PrintLambrusco: If Sweetness Is Wrong, I Don’t Want to Be Right
If Chianti can overcome the image of a dripping wax candle stuck into a fiasco (the traditional straw covered Chianti bottle with low-quality connotations) then why can’t Lambrusco? In a recent article by Eric Asimov, he points out that Lambrusco is worth drinking and mentions the struggle it has had in overcoming an image as a commercial, low-quality product.
And so Lambrusco became a joke among serious wine-lovers, who had little use for it other than comparing memories, as with Boone’s Farm or Lancer’s rosé, of their introductions to the pleasures of hangovers. The time has come to consign this unfortunate impression of Lambrusco to the same locked attic trunk that holds the '70s disco wear.
Many ubercommericialized wines, like Lambrusco and Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay leave residual sugar to appeal to mass palates. Because of this, in high-fullutin' wine snobbery circles, any sweetness in wine is considered objectionable. Yet as a wine professional and avid drinker, I can attest to the food-pairing possibilities with an off-dry wine, especially with spicy food. And a wine with some sweetness, like a classic German Riesling, usually have less alcohol, meaning you can drink more without unwanted side effects. Sure, some dry Lambruscos can be quite good, earthy, and complex, but an off-dry Lambrusco, like a sound if simple Beaujolais, is one of the true simple pleasures in the world of wine.
For information about the region and traditional food pairings check out the informative italianmade.com.
About the author: Joe Campanale is a sommelier at New York City's Babbo and is the food and wine editor at Debonair Magazine. Joe is a Certified Wine Educator, Certified Sommelier, and is pursuing his master's degree in Food Studies at New York University.
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3 Comments:
The best bottle of Lambrusco I ever had was from Puerto Rico. A friend bought it and gave it to me knowing I love Lambrusco. It had on the bottle not to be taken out of the country in some officious wording. I know why it was the best I ever had. Over the years I forgot the name. I never forgot the taste. Lambrusco lovers unite. If we want more lambrusco we need to tell the vitners to produce this.
I am all about italian wines. I welcome any comments as to bottles you have tried and want to recommend.
JerzeeTomato at 2:01AM on 07/23/07
Ciao Jerzee! Try and track down a 'brachetto'. It's sweet, red, bubbly and meant to be eaten with dry, hard salami's. Sounds odd, but it's really delicious.
Please, be quiet about Lambruscos....the price will go up!!
Judith klinger at 12:15PM on 07/23/07
Jerzee, have you ever tried any of the Lambruscos from Medici Ermete? Mozza Pizzeria in LA serves their very nice dry 'Quercioli Secco'. IMHO it goes really, really well with Mozza's pizzas. I have yet to see this or any of their other Lambruscos in stores; see: www.vinofrizzante.com
winelover at 6:34PM on 09/04/07