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The Hot Truck


The Hot Truck
Address: Parks at 635 Stewart Avenue, Ithaca NY 14850, on Cornell University's West Campus [map]
Phone: 607-273-1111

20070222beautyshot.jpg
Photographs by Adam Kuban

20070222front.jpgIt was late last Friday evening and I was on the phone with my girlfriend's sister after having recently arrived in Ithaca, New York, for a weekend visit. "Drive up to campus, and ask any student. Everybody knows where it is," Sis said. "We'll meet you there in 15 minutes."

Armed with that tip and a simple map drawn by the motel desk clerk, we set out on the snowy streets hoping the pavement had been sufficiently cleared of last week's slippery precip. Our destination: The Hot Truck.

Claire and I had first heard about the Hot Truck from her sister, a first-year architecture student at Cornell University, the last time Sis was in New York City, where we live. "You have to visit me me and try it," she said, noting that its French-bread pizza subs would be something I'd be especially interested in as editor of Slice. They work out of a big truck parked on campus, Sis said, and it's wildly popular despite—or perhaps, more accurately, because of—the fact that it's only open for a few hours from 9 or 10 p.m. on.

Also: "It's cheap late-night food for drunk kids."

Finding the campus was a snap, but the Hot Truck's exact coordinates were a little more elusive. After navigating Cornell's steep, snaking streets till well past the appointed meeting time ("I can find it," I insisted), we finally pulled up alongside a couple of party-bound sorority girls schlepping through the snow ("Let's just ASK someone!" Claire said).

"You want the Hot Truck?" they asked. "Oh my God! It's just down the street! It's FREEZING! Give us a ride down the hill and we'll show you where it is!" The girls piled in the car, clearly unconcerned with personal safety—Claire and I probably registered as harmless, decked out as we were in matching crazy person hats. That, and our unexpected passengers reeked of alcohol, which no doubt impaired their judgment.

As we rounded a bend on Stewart Avenue, the Hot Truck came into view, a fluorescent glow reflecting off the snow it was mired in. It was open. What a relief—we were both hungry from the trip upstate but were perhaps more eager to try the pioneering pizza subs that have been served from this vehicle since 1960.

Pioneering? Yes. If you've ever eaten a Stouffer's French bread pizza, you owe it to the Hot Truck. It's said that Stouffer's copied the idea after a Cornell alumnus asked the company to make a frozen version of what Hot Truck founder Bob Petrillose called the Poor Man's Pizza (aka a "PMP").

Petrillose invented the PMP in 1960, when he noticed cash-strapped college kids more often ordered slices of pizza than whole pies from his family's pizzeria. If all he had to do was reheat the product, why not take the show on the road and park where the market was? (Petrillose retired and sold the truck to longtime friend and Shortstop Deli owner Albert Smith in 2000.) The PMP and its several variations—which make for an alphabet soup of a menu (right; click to enlarge)—are simple in concept: A third of a loaf of light, airy Ithaca Bakery French bread is halved horizontally, spread with a generous amount of pizza sauce and mozzarella, baked open-face until the bread is satisfyingly crisp, and then folded over to make the whole thing easily portable. Permutations include the WGC (Wet Garlic Cheese), the MBC (MeatBall Cheese), the TMBC (Triple MeatBall Cheese), and an extravaganza known as a "Sui" (short for Suicide—garlic French bread loaded with sauce, mushrooms, sausage, pepperoni, and mozzarella).

20070222mewithsub.jpgFoolishly, I ordered a Full Sui (a half loaf of bread)—I didn't want to look like the novice Hot Trucker that I am by ordering a Half Sui. I should have paid more attention to Sis and her boyfriend, Hot Truck veterans both. They were splitting an MBC—and they ordered from the RTO Menu (Ready to gO), which put subs in their hands almost instantly. I can't imagine, however, that their RTO MBC was as crisp as our baked-to-order pizza subs (Claire ordered the Grand PMP, a PMP on a half-loaf as opposed to the usual third-loaf).

