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Ed Levine's Semi-Serious, Semi-Homemade Thanksgiving

part of a Serious ThanksgivingAlice Waters, I'm afraid that when it comes to Thanksgiving, you're going to have to give me a pass. Because when it comes to Thanksgiving I'm much more Sandra Lee than Alice Waters. Yes, that's right, I'm the Thanksgiving Semi-Homemade King. I often don't brine my turkey, my stuffing starts with Pepperidge Farm cubed cornbread stuffing, my fantastic whipped sweet potatoes with maple syrup and dried cranberries begin life in a can, I purchase my gravy, I am going to take Chris Kimball's advice and make the cranberry sauce recipe on the back of the frozen cranberry bag, adding a half-teaspoon of salt, I do make George Germon and Johanne Killeen's crazy good mashed potatoes from their book Cucina Simpatica that are unapologetically full of butter and heavy cream, and I buy my pies.

So that's it, Alice. I put it right out on the (blog) table for everyone to see. I don't feel guilty about this in the least. Should I? I feel like a guy that's stepped into some kind of bizarre 12 step program for people who are addicted to semi-homemade Thanksgiving preparations:

"Hello, my name is Ed Levine, and I am a semi-homemadeoholic."

Let me explain, Serious Eaters, and when I'm finished perhaps you can find it in your hearts to forgive me, or at the very least you won't sneer.

Turkey: I've had some bad luck with brining turkeys. Our fridge is small, so one year I bought one of those cheap styrofoam coolers to brine my 16 pound turkey in. The cooler broke, and my kitchen floor was flooded with salty, sugary water seasoned with coriander seeds and other interesting spices. Two years ago I decided to take my turkey up to my neighbor's penthouse roof (they were away) and leave it there overnight to brine. But the weather forecast called for 40 MPH winds, and I got so worried that my turkey was going to fly off my friend's roof and kill or maim someone, giving new meaning to the phrase "fresh-killed," that I retrieved the turkey in a preemptive midnight run to the roof.

The Stuffing: Every year I start out thinking I'm going to make the Silver Palate's fantastic recipe for cornbread stuffing with sausage, pecans, and apples from scratch. Then I get to the part of the recipe that calls for making the cornbread and toasting the other bread that goes into this stuffing, and I end up buying Pepperidge Farm cubed cornbread stuffing and then adding some Italian parsley, sage, one large Vidalia-like onion, and the sausage, pecans, and apples. This stuffing turns out so good I can't imagine actually making the Silver Palate stuffing recipe comes out any better.

Mashed Potatoes: I suppose I could get the mashed potatoes from Kentucky Fried Chicken or Popeye's, but George Killeen's mashed potatoes are really easy and so, so, good.

Sweet Potatoes: This is one dish I do sort of feel guilty about. I use canned sweet potatoes in light syrup, rinse off the light syrup in a colander, put the sweet potatoes either through a food processor or in a blender, and then put them on the stove in a pasta pot and then start adding maple syrup, butter, heavy cream, and some dried cranberries. I've made these with freshly roasted sweet potatoes, and once I added in the mixings I found I couldn't tell the difference between the fresh and the canned sweet potatoes.

Gravy: My mother-in-law used to be the designated gravy maker in our Thanksgiving crowd, but in the last few years she hasn't been feeling up to the task, so I've ended up buying two pints of storebought gravy. This year I bought some Thomas Keller frozen chicken stock, so I am thinking about making some gravy using Keller's stock.

Relish: I usually buy cranberry-orange relish from a local gourmet store, Citarella, but after interviewing Chris Kimball this year for Serious Eats, I'm going to take his advice and make the cranberry sauce recipe on the back of the frozen cranberry bag, making sure to add a half-teaspoon of salt.

Green vegetable: I'm with Kimball on this issue as well. He says his Thanksgiving meal is a study in white, brown, and orange. Ours is, too, though my wife makes a really good broccoli puree with creme fraîche from the Silver Palate that is enlivened by Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Pie: I bought a new kind of frozen apple pie this year thinking I could save money and hassle if the Vermont Mystic Apple Pie I bought at Whole Foods turned out to be terrific. Alas, it wasn't. It was pretty good. In fact, it was the kind of earnest, honestly produced pie that a friend who was an okay baker would bring to your house and you would tell them it was great just because you love your friend, not because you really did. The Vermont Mystic pie had terrific, just firm and sweet enough apples, but was done in by its thick, stiff, not flaky, crust.

So there you have it, Serious Eaters, the Ed Levine Semi-Serious Semi-Homemade Thanksgiving. I put my fate in your hands. Am I fated to end up in Food Hell, or will all of you take pity on an insanely busy person who still wants deliciousness surrounding him at Thanksgiving, but lacks both the know-how and the time to make everything from scratch.

23 Comments:

Sounds to me like you still do a lot of work to make a great meal for your friends and family.

I usually buy gravy as well, and add it to the smaller homemade batch I whip up on T-Day. This year, I am making my own cornbread for the stuffing, but just as a test to see if it's really worth it.

And every year, nobody eats my homemade cranberry sauce.

