PrintAre Healthy and Delicious Mutually Exclusive?
In a meeting yesterday I was asked if Serious Eats does anything in the healthy eating arena. My knee-jerk reaction to that question is usually "No, we're more into "delicious" than we are into "healthy." The meeting ended and I went to meet a friend at a Times Square tapas bar. My thin friend ordered a Francesinha, a triple decker sandwich with layers of melted cheese, ham, and chorizo, that came with terrific fries. I had a poached chicken and asparagus salad (alas, the chicken was dry) and ended up sharing the fries and even having a bite of that amazing, fat-laden sandwich that my friend called the perfect hangover cure. Then it hit me. In my own meandering way, on my better days, I manage to meld "delicious" and "healthy" into a way to eat and live that allows me to derive great pleasure from food while remaining somewhat vigilant about my health. My wife and son would like me to stick around for awhile, and as I am a child of two parents who died much too young Vicky and Will worry a lot about my eating and living habits. They know all too well my propensity for gustatory excess.
So how does one remain dedicated to the delicious while living a healthy lifestyle?
I can't give you a definitive answer because I must admit I struggle to do so much of the time. But when I do succeed here's why:
1. I have a thin wife and son who occasionally give me a hard time about eating too much fried chicken, barbecue, and frozen custard. I tell them it doesn't help when they badger me about over-eating, but I'm lying when I say things like that. Note to Vicky and Will: Keep on me.
2. I subscribe to the late Julia Child's "Everything in moderation, my dear," eating philosophy. On my better days I can order a cheeseburger and fries (if it's a really good cheeseburger and fries) and eat half the cheeseburger and half the fries. For me that works much better than ordering a plate of steamed vegetables and brown rice and feeling deprived the rest of the day because I ate "healthy."
3. Seek out small portions of deliciousness. New York's Shake Shack, which may serve the finest frozen custard in the land, used to have a kiddie-sized cup of its wonderful frozen custard on its menu. That mini-portion allowed me to indulge in my passion for frozen custard without over-indulging. Alas, for some reason they took the kiddie portion off the menu. Note to Shake Shack management: Put the kid portion back on the menu.
4. Order your pizza with less, not extra, cheese. Most pizza has way too much cheese on it. To me, pizza tastes best when it has discreet areas of cheese and sauce on every slice. So I resist the Pizza Hut-inspired impulse to dump more cheese into every component of a pizza meal. Note to Pizza Hut: Don't even think about putting cheese into the Diet Coke.
5. I eat more fruits and vegetables when they taste really good. Eating a spicy and sweet Macoun apple right now when it has just come off the tree represents the perfect intersection of delicious and healthy. And if I'm still hungry I go crazy and have another. The same goes for Sungold and Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes right now in the Northeast. But I don't feel the same way about eating a tomato in January in New York that's been picked green in Florida and gassed to turn red. For some reason those tomatoes don't have the same allure. Note to local family farmers and Farm Aid organizers: Keep at it. We support you.
6. I try not to consume any "wasted" calories. Bad french fries are wasted calories. Half an order of great french fries aren't. This is something I struggle with daily, because at stressful moments all french fries sound (and even taste) great. But that's the stress talking and not the french fries.
I can't preach about this issue because at least fifty per cent of the time I fail in my efforts to straddle the delicious and the healthy. But I'd like to hear from other serious eaters about what they do to eat seriously without compromising their health. This serious eater wants to know.
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19 Comments:
Hey Ed,
Thanks for asking.
I've had to change a number of things over time -- more exercise, less saturated fat (read butter) and smaller portions. Eating at home also is a great way to cut calories. One of the nicer advantages of eating smaller portions is that you can try more things.
When I started to cut calories, my husband and I committed to only having pizza once a month. I know, Adam would be shocked, but we've managed it for over a year now. The beginning was tough, but now we really make a big deal over pizza night, especially if we make it at home (more control over ingredients/fat/calories/etc.
For me, it comes down to thinking in terms of calories. If I "spend" 1200 - 1500 calories a day, I'd better use those calories up in exercise and daily activity. I've also "saved" calories to spend on a food fest -- which I'll do on occasion. But the bottom line is to know (or be able to approximate) the calories in what's on my plate. Otherwise, I tend to go over, gain weight and not live in a healthy way.
It turns out that high-fiber, multi-grain, low-fat eating doesn't have to be all you do. But, if you keep to it 5 days a week, eating tasty, healthy meals all along, you can have your fries and burger on the weekend. Just make sure you build in time for an hour of strenuous exercise, both cardio and weights, because lifting weights will build muscle, which burns more calories than other tissue (all the time, not just when you're working out).
