PrintSerious Sandwiches: Crabby Jack's Duck Po'Boy
Photograph courtesy of Jason Perlow
Hoagies. Subs. Heroes. It doesn’t matter what you call them, they’re delicious. And every week, we honor a Serious Sandwich—or in this week’s case a serious po’boy.
The Po’Boy in New Orleans is a sacred object, like the cheesesteak in Philly, or the pastrami sandwich in New York City. There are many theories as to the origin of the name, but many agree that it dates back to the early 1920s when free sandwiches were given out to striking workers, dubbed poor boys (shortened to po’boy by the thick Louisiana accent).
And while some will argue about where the name came from, nobody argues about how it’s built. You start with a French-style baguette, pile it high with cold cuts, hot roast beef or fried seafood (usually oysters or shrimp), and “dress” it with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo. There have been some more famous variations, but when you want something truly unique, Crabby Jack’s is the place to go.
Located in Jefferson, a few miles west of New Orleans, Crabby Jack’s is Jacques-Imo chef Jack Leonardi’s casual lunchtime take-out shack. It has all the New Orleans standbys—but people in the know go straight for the duck po’boy. It’s served roast-beef style, with a generous heaping of warm duck that’s been slow cooked until it is ridiculously tender and then shredded. The po’boy is then topped with “debris," a brown gravy made from the cooking juices, studded with bits of duck meat and fat.
Don’t let the richness discourage you from getting the thing dressed. A po’boy ain’t a po’boy without lettuce, tomato, and pickles—and the mayo mixes with the gravy to make the perfect sauce. The only trick is to eat the whole thing before the “debris” soaks through the bread and turns the entire thing to mush. Somehow, for me, that's never been an issue.
Crabby Jack’s
Address: 428 Jefferson Highway, Jefferson LA 70121
Phone: 504-833-2722
About the author: As the proprietor of Midtown Lunch, Zach Brooks knows sandwiches inside and out.
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2 Comments:
There may not be a finer poor boy in the city. (And yes, I say poor boy b/c that is what it was when the Martin brothers served them to the striking streetcar drivers in 1929) There are some good back ups around though. The paneed rabbit with creole mustard served right there at Crabby Jack's is one.
Of course, many will debate who has the best roast beef in town, but I like Parasol's in the Irish Channel. I am not claiming it is the best, but it is certainly up there.
syoung68 at 3:50PM on 07/05/07
LOVE the duck po-boy, and the rabbit is good as well. They often run out of duck, so the roast beef is actually a good substitute (lots of gravy, very rich meat). I'd also recommend the shrimp po-boy, if fried shrimp's your thing, with swiss cheese.
Any Domilise's fans? Love them, too.
kmnola at 12:03AM on 07/06/07