November 24, 2009
Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, November 24, 2009 at 10:45 AM
Even though I've had this Pumpkin Pancetta Soup on my Thanksgiving menu for weeks, and I'm only just getting to it now in the midst of the Great Pumpkin Shortage panic of 2009, I remain undaunted thanks to my tablescape. Oh, that's right, folks, I said tablescape.
Sometime back in October, on one of those gleaming fall Sundays when I was wandering aimlessly through a farmers market, getting suckered into buying every seasonal ingredient just because of the way the sun was bouncing off an autumn leaf or something, I picked up a few sugar pie pumpkins. The quaint little ones with the precious name that turn you into a domestic goddess or god just by setting them on the table as holiday décor.
They've been there ever since, looking adorable, until this morning when I drove my chef's knife right through the core to split them apart and send them to the roaster.
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Posted by Joy Manning, November 17, 2009 at 11:30 AM
[Photograph: Joy Manning]
A lot of people think it's hard to make fresh pasta, but it isn't such a big deal, especially if you aren't attempting to roll out super-thin sheets for ravioli. Most machines come with a spaghetti attachment that makes it easy to have fresh pasta on the fly. If you aren't into it, feel free to use a pound of dry instead. Any shape will do. For an excellent meatless meal, simply swap the chicken stock for veggie, omit the sausage, and sauté the shallots in olive oil.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, November 10, 2009 at 11:30 AM
[Photograph: Tara Mataraza Desmond]
A few weeks ago I gave a friend a verbal whupping for calling a concoction he'd made of vegetables and melted cheese atop a piece of naan a pizza. On any given day, this guy is Mr. Italian American, gushing about Sunday "gravy" and salty meat and cheese sandwiches, so I was flabbergasted by his irreverent pizza misnomer.
"Pizza," though, has already been stretched thin by recipe adaptations. There are saag paneer pizzas, ramen pizzas, Pizzaritos, and French pizzas, to name a few. The intent isn't to oust authentic Italian originals (or Italian-American iterations) but to underscore the infallibility that the culinary basics of a pizza--breadlike bottom and toppings, fired in a hot oven--are genius and almost ubiquitously appreciated. My friend's naan creation is another case and point.
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Posted by Joy Manning, November 3, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
I love beans, but the perfectly cooked legume has long eluded me. Finally, after years of trial and error, I have struck upon a system that produces the creamy, tender beans my heart desires every time. (Don't you hate it when a chef on a reality show has run out of time and calls his or her undercooked beans "al dente"? Nobody likes them that way!)
I am sharing my bean-cooking tips with you here in my recipe for Black Beans and Rice, My Way, so titled because the dish adheres to no special culinary tradition—it's just heavy on the ingredients I like. But whatever your recipe, here are the cornerstones of the bean-cooking method that works for me:
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, October 27, 2009 at 11:15 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
Pork, mushrooms and broth simmer together to make this sauce rich with complex savory flavors. The studs of sweetness from the pears are an unexpected but appetizing partner for the other ingredients. Plus, the pears soften and help thicken the ragu, while keeping their shape and adding texture to the final dish.
Just a quarter-pound of pork forms the foundation of the sauce, creating the fond (better known as "tasty brown bits"), which are deglazed up from the bottom of the pan and into the simmering liquid. Use ground turkey, chicken or veal if you prefer any of them over pork. For a vegetarian version, brown the mushrooms first and proceed with the rest of the recipe.
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Posted by Joy Manning, October 20, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Editor's note: Philly food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by weekly with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
[Photograph: Dan Call]
Everyone loves a plate of pasta, but most pasta preparations are more comforting than nutritious, usually calling for more than the recommended 2 ounce serving of pasta. This recipe is half spaghetti and half hearty kale sliced into spaghetti-like ribbons. A tiny amount of pancetta lends good flavor to the greens, and wine and tomato make for a familiar sauce that complements both the pasta and the kale. It's a soul-satisfying plate of spaghetti that doesn't overload you on carbs or make you feel like you're watching them.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, October 13, 2009 at 12:10 PM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
I can skip the usual preface observing the seasonal bounty, endless variety, and countless purposes of apples, because that propaganda is well-covered by all food publications this time of year already. This recipe, though, suggests grilling apples, which may be a less common approach to cooking our fall favorite. And if nothing else, it certainly makes an argument for extending grilling season way into autumn, because it's definitely more pleasant to stand around a red hot grill when it's 50 degrees out, than when it's 90 degrees, no?