I think you're making a great start. Kudos to you for making the effort!
hereandthe at 10:04AM on 09/21/07
I don't know whether what I'm doing works, but I try to eat mostly vegetarian and load up on leafy green vegetables. Our go-to weekday dinner is pasta or rice with sauteed garlic, fresh tomatoes, some kind of leafy green, and some kind of bean (for protein).
jamieforrest at 10:07AM on 09/21/07
Hereandthe is definitely on the right track. I am fortunate enough to have both my parents around, my dad is 83, my mom is 76. My mother has more energy than I do. She goes to the gym or walks a few times a week. During the weekdays, with rare exception, she eats healthily. Low or no fat, no or low sugar(my dad is diabetic), mostly chicken or fish, lots of salad, etc. On the weekend she allows herself treats. I am not as disciplined as she is, but I am trying. I think, for the most part, healthy food can taste good. But a big ,rich, fatty steak, or a brownie sundae taste better than the healthier alternative. So deprivation is not the answer, but balance is.
Mich23 at 10:36AM on 09/21/07
Hi Ed!
As someone with a Cookie blog, I have to chime in.
In the end, I think it's calories in vs. calories out. Getting the most nutritional bang for your buck is where the challenge lies.
There are days when I overdo it or am tempted to eat too many sweets, but I usually practice moderation. The sweets always follow a high protein/low fat lunch. I like eating steamed cruciferous and/or root vegetables alongside egg white omelets with interesting salsas or flavored salts. Quesadillas made with small amounts of really good cheese are fun (again, served with a huge amount of cooked vegetables) and small paninis made with sourdough rolls or English muffins allow room for creativity.
Restaurant eating is more challenging and I generally eat a fraction of what's served. I love tapas and menus with small bites because I can order a few different things without getting full. Seems like more people are latching on to that. I sometimes wonder how many people are overweight just because they hate the idea of sending so much food back and frequently eat 4 times the calories their bodies need while dining out.
What I've noticed in my town is that the serious eaters are the healthy ones. They tend to exercise a lot, buy more fresh foods and produce and avoid fast food -- not in a snobby "Ewww, fast food" kind of way, but because it just doesn't taste that good when you've grown accustomed to better quality and fresher food. I've also noticed that a lot of my serious eater friends -- healty ones, never refuse dessert. It just goes without saying that it's something to be shared and a few bites will do.
AnnaG at 10:48AM on 09/21/07
This is a great topic! I am a serious eater but also a person who cares about nutrition and striking a balance. I do believe that nutritious food can be delicious, but one must admit that some of the most delicious things are high in fat and calories. I believe in the things previously mentioned: exercise, moderation, portion control, and also allowing yourself to indulge. I happen to love exercise so that part is easy for me. I exercise at least 4 times a week, usually for 45 min to 1hr but when I am tired for less. The thing is to go even if it's for 25 minutes. During the week, when we eat at home, we try to have foods that are delicious but not super high in fat/calories: brown rice, legumes, vegetables prepared with herbs, spices, sandwiches made at home with lean meats, chicken, and try to have variety at every meal (different types of vegetables, legumes sweet and savory flavors) to satisfy the senses. Then on weekends or when we eat out, I eat whatever most appeals but in moderation, be it a mac and cheese made with three cheeses and cream, fried foods, desserts (which I love). I find that by indulging weekly I get it out of my system. I do not feel deprived and I look forward to my home cooked nutritious meals again. It works for me.
cristi at 11:01AM on 09/21/07
I agree that it is all about balance, and especially about fitting exercise into your life. I work out 6 times a week (4 days of cardio and 2 days of strength training) and make sure to cook fresh food for my family that is both tasty and healthy. Fresh vegetables, fresh herbs, whole grains, with healthy amounts of "extras" (fats such as olive oil, butter, cheese, nuts, etc.) to enhance, rather than mask, the fresh ingredients. I try not to cut anything out completely so that we never feel deprived - an occasional outing for a good burger and fries is fine if we don't do it regularly. I have to admit, I used to be able to eat a lot healthier before getting married, now it is all about convincing my husband to go to the gym as well as cooking food that is tasty enough to appeal to him but is still nutritious.
mrsbao at 11:13AM on 09/21/07
Exercise is a key component that I didn't talk about in my original post. My exercise regimen consists of twice weekly squash games. I know I need to exercise more, but I find it difficult to fit in more exercise time into the 12-14 hour days we all put in at Serious Eats. I may buy a bike this weekend and start commuting to work. It's only about four miles each way, but I think it will help.