We scrambled up the snow-covered hill to nearby Alice Cook House, where an unwitting Cornell student buzzed us in, allowing us to eat our fare in the warmth of the dorm's lounge area, replete with roaring fireplace. Leaving a pile of crumbs from the crisp baked bread of our subs, we exited the building 20 minutes later, completely full and warm inside and out.

The sandwiches were fantastic, no doubt. But, like generations of Cornell students, I'm sure the Hot Truck's deliciousness had as much to do with context as it did with flavor. How could you not love a quirky truck on a cold night after a long evening of travel (or studying—or partying)? As Claire and I drove back down the hill to our lodging, I was already dreaming of my next Hot Truck meal, envious of the Big Red students and their fine little four-wheeled institution.

Is it crazy to consider attending grad school based on access to a rolling restaurant?


About the author: Adam Kuban is the managing editor of Serious Eats. As editor and founding publisher of pizza blog Slice, he loves pizza in all its crusty, saucy, cheesy forms.


References and Bonus Material
Hot Truck info and menu, everything2.com; via Serious Eater Dan Dickinson in our Talk section
Shortstop Deli, Roadfood.com
Keep on truckin', foodmanagement.com
Shortstop Deli, current Hot Truck operator
CU alums hope to make the Hot Truck's subs a national obsession, The Cornell Chronicle

11 Comments:

Oh the memories!!!! PMP Pep at 1am. I had the fortune (whether good or bad) to have a view of the Hot Truck from my freshman dorm window. I think it was responsible for my entire freshman 15!

Where's the [this is good] button? (Perhaps [this is tasty]?)

In any case, [this is good].

Thanks, Dan, for the [this is good] props and the info on the Hot Truck. Incidentally, I also tried Louie's Lunch, and based on the respective (though admittedly limited range) of food products I tried, the Hot Truck is vastly superior. I had a Tully Burger at Louie's, and though it was cheap, it was not a good burger. I'll have to hope and imagine that Louie's other sandwiches are better than the burger.

Reading the article and watching the video reminded me of my hometown and it's famous sandwich. I grew up in Des Moines Iowa and it seemed like every bar that had food or resturaunt in town had their own verison of a "Guinea Grinder" . Yeah I know it's supposed to be a deragatory term but swear to God there are still many many places that still have the sandwich and still call it the "Guinea Grinder" (most either owned by or origianlly started by local Italians by the way.) Many use the famous Graziano's Bros hot sausage. Basically it is the very same sandwich as featured here except the only way you could get it was with a hot sausage base. You could add extras of course, like mushrooms, peppers, onions etc. The basic sanwich however was a split chewy "krispy Krust" hoagie or open faced "Krispy Krust" bread filled with the hot sausage, covered with pizza sauce and then mozzarella chesee and baked open faced in the pizza oven. To this day I buy Graziano's sauage and bring it back to Omaha and make my own version of the "Guinea Grinder". Go Hot Truck! I love the concept.

I vaguely remember the Hot Truck from back in the very early 80's. Stumbling along after bar hopping or tripping along on a cold fall or winter night, and stuffing my face under the fluorescent glare with my buddies. I wasn't a student... more like a homeless couch surfer crashing with friends for a semester and enjoying the faux college life. All the while collecting unemployment and living high on the hog. Those were the good ole days. Now whenever I need a quick snack I make my own version of the PMP or whatever here at home and flash right back to those mildly insane but fun filled 80's.

I went to Cornell from '95 to '00 – back in the days when Bob still owned and operated the truck. For the next several years following my time at Cornell, I continued to make visits to the hot truck – averaging 6 or 7 visits a years, during which time the truck was no longer owned or operated by Bob. I visited again about 2 years ago, and finally this past year. In total, I have eaten at the Hot Truck over 400 times (which included a stretch of 65 straight evenings).

I tell you that not to brag… but just to lend some credence to my perspective on the Hot Truck. Needless to say, I am a big Hot Truck fan. Rather, I was a big hot truck fan. Although I still enjoy a hot truck sandwich, in my opinion, it is a shell of its former self when Bob was still there running and operating the joint.

