July 28, 2010
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, July 23, 2010 at 9:00 AM
[Photograph: Kenji Alt]
Want more details? Here are the ins-n-outs.
- makes two 1/4 pound burgers -
Note: store-bought ground chuck can be used in place of the fresh ground, but I highly recommend grinding your own!
Ingredients
1/2 pound fresh beef chuck with plenty of fat, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided
1 large onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon ketchup
2 teaspoons sweet pickle relish
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
2 soft Hamburger buns, preferably Arnold brand
Freshly ground black pepper
8 dill pickles chips
2 quarter-inch-thick slices ripe tomato
2 leaves fresh iceberg lettuce, white core section removed, torn to bun-sized pieces
1/4 cup yellow mustard
4 slices deli-cut American Cheese
Procedure (Meat Grinder)
1. Place feed shaft, blade, and 1/4-inch die of meat grinder in freezer until well-chilled. Meanwhile, place meat chunks on rimmed baking sheet, leaving space between each piece and place in freezer for 10 minutes until meat is firm, but not frozen.
2. Combine meat in large bowl and toss to combine. Grind meat and refrigerate immediately until ready for use. Handle as gently as possible. Proceed with step three below.
Procedure (Food Processor)
1. Place bowl and blade of food processor in freezer until well-chilled. Meanwhile, place meat chunks on rimmed baking sheet, leaving space between each piece, and place in freezer for 10 minutes until meat is firm, but not frozen.
2. Combine meat in large bowl and toss to combine. Working in two batches, place meat cubes in food processor and pulse until medium-fine grind is achieved, about 8 to 10 one-second pulses, scraping down processor bowl as necessary. Refrigerate ground meat immediately until ready for use. Handle as gently as possible.
3. Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 400 degrees while you cook the onions: Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt to skillet. Reduce heat to medium low, and cook, tossing and stirring occasionally until onions are well browned, about 15 minutes. Once onions begin to sizzle heavily and appear dry, add 1 tablespoon water to skillet and stir. Continue cooking until water evaporates and onions start sizzling again. Repeat process, adding 1 tablespoon of water with each iteration until onions are meltingly soft and dark brown, about 3 times total. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
4. Make the sauce: Combine mayonnaise, ketchup, relish, sugar, and vinegar in small bowl. Stir to combine.
5. Place closed buns in preheated oven for 2 minutes until slightly darkened and crisped. Heat 1/2 teaspoon oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet or griddle over medium-high heat until shimmering. Open buns and add face-down to skillet. Toast until dark brown around the edges, about 1 minute total.
6. Form ground beef into four 2-ounce patties, using damp hands to press each into a patty about 3/16ths of an inch thick and 4 inches wide. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add remaining 1/2 teaspoon oil to pan, swirl to coat, and heat over medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Add burger patties and cook without moving until well browned and crusty on first side, about 2 1/2 minutes. While they are cooking, spread 1 tablespoon mustard on raw side of each patty with a spoon. Meanwhile, top each bottom bun with up half of spread, 4 slices pickles, 1 slice tomato, and lettuce. Flip patties with a thin spatula so mustard side is down and continue to cook for 1 minute. Top each patty with a slice of cheese. Divide onion mixture evenly between two patties. Place the other two patties directly on top of the onions , sandwiching them between the beef. Transfer patty stacks to bottom bun. Top with top bun, and serve immediately.
Follow Kenji on Facebook or Twitter. About the author: After graduating from MIT, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt spent many years as a chef, recipe developer, writer, and editor in Boston. He now lives in New York with his wife, where he runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and runs the collaborative blog GoodEater.org about sustainable food enjoyment.
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, June 10, 2010 at 9:00 AM
[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
Read all about sous-vide burgers here »
- makes four 6-ounce burgers -
Note: aromatics such as herb sprigs, whole spices, or sliced cloves of garlic may be added to the bags before sealing for extra flavor)
Ingredients
24 ounces freshly ground beef (preferably the Blue Label Burger Blend)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Aromatics as desired (optional—see note)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 slices cheese (I recommend American or cheddar)
4 soft hamburger buns, lightly toasted
Procedure
1. Divide meat into four equal 6-ounce portions and gently shape each one into a patty 4-inches wide by approximately 3/4 of an inch thick. Season generously with salt and pepper. Place patties and optional aromatics in individual sandwich-sized zipper-lock bags. Seal bags, leaving one-inch open at top corner. Slowly lower bags one at a time into pot of water by holding onto the open corner. Press air out of bag as it is submerged. Seal bag just before last corner is submerged.