Thanksgiving is overrated for those of us who generally make home-cooked meals every day of the year anyway. Last year, through a painful bout of strep throat, I slaved away making a Cook's Illustrated green bean casserole with fresh green beans and a homemade "cream of mushroom." It took 20 times a long as the old recipe on the Durkee can, cost oodles more, and half the family complained that it wasn't as good. I give up.

I not only don't sneer at you, I actually applaud you.

Thanksgiving is my all time favorite holiday and I am the champion cook in my family. That said, I've always used store bought bread cubes for the dressing, I've always made the recipe on the back of the bag of cranberries (with the addition of a handful of dried cherries), and you've inspired me to try canned sweet potatoes! I've always made what I thought was an obligatory green vegetable that was rarely consumed. I think I'll toss that idea! I feel liberated! I will still bake my own desserts. And gravy is sacrosanct. Because we smoke out turkey outside, I don't get drippings for gravy. Instead, I buy a few turkey wings, roast them, and make a stock. I use the stock for the gravy and the dressing. It is heavenly, if I do say so myself!

Over on the Epicurious blog today, Rick Rodger's has a great article on gravy. Then Amy Sherman's blog has Thanksgiving questions answered by Rick. Both good reads!!

I agree with what has already been said, you do a lot on Thanksgiving, so taking the occasional help is not a problem here. I have friends who order in their whole meal and pretend they did it themselves!!!

Even if I do a lot of cooking, I still enjoy Thanksgiving. Though generally, it's a potluck affair - I only end up doing 2-3 dishes, besides the turkey (cornbread stuffing, cranberry relish, and mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes of some part). The one thing I never do is gravy. Ever. I have never successfully made it, so I normally just buy some from Wegman's or Whole Foods - though the idea of making it from purchased stock is an idea I hadn't thought of.

Hey Ed, how about a loose "recipe" for your doctored Pepperidge Farm stuffing? I'm making nearly everything else from scratch(ish), but I was just going to grab a bag of their stuffing to save the hassle.

Oh, and in the spirit of admissions: my turkey is coming pre-brined and my green bean casserole gets it's flavor from Ruffles Sour Cream and Onion potato chips, which may actually be more trashy than the french fried onions from a can but tastes SO good.

Bless you Ed. I feel so much better now (I am not a successful briner either!)

I'm going to try your canned sweet potatoes trick.

And for a green veggie - how about Smitten Kitchens twist on Red Cat's zucchini with toasted almonds? You can do it ahead of time and it's good at room temperature....

Ed, about the cranberries: Try a little less water and a little less sugar.

I gots no problem with the Semi-Homemade approach (so long as no "tablescapes" are involved), but warning: IME, Thomas Keller's chicken stock is so lightly flavored as to be uhhhh...highly reminiscent of water. Granted, I like my chicken stock to yell CHICKEN, but the one time I tried playing with Keller's stuff, I wound up reducing it by about half with some chicken bones retrieved from the freezer and the scrapings of onions and carrots and parsley.

I will again say I agree to not agree. I do take a lot of time and trouble and cost to make a olympic thanksgiving meal all from scratch (except the pumpkin pie which we get from Costco). It almost reminds me of a disclaimer; your results may vary, objects will appear closer, measured by volume not weight.
I know that Ed puts in a lot of time into this blog and his own to make them the great endeavors that they are. That takes time.
I agree that some things are best not made at home. Example our Costco pumpkin pies. They come restaurant size for 8.99. They are damn good. My time to make them would far outweight my attention needed to something more stellar or intricate. Thus we do not semi-homemade, we out and out right just buy it.
Not everyone has the time, ability, patience et al to do what I do. I understand that.
As we speak biscotti are baking in my oven. Some people say to me oh for the love of God buy them they taste just as good.
Well to me they don't. So I say this, if you want to semi-homemade and you all gather to celebrate and you are happy and proud of what you have cooked, bless you.
If you are semi-homemade and your not happy, well then stop whining and start cooking.
If you are here to SE lurking about looking to get into the game for your first turkey day feast, take the advise of a serious cook (meaning me) don't plan more than you can handle. A big feast takes time and patience to execute and do not over do it. Better to do some dishes that are very good and a few that are semi-homemade then to do all of it either way and none of it is good.
Skip the tablescapes (EEK) and for the love of all that is holy use REAL mashed potatoes because (SURVEY SAYS) they taste real good.
I learned recently some people are fans of food yet they do not cook. We all can't play in the big game, someone has to watch and cheer us on.
These are the people I cook for.

My parents don't have a lot of relatives in the States, so Thanksgivings when I was a kid involved cranberry sauce from the can (I rather liked it back then because I could cut along the ridges), mashed potatoes from the box, and storebought pies. I loved it anyways, and I'm sure it made cooking a lot easier on my mom.

Now that my sister and I are older and can help out with the cooking, we've transitioned to making cranberry sauce and mashed potatoes from scratch since they're not so difficult, but no one has been willing to put in the effort to make pies yet...

In any case, I'm all for semi-homemade if it allows you to stay sane and actually enjoy the holiday.

Heidi of 101 Cookbooks has a very good sounding Golden-Crusted Brussels Sprouts recipe on her blog today. A new possibility for a green vegetable choice!