The reason is simple. Bob built his life around the Hot Truck, striving to put out a very, very high quality product. He was a permanent fixture in the truck, rarely missing a day, and making sandwiches from the time the truck arrived at it’s spot – around 10pm… till the truck closed and drove away for the evening – ranged from 2:30 till around 5am. In spite of the late hours, he and his wife would make may of the ad-on ingredients in their home during the course of the day – which included amazing home made meatballs and sausages.

On probably half of my hot truck visits, I entered the truck to talk to bob and watch my sandwich being prepared. At the time I was at Cornell, many students would do this. Bob knew most of the regulars’ names, would ask how you were doing, and then would recount stories of his past 40+ years. He would also make fun of the drunk idiots outside (I was often drunk myself… but it was still funny to watch). There are really too many stories to recount, but anyone who experienced the banter or enjoyment of watching Bob make your sandwich on a late evening understands what I am talking about.

In many ways, the Hot Truck and Bob were inseparably linked. To have one without the other really doesn’t make much sense. I won’t really disparage the current Hot Truck or it’s owners – I am kind of happy it didn’t close and that there is some bit left of the old truck… but, anyone who’s had a sandwich recently, who ate there regularly during Bob’s tenure, understands that the love, devotion, consistency, and high quality that he provided is simply no longer there.

Rob

P.S. For those NYC pizza lovers out there – the experience was very similar to that at DiFara’s pizza…in terms of the ambience, and the intangibles that made the hot truck such a special place while Bob was working there. It’s kind of difficult to imagine DiFara’s operating at the same level, with the same passion, and with the same character, without the presence of Mr. Demarco, isn’t it?

Makes sense crob77. As I was reading, I began making the Di Fara analogy, and then i got to your PS. Understandable. I wish I could have had the Hot Truck when Mr. Petrillose was operating it.

I was at Cornell from 85-89 and I can relate totally to crob77. Still, just the sight of the thing makes me giggly happy.

Yeah. Whatcha gonna do? In the end i'm happy it's still there... It's interesting to note that the prices have almost doubled in the past 6 years... meaning that it is much more financially burdensome to go there multiple times per week.

Wow. Not sure why I didn't look at the youtube video before writing my comment. That's really interesting.... and I think it kind of captures what I was saying. Whenever in the truck, there was always interesting banter with Bob... he would recounting stories, or what not (such as the Howard Stern story). Incidentally... notice how Bob precisely puts on the pepperoni -- even though that sandwich will ultimately get folded up and topped with a variety of other ingredients. (that's the kind of attention to detail i'm talking about)

Based on the badges people were wearing in the video (saying class of 92 or 97) it appears the video was shot during reunion week in '97... so that would be in June '97 sometime.

Also, just to add a little more depth to the video, notice how the guy taking the orders keeps kind of staring at the people making the video? Based on my experience, this was most likely not due to any interest in the filming or video, but because they were kind of being annoying in discussing sandwich names (pmp, mbc, etc), and therefore he couldn't hear people's orders. Incidentally, that guy's family (the one taking the orders) owned a major distributorship for snapple.... and if i recall, he graduated from Cornell, and stayed in Ithaca, in part, just to work at the hot truck for a couple of years.

As I lived on North Campus for my four years on The Hill, I usually ate at Louie's. When compared to Hot Truck, one isn't better than the other, just different. Louie's offers a wide range of sandwiches and other items. If you ever make it back, you must try (in this order of priority) a Maven (a chicken sub with Buffalo wings sauce, blue cheese dressing, BBQ sauce, lettuce, and tomato). Other great items include the Natewich (bagel, ham, cheese, tomato, egg, pepper), German Fries (french fries, chopped sausage links, and kraut), and Chicken Cordon Bleu subs (chicken, ham, swiss, blue cheese dressing, tomato, lettuce).

Still, I loved Hot Truck equally. Despite living on North, I often schlepped down in the middle of winter, down the slope to wait 30 minutes in a blizzard for a Little Sicillian: third loaf of garlic bread with meatballs, cheese, sausage and BBQ potato chips. *drools*

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