What's Your Favorite Food Glossy?
Food Glossies Trumped by a "T"
I'm a compulsive reader of the food glossies: Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, and Saveur. Aren't you? Each has its virtues, though I can't say that any one of them really speaks to me. I like Gourmet's food politics stories and some of its writers (Jane and Michael Stern, John T. Edge, Calvin Trillin), but I don't share Ruth Reichl's enthusiasm for hiring as many novelists as she can to write stories for her. I used to look forward to reading Pete Wells' column in Food & Wine, but now that he's gone I'm sure I'm going to find Food & Wine's penchant for celebritizing everything (It's the In Style of food magazines) a little hard to take. I wish Bon Appetit had a funkier, more real voice and take on everything, but I don't want it to become Saveur, which takes realness to unnecessary, unusaable heights.
This obsession I have with the food glossies makes it all the more surprising that the Times magazine supplement, "T," this past Sunday put out an issue that was essentially another food glossy, albeit with a stylish and stylized bent, that was compulsively, pleasurably readable in a way that the food glossies rarely are.
The highlights of the issue: Sara Lyall's piece on London restaurant critics, Heidi Julavits' (yes I know she's an acclaimed young novelist)
funny and wise story on the groundbreaking year-round greenhouse growers in Maine, Toby Cecchini's piece of Schaller & Weber's double-amoked bacon (he thinks it's so good it should be declared a controlled substance), and a funny piece about breakfast in Los Angeles. Of course the LA breakfast piece would have been a lot better without the two Hollywood types telling us they eat at the Beverly Hills every morning. Now there's a breaking bit of news. In fact Los Angeles is a very good breakfast town, and would it have killed someone to call Irene (Sherry) Virbila of the LA Times to ask her for her five favorite breakfast spots in LA.
I haven't even mentioned the best part of yesterday's issue of "T."
There are contributions by two first rate food bloggers, Graham Holliday of Noodle Pie, and Clotide Dusoulier of chocolateandzucchini Of course the Times doesn't even print the urls of their blogs, but that's another story.
What's your favorite food glossy? Tell me why.
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11 Comments:
My favorite right now is "Fine Cooking" - while I wish it were published more frequently, they always have lovely takes on seasonal dishes, plus nice reviews of kitchen gadgetry and ideas for diversifying interpretations of dishes or ingredients. The photography is crisp and unlike Conde Nast publications like Gourmet and Bon Appetit, it's also not as crammed with advertisements (I'm still kind of annoyed that BA and Gourmet have started shilling handbags, shoes and outfits in their "new finds" sections).
I also like some non-U.S. publications. Donna Hay's magazine also isn't too bad, though it's very Martha Stewart-y for the Pan Asian rim, but I've seen her produce recipes for game and things that usually don't find their way into U.S. glossies. And then, there is "Olive", which is the young and accessible UK collection of recipes and hip articles/restaurant reviews.
abiah at 9:08AM on 11/06/06
I was a huge fan of Eating Well magazine when it first appeared, and was disappointed when they let it go, only to be pleased to see it reappear a few years ago. Some of the best food journalism out there and not so much gimmicky hype about diets as much as common sense recipes and suggestions for, well, Eating Well.
TKSellman at 11:09AM on 11/06/06
I'm actually a bigger fan of "Cooks Illustrated" than the other food glossies right now. I love the hand drawn illustrations and the recipes are spot-on. Christopher Kimball isn't exactly a glamour puss, but he's smart, funny and a really good read.
Mensch71 at 11:32AM on 11/06/06
I subscribe to both Bon Appetit and Gourmet. Both I can flip through and toss in a day's time. Too many advertisements, food is too hoity toity to be practical. I used to be a avid supporter of Martha Stewart Everyday Food but that went downhill quickly too. I have to agree that Olive Magazine is the best out there...why oh why can't we have a US version?
orinky at 1:12PM on 11/06/06
As a big food writing fan, I've been horridly dismayed by the food writing in the NYT magazine. Ever since Mollly O'Neil left they haven't been able to find a consistent writer who can tell a story about people and food with a sense of humor. Amanda Hesser was winning me over with her series about meeting her husband, but seems to have lost her spark soon after her wedding (aren't we entitled to a few years of bliss before things get dull?)
Since then, the only magazine that consistently delivers on the backstory of food - the people, the history - is Savuer. Its a little over the top and impractical as a cooking magazine (I'm not tracking down malaysian fermented shrimp paste), but its generally good writing (if sometimes lacking in humor). I never cared for Bon Appetiet or Gourmet as they always seemed a bit too much in the In Style mode, selling how everything's delicious and perfect. But am I being unfair?
But instead of paying for 80 pages of advertisements, I have been happier to read the great food writing that's popping up in the blog world. Ed, I think you're great and appreciate the tips along with the sense of humor. NY Mag is has some good writing and posts everything online, and Michael Ruhlman's blog is starting to develop. So save some paper and read the crappy glossies with the endless ads when stuck in airports.
Harry at 1:39PM on 11/06/06
I like "Food & WIne," though mostly for the News and Notes section, and really only for two reasons: (1) when they feature a new food &/or dessert that is available through mail order (that was how I discovered Jo's Chocolates in California), and (2) when they recommend restaurants. I sometimes get "Bon Appetit," but I just like the restaurant reviews and their Features section. And I ordered a subscription of "Gourmet" magazine after I went to Ruth's book reading here in Miami (she was fantastic), but other than restaurant reviews, I don't get too much out of it. At times I have picked up "Choclatier," but I'm not crazy about it's format and I wish it spent more time reviewing restaurants & providing information about places they recommend to get chocolate.
progers at 2:52PM on 11/06/06
Can we put together a glossy magazine recipe? One part practicality of Cook's Ilustrated, One part fast recipes of food and wine, a dash of Lettie Teague's Educating Peter series, a little Levine, Edge, and Road Food folks, some Sietsema (Robert, that is), a dollop of Time Out NY restaurant reviewing, some Industry stuff from Matt and Ted Lee, some rotating bloggers on trends(chez pim, becks and posh, tablehopper, amateur gourmet) and an occasional celebrity or noncelebrity chef like Bourdain or David Chang writing in first person. No idea about the pictures.
I realize the combination may lead to an absurd magazine, but it would be nice to have a glossy that isn't as dowdy as Cooks and isn't as glossy as Food and Wine. We need some edge in print, not just online.
MMcCart at 6:11PM on 11/06/06
Blog Soop is my favorite food magazine!
Coming soon to the streets of NYC, a food magazine comprised entirerly of content from the City's best food bloggers.
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blogsoop at 6:58PM on 11/06/06
I'd have to say Blog Soop is my favorite food magazine!
Coming soon to the streets of New York--a glossy food magazine comprised of material from the best food bloggers in the City and around the globe.
You heard it here first!
Doug
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blogsoop at 7:06PM on 11/06/06
Food glossies sometimes look like fashion mags, and we all know how informative models can be about food trends. Right now I receive Chocolatier, Food & Family (a Kraft foods freebie with a beautiful calendar, such a deal!), Modern Baking, Sante, Fine Cooking, Cooking Pleasures, and Cuisine at Home. I am going to try Lidia Bastianch's magazine next, and get my Saveur, Gourmet, and Bon Apetit subscriptions back on track. Christmas is coming!
vidadulce at 6:07PM on 11/07/06
Food Arts is a great magazine for recipes, trends, chef moves, professionals and foodies alike. Highly recommended.
guttergour at 4:41PM on 11/09/06