Jerzee, i'm right here with you. everything served at thanksgiving this year will be home made except for the cheeses and wines, but including the marshmallow :)

my menu:

- chestnut soup, roast pear creme fraiche, arugula oil, brook trout caviar
- lobster ravioli in spinach and beet pasta, bisque broth
- sweet potato and turnip gratin, cheddar marshmallow
- wild rice and shitake risotto
- wilted baby kale, pumpkin oil, toasted garlic and pine nuts, dried currants
- brined roast turkey breast, confit of drumsticks and thighs
- brown butter, thyme and caramelized corn sauce
- cranberry and pear coulis
- apple cider moonshine granita
- pumpkin and apple pies
- molasses ice cream stout float

haha! i like this article. i do think that if people are coming to eat and happy with your food...who cares how it gets there! shoot, if someone presented me with a catered thanksgiving meal, i wouldn't complain.

however, this holiday is like the pinnacle of my year...this and xmas...it's where i have to lay it all out and impress. there are certain things i do semi-homemade only because i haven't yet tried the homemade approach: stuffing (i would either used pre-made bread crumbs, or a box of cornbread). and the pie crust. can't do that yet.

@seyo you are gifted my friend. My people are not cool enough for a menu as epicurean as yours. If it were my husband and I, the menu would be more enterprising. That moonshine granita has got me thinking.
I bought a huge bottle of ouzo today. Wheels turning.

I went to Williams Sonoma today and found instant everything, stuffing, pie crust, gravy, soup all of it. I have to believe that WS has their hand on the "pulse" and that we old fashioned "cook from scratchers" are a minority group again. Maybe this is why the (formely about) Food TV has gone semi-homemade, yummo, tablescape (gasp).
That is ok, everything old is new again. We shall be a very vocal minority.

Thanksgiving is different for everyone. I love the family's Pepperidge farm stuffing with apples and sausage and the sweet potato casserole that turns out strangely watery if using fresh sweet potatoes. I don't think it necessarily has to be a degradation to use slightly prepared foods; if that is your Thanksgiving tradition. It is nothing to sneer at but just to be happy that you are with the people you love; eating the foods you want to eat on your holiday. If a serious eater doesn't agree with you on those particulars points well than you just don't have to invite them.

Thanks Jerzee, from what I've read, you hold up your end pretty well too. I think one of the missions of the food-makers is to push others, the eaters, into broader horizons. So even if they have somewhat conservative tastes, I like to challenge them and coax them into eating stuff they've never thought of, or thought they would like. Thats half the fun for me, watching them as their minds are being blown.

First I thought the title said you were semi-conscious. Which is a possibility after cooking too hard, Ed. I'm glad you are not and that you are merely semi-sweet as usual.

You also are in good company, as we can take a look back at Ancient Rome in this story.

Bread and circuses, the easy way. Thank you for maintaining this historic tradition.

We try to do most everything from scratch now, and generally we do so by planning ahead, such as making and freezing pie crusts in advance. Otherwise it would be impossible. We don't do gravy from scratch as we've taken to deep frying a turkey (to anyone who hasn't tried it, it is a surpisingly fast and tasty method, but you do need a backyard for it.) And there are some things that just shouldn't be tinkered with that were meant to be semi-homemade, such as green bean casserole. I saw Alton Brown's episode where he did it homemade and it just didn't look as yummy, and I guess sarahbeam proved it in her own home.

I personally would love to do a feast like seyo someday, but it would have to be for just my husband and me and some food-enthusiast friends. Our families just wouldn't go for such a departure from tradition! What we have been able to do over time is introduce more homemade elements to the occasion as we've become better cooks, but obviously the larger the crowd the more difficult this becomes. At the end of the day a few shortcuts aren't going to hurt anybody as long as everything is tasty and everyone has fun!

What good is making Thanksgiving dinner entirely from scratch if it's just going to stress you out? It's a holiday, not an Iron Chef competition. I think everyone should feel free to make and serve whatever makes them and their families happy, without guilt or judgment from anyone else. I do make everything from scratch, but that's because it's fun for me, I love to do it and I get lots and lots of help from my husband and guests. If I didn't, you bet I'd be opening cans and boxes galore.

Life's too short to feel bad about these things -- cook (or not), eat, drink and be merry! Happy Thanksgiving everyone! xo

OK, Ed, ya got me. You used the swear word Semi-Homemade in a newsletter that got shipped to my inbox and nearly threw me from my chair.

I was relieved to read that your idea of Semi-Homemade is a lot different (better!) than Shamdra Lee's.

Truth be told, the only truly SH dish I make is corn pudding. It requires Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix. I know if I put my mind to it, I could figure out the proportions of corn meal, flour, salt, etc. to yield the identical amount of dry ingredients contained in each box. With so much other T-Giving prep going on, to do this would be cutting off my nose to spite my face. My solution is to continue preparing the corn pudding as I have and simply fess up about the inclusion of corn muffin mix. With a respectable array of scratch foods on my T-Giving table, I think forgiveness for this one short cut dish would be in order.

Happy T-Giving!

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