round, but he is still obviously a really great choice for Iron Chef.

I see the point many have made about preferring down-home cooks. Okay, that's a matter of opinion I suppose. But for my money, FoodNetwork already has too many bland, suburban, housewife-ey cooks, rather than top-notch chefs in its programming.

We have now: two shows from Rachel Ray, the Gourmet Next Door, that tall blonde soccer-Mom (daytimes) 2DudesCatering, Everyday Italian, Paula Dean, two guys who show us how to cook for parties (the guy from Napa Valley and the other dude), and a dozen others! Looks like 70% of FN programming is geared to low-budget meals!


Add a comment:

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment:

 

HTML Hints

Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>

Comment Guidelines

Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.

If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.