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Ed McFarland Holds a Press Conference: Life Goes On

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I visited both Ed's Lobster Bar and Pearl Oyster Bar yesterday, in search of a glimmer of sanity and truth in what is obviously a sea of resentment and betrayal. I found out that, yes, Ed's uses the same toilet paper as Pearl. And that he makes a good lobster roll with thicker french fries than Pearl's. And that, yes, his Caesar salad does have English muffin croutons, just like Pearl's. And that Pearl's fried oyster roll is so deliciously crunchy, crisp, and briny I could have it every day for lunch.

But I also found a beleaguered Ed McFarland, in way over his head as he tries to make sense of all this. McFarland held a press conference in which (according to Grub Street) he said the following: "I believe her action has no merit. I harbor no ill will and wish her safely to port." His lawyer, Alan Serrins, followed with the following bit of disingenuousness: "I didn't know Caesar salad and lobsters are protected under the intellectual-property laws."

I found an energized and agonized Rebecca Charles feeling she had made her point in suing not-so-poor Ed.

What are we to take away from this situation? What do we really know? Charles feels betrayed and violated by McFarland. He was her right-hand man for six years, with complete and unfettered access to her creativity, recipes, craftsmanship, and even the combination to her safe. Charles is a smart, fiercely independent, tough-minded chef and businessperson who misplaced her trust when she gave her chief lieutenant all that access. McFarland, bereft of his own ideas, decided to open what is, for all intents and purposes, a clone of Pearl.

I have no idea how this will play out in court. I am not a lawyer specializing in intellectual property. But what we are witnessing is a culinary divorce being played out in the public eye. And who's going to benefit if Charles does win? I suppose chef-restaurateurs will feel that their former employees can't just copy their concepts when they open their own places. Charles might end up with some money and a keen sense of vindication. But in the end, nobody is going to win, except maybe (once again) the lawyers. Ed McFarland will still be an unimaginative schnook (which in and of itself is not a crime) with or without his own restaurant. Charles will continue to serve terrific food at Pearl while she hopefully gains closure, moves on, and ponders her next move.

This fight is not about diners enjoying unfettered access to delectable lobster rolls and Caesar salads. It's about a violation of trust, resentment, and betrayal behind the counter and the stove at a couple of restaurants in New York.

25 Comments:

hmm sounds like Pepe's in CT should contact the IP lawyer ;-)

So which is better, Pearl Oyster Bar in NYC or Swan Oyster Depot in SF? Given that Charles admits to modelling her restaurant on the latter I'm curious as to whether she upstages her inspiration.

As far as her copycats in the city, in the end, the customers will vote with their forks, just as they did in the cupcake wars betwen Magnolia Bakery and its rivals.

Pearl is a better restaurant. It's also much more ambitious. Swan is the place to go for raw West coast oysters and crab louie salad, it really is just an oyster bar run by a family that have been wholesaling fish in SF for a long time. They also do a big retailing business delivering their fish to SF's upper crust families.

I think Rebecca used Swan as a jumping-off point for her own ideas. They don't do much cooking at Swan other than soup.

I love them both. I hit Swan every time I go to SF. If you haven't been it's a must.

Ed's caesar salad has the english muffin croutons in it just like pearls? You mean the same caesar salad rebecca admitted in the NY Times piece her mother copied from a restaurant in LA?

"Pearl is a better restaurant. It's also much more ambitious. Swan is the place to go for raw West coast oysters and crab louie salad, it really is just an oyster bar run by a family that have been wholesaling fish in SF for a long time. They also do a big retailing business delivering their fish to SF's upper crust families.

I think Rebecca used Swan as a jumping-off point for her own ideas. They don't do much cooking at Swan other than soup."


Thanks you VERY much for that post... the Swan argument has been parroted ad nauseum by people who apparently do not know what they are talking about, knowing nothing baout what Swan actually is.


glad that is out in the open...