Ed Levine at 11:39AM on 09/21/07
I think it is possible to eat healthy, and have it be delicious. I agree with everyone who has mentioned balance, moderation, exercise etc. - those are a given. But when it comes to the actual food, I think a lot of people don't realize how to make "healthy" food taste good. Don't forget about garlic, lemon, spices, etc, which flavour food, and make it delectable, even if it is lower-fat, lower-sugar, etc. For instance, for lunch today I am making a lentil and rice soup - the quintessential "healthy" food (whole grains, legumes, vegetables, etc.) But - with indian spices and garlic, and the creamy texture which comes from cooking the lentils, this soup tastes amazing! Health food isn't all about plain oats and dry bread. Experimenting and having fun with your food is part of feeling good about yourself and being healthy.
cordcoyle at 12:10PM on 09/21/07
my partner and i have done the same sort of things. we mostly eat at home so we can keep an eye on our calorie count and our portion size. we also try to drink tons of water and eat lots of fruit when we are craving snacks. doing this works out really well because when we are craving thai or bbq or even just a particularly heavy hitting snack we feel like we can indulge because we've been "good" otherwise. also, watching what we eat works way better for us than attempting exercise.
lexophile at 1:12PM on 09/21/07
Making the lifestyle switch to eating local has put a huge emphasis on fruits and vegetables in our diet. Sourcing naturally raised meats has also cut out saturated fats. We were going for local and for quality, which we got, the bonus was how healthy it made our diet. As far as philosophy, moderation is good. Save up for those incredible feasts, it makes them even more special. Love fresh vegetables and fruits. Portion size. Basically, here is my philosophy and I know there will be days for flourless chocolate cake, too. Just not every day.
ExpatChef at 1:20PM on 09/21/07
I'd also like to add that eating a wide range of foods with varying textures, flavors and colors helps with eating healthier. If your palate is bored, you're less likely to slip back to the cheese burgers and pizzas.
kitchenbea at 2:44PM on 09/21/07
As Jack Nicholson said in ‘The Witches of Eastwick,” “When I die I want to be sick, not healthy.” There is some twisted logic to that statement. I think I’d just clarify that I want to die sick, but at an old and respectable age. I don’t want to die of clogged arteries when I’m only 50 years of age so some preventative steps are required.
Unfortunately my partner Ed comes from a long bloodline of high cholesterol guys. His father required bypass surgery in his early 60’s. And most unfortunate of all was when Ed was told that he needed double bypass surgery at the ripe old age of 47! There is no greater motivation to change your eating habits than having your ribs opened up like swinging saloon doors. Especially when you are so young!
Our diet is what I would now label as “sensible.” We don’t shun In and Out burgers, occasional batches of home made ice cream, or a juicy rib eye steaks. We just settled into a pattern where they are balanced out with a heart-healthy diet. We don't follow any diets per say and we don't restrict any food groups. If your diet is "forced" and unnatural it's bound to fail. I find that when I cook at home, it’s very easy to prepare healthy food. I have no problem making lean chicken, beef, pork and fish preparations that are really tasty, and still low in fat and cholesterol. That way when Friday night rolls around and the boys want to indulge in steaks and martinis we are ready! Of course, a quick hike in the neighborhood on Saturday morning helps too.
I’ve also discovered that eating patterns in motion tend to stay in motion. What I mean is that when we groom our appetites for burgers and pizza then it quickly becomes habitual and we start salivating for those foods frequently. On the flip side, once we focus on a lighter diet and navigate toward fresh healthy dishes we tend to find it easier to stick to that dietary path. It’s hard to break the pattern but once we did it wasn’t the bummer we thought it might be.
Oh, Ed's cholesterol is GREAT now and even though mine was never problematic I am enjoying lower numbers too!
Acme Instant Food at 3:15PM on 09/21/07
I would like to emphasize the importance of your point #5. As an example, I'll say that last Sunday I bought some gorgeous sweet peppers at our small Morningside Heights GreenMarket. I ate some of them raw, but I wanted to cook some in a way that would do them justice, so I pulled down my copy of "The Best Recipe," and improvised on one of their pepper variations. I sauteed the sliced peppers briefly in some olive oil, allowed them to braise in a touch of red wine vinegar for a few minutes, removed them from the pan and added some fresh oregano, then sprinkled them with some chopped Kalamata olives and a little chevre.
Oh. My. God. Not only did my entire kitchen smell like HEAVEN, but it was so delicious--and HEALTHY--that I didn't know whether to wolf it all down or slowly savor the gloriousness.