2. Preheat water oven (or beer cooler) to desired final temperature (120 degrees for rare, 130 degrees for medium rare, or 140 degrees for medium). Add burgers and cook for at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours (do not cook burgers longer than 4 hours if your temperature is below 130 degrees).
3. Remove burgers from bags and carefully dry on paper towels. Season again with salt and pepper. Heat 12-inch heavy-bottomed cast iron or stainless steel skillet over high heat with vegetable oil until oil begins to smoke. Add patties and cook until well browned on first side, about 45 seconds. Flip patties (add cheese as desired) and cook until second side is well browned, about 45 seconds longer. Place patties on buns, top with condiments as desired, and serve.
About the author: After graduating from MIT, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt spent many years as a chef, recipe developer, writer, and editor in Boston. He now lives in New York with his wife, where he runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and co-writes the blog GoodEater.org about sustainable food enjoyment.
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, May 28, 2010 at 8:00 AM
More than meets the fry: Check out the science here.
- serves four -
Note: Potatoes can be frozen after step 2. To freeze potatoes, place entire sheet tray in freezer. After fully frozen, place in Ziploc bags, press out air, and freeze for up to 2 months. If cooking straight from frozen, do not cook more than 1/4 batch at a time unless you have a large vessel for deep frying, as oil temperature will drop too precipitously.
Ingredients
2 pounds russet potatoes (about 4 large), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch by 1/4-inch fries (keep potatoes stored in a bowl of water)
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
Kosher salt
2 quarts peanut oil
Procedure
1. Place potatoes and vinegar in saucepan and add 2 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 10 minutes. Potatoes should be fully tender, but not falling apart. Drain and spread on paper towel-lined rimmed baking sheet. Allow to dry for five minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat oil in 5-quart Dutch oven or large wok over high heat to 400°F. Add 1/3 of fries to oil (oil temperature should drop to around 360°F). Cook for 50 seconds, agitating occasionally with wire mesh spider, then remove to second paper-towel lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining potatoes (working in two more batches), allowing oil to return to 400°F after each addition. Allow potatoes to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Continue with step 3, or for best results, freeze potatoes at least over night, or up to 2 months.
3. Return oil to 400°F over high heat. Fry half of potatoes until crisp and light golden brown, about 3 1/2 minutes, adjusting heat to maintain at around 360°F. Drain in a bowl lined with paper towels and season immediately with kosher salt. Cooked fries can be kept hot and crisp on a wire rack set on a sheet tray in a 200°F oven while second batch is cooked. Serve immediately.
About the author: After graduating from MIT, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt spent many years as a chef, recipe developer, writer, and editor in Boston. He now lives in New York with his wife, where he runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and co-writes the blog GoodEater.org about sustainable food enjoyment.
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, April 9, 2010 at 9:00 AM
Note: Interested in learning how we developed this recipe? Read about it here.
- makes 4 half-pound burgers-
Note: To make these burgers on a gas grill, follow directions as written, setting half the burners to high heat in step 4. The Spotted Pig Burger Bun recipe makes double the amount of buns required for this recipe. The burger recipe can be easily doubled, but will require cooking in two batches (unless you have a ginormous grill). If available, replace up to 2 ounces short rib with 2 ounces beef suet for extra richness
Ingredients
10 ounces well-marbled boneless short rib, cut into 1-inch pieces (or 8 ounces short rib and 2 ounces beef suet—see note)
10 ounces beef brisket, preferably second-cut, cut into 1-inch pieces
12 ounces well-marbled chuck roast or chuck stew meat, cut into 1-inch pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces Roquefort cheese, room temperature
4 Spotted Pig Burger Buns
Procedure
1. To Make with Meat Grinder: Place feed shaft, blade, and 3/8ths-inch grinding plate of meat grinder in freezer for at least 30 minutes before grinding. Combine well-chilled meat in large bowl and grind, passing through grinder twice, re-chilling grinder and meat in between grinds if necessary (i.e. if fat starts to smear).
2. To Make with Food Processor Spread meat on sheet tray and place in freezer until firm and just starting to freeze, but still malleable, about 15 minutes. Working in four batches, grind meat in 12-cup food processor, processing with 8-10 one-second pulses, redistributing meat between pulses as necessary. Transfer batches to large bowl and combine.
3. Form meat into four patties, about 4 1/2 inches wide and 1 inch tall, making slight depression in center of each patty.
4. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal (5-6 quarts, about 100 briquettes), and burn until coals are coated in thin layer of gray ash, about 20 minutes. Empty coals and spread evenly over half of grates. Position grill grate on top of grill, cover grill, and heat until grate is hot, about 5 minutes. Scrub grill clean with grill brush if necessary. Season burger patties generously with salt and pepper on all sides. Place on hot side of grill and cook for 1 minute. Flip burgers and cook for 1 minute longer. Flip burgers again, adjusting as necessary to create cross-hatched grill pattern on first side. Cook for 1 minute longer. Flip once more, adjusting as necessary to create cross-hatched grill pattern on second side and cook for 1 minute longer. Transfer burgers to cool side of grill, cover, and cook until desired temperature is achieved, about 1 minute for rare (120°F on an instant read thermometer), or 2 1/2 minutes for medium (140°F on an instant read thermometer). Transfer burgers to cutting board, top each with 2 ounces Roquefort cheese, tent loosely with foil, and allow to rest 5 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, cut buns in half. Toast cut sides on hot side of grill, pressing down gently, until golden-brown grill marks are formed, about 45 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer bun bottoms to cool side of grill to keep warm. Toast top sides of top buns over hot side of grilled, pressing buns into grill grates to form cross-hatched grill pattern about 1 minute total. Place burgers on bun bottoms, top with bun tops, and serve immediately.
About the author: Become a fan of The Food Lab on Facebook for play-by-plays on future kitchen tests and recipe experiments. After graduating from MIT, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt spent many years as a chef, recipe developer, writer, and editor in Boston. He now lives in New York with his wife, where he runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and co-writes the blog GoodEater.org about sustainable food enjoyment.
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, February 26, 2010 at 8:30 AM
Note: Want to learn about the science behind big burgers? Check it out here.
- makes 4 half pound burgers -
Note: This recipe requires the use of a meat thermometer, preferably instant read. I recommend the Thermapen by Thermoworks. It's extremely fast, highly accurate, and durable. At $96, it's not cheap, but it is the most durable model on the market (mine has lasted through five years of heavy abuse so far), and is one of the most valuable kitchen tools available.
Ingredients
2 pounds freshly ground beef
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
4 burger buns, toasted
Toppings and condiments to taste.
Procedure
1. Set oven rack to lower middle position and preheat oven to 200°F. Divide meat into four even 1/2-pound portions. Form into four 4-inch-wide patties, leaving slight depression in center of each. Season liberally with kosher salt and black pepper and place patties on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Place in oven and cook until center of each patty registers 120°F on an instant read thermometer for medium rare (110°F for rare, 135 °F and up for medium well to well), 15 to 30 minutes (time may vary depending on oven temperature cycling). Tent burgers loosely with foil.
2. Add vegetable oil to 12-inch heavy-bottomed stainless steel or cast iron skillet and heat over high heat until smoking. Add burger patties and cook until browned crust develops on first side, 45 seconds to 1 minute 15 seconds. Flip patties. Add cheese if desired. Cook until second side develops dark brown crust, additional 45 seconds to 1 minute 15 seconds. Transfer to buns, top as desired, and serve immediately.
About the author: After graduating from MIT, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt spent many years as a chef, recipe developer, writer, and editor in Boston. He now lives in New York with his wife, where he runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and co-writes the blog GoodEater.org about sustainable food enjoyment.
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, February 12, 2010 at 10:00 AM
Note: Want to read about the development of the Flood Burger? Check it out here.
- makes 4 burgers -
Note: These burgers have a liquid center. Use plenty of napkins.
Ingredients
2 pounds fresh ground, 85% lean ground beef
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
4 slices cheddar cheese (optional)
4 hamburger buns, toasted
Procedure
1. Measure four 2-ounce portions of beef and form into balls. Season generously with salt and pepper. Heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch cast-iron or stainless steel skillet (or carbon steel crepe pan) over high heat for at least 5 minutes. Place balls of beef on skillet. Smash beef balls with back of heavy-duty spatula sprayed with non-stick cooking spray until 1/4-inch thick and 4-5 inches wide. Cook for 1 minute. Using spatula, carefully scrape patties from skillet and flip, taking care to scrape up any browned bits from bottom of pan. Cook for one minute longer, then remove patties to plate and allow to cool for 3 minutes.
2. Using citrus juicer or hands and wire mesh strainer, squeeze patties firmly and catch juice in small bowl. Discard or save meat for another use (it works surprisingly well in long-simmered pasta sauces). Divide sauce into four small soup bowl and place in freezer until firmly frozen, about 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, divide remaining beef into eight 3-ounce balls and form into four-inch-wide patties. Take one patty and use fingers to form 1/4-inch ridge around rim of the patty, creating shallow cup shape. Repeat with three more patties. Remove frozen beef juice disks from bowls and place one disk in each ground beef "cup." Top with remaining beef patties. Carefully crimp and seal edges, then form into even, 1/2- to 3/4-inch patty. Season generously on all sides with salt and pepper.
4. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in heavy-bottomed 12-inch cast-iron or stainless steel skillet (or carbon steel crepe pan) over high heat until lightly smoking. Add patties and cook without moving for 1 1/2 minutes. Flip, using thin metal spatula. Using toothpick, poke hole in center of each burger to allow steam to escape. Continue cooking for 1 minute. Top with cheese and cook for 1 minute longer, or until center registers 130°F on an instant-read thermometer for medium-rare. Place patties on toasted buns, and serve with napkins.
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, January 15, 2010 at 7:30 AM
Note: Want to know why you have to double fry? Check it out here.
- 2 to 4, depending on how hungry or depressed they are -
If you don't have a fry cutter or thick mandoline, take your time cutting the potatoes thinly and uniformly—it will pay off in the results. If your stove is especially weak, fry potatoes in two batches during step 3, keeping the first batch warm in a 200°F oven while frying second batch. Oil can be strained and reused.
Ingredients
4 large russet potatoes (about 2 pounds), peeled, cut into 3/8-inch matchsticks
2 quarts peanut oil
Salt
Procedure
1. Place potatoes in bowl of cold water and rinse, changing water until water runs completely clear. Drain potatoes and dry thoroughly with paper towels or kitchen towels.
2. Using oil thermometer or instant read thermometer, heat oil in large Dutch oven or wok (oil should come no more than half way up the sides) to 350°F. Add potatoes and cook, stirring and turning frequently until pale blond with lightly bubbled surface, about 5 minutes (oil will drop in temperature when you add potatoes—adjust heat to maintain oil between 300 and 325 degrees F). Remove potatoes and drain on paper towel-lined baking sheet. At this point, potatoes can be refrigerated overnight, or frozen and kept in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months.
3. Heat oil to 425°. Add potatoes and cook, stirring and turning frequently, until golden brown, about 2 minutes (oil will drop in temperature when adding fries—adjust heat to maintain temperature between 375 and 400°F). Transfer to paper towel-lined bowl, season with salt, and toss to remove excess oil. Serve immediately.
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, October 16, 2009 at 9:30 AM
Note: Read my breakdown of the burger's components to see how I came up with this recipe.
- makes 4 burgers -
Ingredients
8 ounces beef sirloin, trimmed of gristle, and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 ounces well-marbled beef chuck, trimmed of gristle, and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 ounces well-marbled beef brisket, fat cap intact, trimmed of gristle, and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons butter, melted
4 Martin's Sandwich Rolls
4 tablespoons Shack Sauce (recipe follows)
4 leaves of green-leaf lettuce, clipped
8 center-cut slices ripe plum tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
Kosher salt and fresh-ground black pepper
4 slices yellow American cheese
Procedure
1. Place feed shaft, blade, and 1/4-inch die of meat grinder in freezer until well-chilled. Meanwhile, place meat chunks on rimmed baking sheet, leaving space between each piece and place in freezer for 10 minutes until meat is firm, but not frozen.
2. Combine meat in large bowl and toss to combine. Pass meat through grinder twice. Form into four disks, about 2-inches tall, and 2.5-inches wide. Refrigerate until ready for use.
3. Open buns but do not split hinge. Brush lightly with butter, then place under broiler or in toaster oven until golden brown, about 1 minute. Spread 1 tablespoon Shack Sauce on top half of each bun (for true authenticity, squirt out of squeeze bottle into three lines, three passes on each line). Place 1 leaf lettuce and 2 slices tomato on top half of each bun.
4. Using wadded-up paper towel, rub inside of heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet with vegetable oil, then place over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Season beef pucks on top side with salt and pepper, then place, seasoned side down, in skillet. Using back of heavy, flat spatula, press down on beef pucks firmly to form 4-inch round patties, being careful not to let it stick to bottom of spatula. Season top side with salt and pepper. Cook until crisp brown crust has formed, about 2-minutes.
5. Carefully scrape patties from skillet, and flip. Top each patty with 1 slice American cheese. Cook until cheese is melted, about 1 minute longer. Transfer patties to burger bun bottoms, close sandwiches, and serve.
Shack Sauce
- makes about 3/4 cup sauce -
Ingredients
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon ketchup
1 tablespoon yellow mustard
4 slices kosher dill pickle
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon paprika
pinch cayenne pepper
Ingredients
Combine all ingredients in blender until smooth, scraping down sides of blender with rubber spatula as necessary.