Ed Levine I'm shocked to hear that you think Pearl is a "better restaurant" than Swan, a restaurant most people in the food business find much more exciting, and which is, what all this hullabaloo is about, genuine. The counter banter, the fish, and the feel at Swan are irreplacable, which is one reason Charles' suit seems so baseless. You can't copy feeling.

As a consumer I'm pro-competition. Businesses outside of food service don't operate this way. They patent, trademark, or copyright if they want to protect something. Do we really want a set of de facto restaurant monopolies? How is this good for me? And don't give me a 'this stifles creativity crap'. Restaurants still will innovate to compete without any protection.

I think looking at this as an IP issue based on the recipes is irrelevant. The way that Rebecca Charles would make her case is that Pearl is a brand, and that Ed's is infringing upon her brand. For better or for worse, big-brand corporations have set precedents where copyright infringement doesn't have to happen - anything suggesting an association that doesn't exist (e.g. an organic fertilizer company using the same colors on their package as Miracle Gro does) is a possible brand infringement. It does sound like Ed's is infringing upon Pearl's brand - though who knows if the lawyers for a small (albeit successful) restaurant like Pearl can make the case the way the lawyers for multinational conglomerates do?

Ed, this is your third article on Serious Eats about the dispute; all three of them have been decidedly in Charles's corner. On another comment thread you wrote, "Yes, I am friendly with Rebecca, but I don't know why that's germane to this discussion." Could you elaborate on your relationship? It makes it hard to figure out how much of your opinion is colored by your personal relationship.

I'm surprised that, among all the brouhaha, I haven't seen/heard any mention of Mary's Fish Camp. (Unless I just missed it). Isn't it part of the story?

Just, ya know, saying.

I don't think there's even a brand involved. Jasper White has been doing upscale New England food for decades. (And I can recommend his Summer Shacks in Cambridge and Boston.) If you're in business and good at what you do, someone is going to try to knock it off. Yes, it's a pity that someone she trusted decided to do the same sort of thing, but when she admits so many influences - including getting the recipe for the Caesar salad from her mom who had it from an LA restaurant - then getting mad about someone "copying" her just doesn't sound quite as legitimate.

Great site, by the way - I've never been here before, but will definitely point to it from my own blog.

But I also found a beleaguered Ed McFarland, in way over his head as he tries to make sense of all this. McFarland held a press conference in which (according to Grub Street) he said the following: "I believe her action has no merit. I harbor no ill will and wish her safely to port." His lawyer, Alan Serrins, followed with the following bit of disingenuousness: "I didn't know Caesar salad and lobsters are protected under the intellectual-property laws."

How is that disingenuous? I'm an attorney, and I can tell you that, unless McFarland signed some sort of non-disclosure agreement when he worked for POB, Caesar salad, lobsters and other recipes most definitely are NOT protected under the intellectual property laws. His lawyer is absolutely right.

Her only claim is trade dress infringement -- i.e., that the overall look and feel of her place is inherenly distinctive, and that his place is so similar to hers that it could confuse or deceive customers into thinking that the restaurants are affiliated. The recipes and food will likely play only a minor role in this analysis. I seriously doubt she can win given that the look and style of the restaurant isn't really all that distinctive.

I have to agree with greenfield -- your take on this case is pretty biased.

I find it trully amazing how some one like Rebecca Chales can be so shallow when she has clearly taken her ideas and inspirations from other Chefs. In an article posted in the San Francisco chronicle by Michael Bauer (www.sfgate.com) he wanted to get a chef's perspective on the issue so he went straight to the top and asked Thomas Keller his opinion. Any one in this industry knows who this is. His response was and this is a direct quote from the article, "I think it's a bit absurd and laughable in the face of the industry we're in -- hospitality. It's all about sharing what we do and sharing what we know."


Three cheers to Thomas Keller and all the others who realize how ridiculous this really is. It's such a shame that people have nothing better to do with there time than to come up with bogus law suits instead of being happy for people they have mentored especially since it's clear that she didn't invent any of her recipes and they are all borrowed from somewhere else even if they were modified. Isn't that what all chefs do?