Perfect healthy ingredients, well prepared, are going to be delicious. It's a false dichotomy to believe otherwise. And, when it comes to the deliciousness of the non-healthy stuff--moderation and exercise.
klg19 at 5:54PM on 09/21/07
Great post! I too love to eat, but try to stay on the 'curvy' side rather than the 'overweight' side. Those are all really good points. I eat a ton of lovely fruit and veggies from my CSA and try not to eat too much refined stuff. I totally agree with the not wasting calories. I think one of my challenges is eating when I'm bored/tired. I'm interested to see how I do now that I've started formal culinary training, whether I can still stay a healthy size.
Cycling over 200 miles a week sure helps too!!
jennywenny at 6:20PM on 09/21/07
Another fantastic post, Ed. I feel like you recited my personal and professional mantra in your sentence, "melding 'delicious' and 'healthy' into a way to eat and live that allows me to derive great pleasure from food while remaining somewhat vigilant about my health."
As a food writer and recipe developer I've gotten annoyed at publications for taking one stance or the other, unwittingly translating "healthy" into deprivation and "enjoyment" into gluttony, and I've defined my career by trying to bridge the two and prove that healthy can be delicious, and enjoyment can be healthy.
I agree with a lot of your points -- moderation, absolutely. Quality of ingredients, totally. I'd also add that amping up the ratio of vegetables to protein and carbs has helped me enormously. Now, when I make pasta with broccoli rabe, I halve the amount of pasta and double the amount of broccoli rabe (or throw in an extra head of broccoli). And I apply that principle to almost anything that hits my plate. Dole out twice as much grilled eggplant and take one less lamb chop, etc.
Also . . . experimenting with whole grains has been surprisingly enjoyable for me. Using steel cut oatmeal or barley instead of arborio, for instance, makes a fantastic risotto. And quinoa has become the go-to mix-in for my infant daughter's (and now our) dinners.
Anyway, I've written a bunch of articles about this very subject if you'd like to peruse . . . at www.liahuber.com.
swirlingnotions at 6:29PM on 09/21/07
i've lost about 50 pounds in the last three years, mostly by being very diligent about going to the gym and running three miles on most days. some other things i've learned to do: eat lots of salad before dinner and dress it with just fancy vinegar, no oil; cut out anything that i won't miss, for instance i don't have wine with dinner any more, since i'm essentially indifferent to alcohol; substitute frozen berries with milk and sugar on top for ice cream after dinner; indulge my sweet tooth with sour belts and lemonheads instead of chocolate or cake; allow myself a treat only on days when i work out; eat low fat fage yogurt since it's so delicious i don't care that it's low fat, ditto for ronnybrook milk; train myself not to drink my calories, so no sugar in my coffee and tea; pack my own lunch and start with a huge container of cut up raw veggies {carrots, cucumbers, snap peas, fennel, red peppers, jicama, etc.} and chow that down first; make regular visits to the greenmarket so that i'm eating the most delicious produce available; have old fashioned 30 minute oatmeal with walnuts on top for breakfast, no butter, no sweetener; keep the butter in the freezer so i'm not tempted to slather it on everything in sight; portion control in restaurants {two appetizers instead of a starter and a main, no dessert if i've had bread, or vice versa}; cook at home as much as possible and save restaurants for special occasions; limit meat eating to a couple of times a week.
i'm NOT interested in eating substitutes for real food -- no low fat mayo, diet coke or snackwells for me!
i'm with you -- i want a cheeseburger and fries and i'll have them once in a while. but i'll try to stop when i'm full and leave at least half the fries {i can never manage to leave even a scrap of burger...}
cybercita at 8:26PM on 09/21/07
I love food. But I also love marathon running, cycling and competitive horse riding. Do you see the connection here?
choc_puddin at 6:38AM on 09/24/07
Chef Mihoko Obunai at Repast Restaurant in Atlanta features a daily macrobiotic menu that's incredibly delicious, and this is coming from a girl that incorporates Benton's bacon fat into everything I cook.
sawyerriley at 1:40PM on 09/24/07
I'm with all the posters who point out that healthy food can be delicious. It is a little disturbing that the general attitude is that healthy = boring. Sure, it can be hard in a restaurant to be eating steamed veggies and chicken while everyone else is having fat laden food. But when I cook at home I manage amazing food, full of flavor and high in nutrients. Food I think about all day at work and can't wait to get home to, rather than about junk food.
Then, as everyone else points out, it is possible to have those "bad" foods in moderation. And lots of exercise to top it all off.
KateC at 1:55PM on 09/25/07