As I've said before I am friendly with Rebecca, but you don't have to be a pal of hers to find what Ed McFarland did problemmatic. I find the whole thing sad and depressing for all involved. I wish Ed hadn't opened Ed's and I wish Rebecca hadn't sued. As I said in my post, there aren't going to be any winners here.

I'm sure both restaurants will see a boost in business, which is most likely her agenda anyways. Yes, it sucks that someone you trusted doesn't have a dream of his own or imagination ...but please using the court to tell him he's a slimeball? Pathetic.

In the bread baking world we have the guild, in which our main purpose is to share ideas (formulas/recipies) & educate other so we can have great artisan bakeries everywhere.

No matter how hard someone tries....Swan Oyster can never be replicated.....& it's true it's not a restaurant..it's an seafood joint. Anchor Steam Draft & crab @ 8am.....a beautiful joint!

Ed-Greenfield brings up a strong point. Obviously your friendship with Ms. Charles is creating a bias in your writings on this subject. Let me ask you a question, clearly you reached out to Ms. Charles while writing these articles given the quotes that were not in the NYTimes article. However, you don't make it clear if you reached out to Mr. McFarland? So I'm going to ask, did you? Did you talk to him while you ate at his restaurant yesterday or get his side of the story? If you did, great, please let us know his side, but if not, then your credibility as a fair and balanced writer just went down the tubes.

The real loser in this story is not who ever loses the lawsuit, but the consumer.

I find the whole bias thing crap. Ed's relationship with Rebecca doesn't really play into this at all..my gawd he's calling her out for this tomfoolery just as much as he's called out Ed for his restaurant "Ed's uses the same toilet paper as Pearl". I'm reading this article to say....Quit taking yourselves so goddamn seriously...it ain't brain surgery. But please if you're going to call yourself a chef & open your own place....use your own damn imagination & passion.

The point,......this guy is a unimaginitive schmuck & this is pretty silly.

Do you disagree?

Ed is right - any psychologist will tell you this - this is not about intellectual property. This is about " a violation of trust, resentment, and betrayal ". When we feel hurt and betrayed we all are inclined to go out on financially and emotionally exhausting campaigns which make no sense commercially.

This is also about free publicity. Mary's Fish Camp, which has not been mentioned, should be furious.

I think the people who invented the buffalo wings have a huge case. Since they serve them virtually everywhere. People copy food and recipes all the time. Hell I use one of Emeril's fried chicken recipes (one of 100's) and call it mine. I also agree that I feel bad that the trust issue was breeched.
If I were Ed I would make croutons out of something else and put my own mark on the world.

I agree with Kim Nyland; jumping on any possible, theoretical hint of bias is just far too easy, especially in this all-about-taking-sides situation.

"This fight is not about diners enjoying unfettered access to delectable lobster rolls and Caesar salads. It's about a violation of trust, resentment, and betrayal behind the counter and the stove at a couple of restaurants in New York."

Not to me it isn't. What if Rebecca wins, this changes everything. What if there was only one place in NYC where you could experience a "seafood shack".
Not fair, not right, I demand unfettered access to lobster rolls!
Their squabbles are nothing to me. Violation of trust? Should he have just stayed there the rest of his life, working for her?

Not to me it isn't. What if Rebecca wins, this changes everything. What if there was only one place in NYC where you could experience a "seafood shack".

Exactly. I think IP rights have been pushed too far already (a copyright term of life plus 75 years?), and a victory by POB could have serious consequences. Everyone steals from everyone else -- that's how ideas and art (and cuisine) evolve. Allowing someone to own the right to a restaurant concept could really stifle creativity and innovation.

Maybe McFarland violated her trust. Maybe he's a worldclass jerk. But IMO she crossed the line when she filed the lawsuit.

So why, can you tell me, why has this garnered three articles here when there is NO new information? Get on with it till there is actually something new to report!!!

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