I prefer crisp, sweet and tart apples for this recipe and for munching in general, but feel free to experiment with your own preferred and/or local varieties. The salad is full of texture, easy on the meat, and light without lacking any flavor- particularly with a generous drizzle of the cider maple vinaigrette.
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Posted by Joy Manning, October 6, 2009 at 12:15 PM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
[Photograph from the Flickr photostream of Foodista]
Ingredient epiphanies happen when you suddenly realize how delicious two items are together. Before I made this ragout, I never combined tomatoes and lentils like this. The lentils are hearty and meaty, and the dish's sauciness is great when you feel like a pasta dish but want to eat something substantially more nutritious. This would also make for a nice appetizer spread over a slice of crusty Italian bread.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, September 29, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
I love this kind of recipe. It's simple enough but not at all boring. It's cheap, can be made ahead, reheats beautifully and is suitable for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Plus, though I always enthusiastically welcome a pate brisee crust, rich and flaky with butter, this shredded potato crust is a thick, flavorful base that complements the savory filling and crisps around the edges like your favorite hash browns.
Sausage is an excellent ingredient for adding meaty taste and texture in very small amounts. This recipe calls for a single link, just about a quarter pound of sausage. I opted for mild Italian pork sausage, but substitute your own preference (turkey, chicken or breakfast sausages would work well) to change the flavor profile.
If you make the quiche ahead, let it cook nearly completely, cover it well and refrigerate until ready to eat. Reheat in a 350° F oven for 15-20 minutes, until warmed through. Cover with foil to prevent the crust from burning. Alternatively, cut the quiche into wedges and microwave them to reheat.
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Posted by Joy Manning, September 22, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
[Photograph: PHIGONGGOI on Flickr]
The story of this recipe begins with me standing in front of the open refrigerator, surveying the unused CSA produce that would need to be tossed if not cooked immediately. My husband was suspicious as I piled the vegetables on the counter and told him I was making dinner.
"You know how I feel about green peppers and eggplant," he complained, one eyebrow way up.
I remembered a leftover link of sausage that might gild the vegetables, so to speak, and I grabbed that, too, thinking, "Hey, maybe I'll come up with something that will work for Meat Lite on Serious Eats!" But about an hour into the project, I realized there were some issues with this recipe. Like the fact that it took me two hours to make it. And also, it basically requires a mandoline or slicing-blade attachment for the food processor. Plus, when I was done, there was a scary, scary mountain of dishes to be done.
As I was cooking, I declared it way too much trouble to turn into a recipe anybody would want to have. But then I tasted it and changed my mind. Even my husband, who hates half of these ingredients, declared it a winner. Also: It feeds an army and freezes very well for future meals.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, September 15, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
[Photograph: Robyn Gallagher]
A few months back when Serious Eats was cooking our book, Almost Meatless, there was lots of chatter about favorite nonmeat ingredients that boast meaty textures and flavors enough to make actual meat an afterthought or just completely unnecessary. If you cook an almost-meatless menu or a seriously meatless menu for most meals, these ingredients come in particularly handy.
One of the most mentioned of these nonmeat favorites was eggplant. Eggplant Parmesan, moussaka, stir fries, casseroles--the suggestions went on and on, and plenty of people mentioned that even meat-loving friends and family fell for the meatiness of meatless eggplant dishes.
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Posted by Joy Manning, September 8, 2009 at 12:00 PM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
[Flickr: jlastras]
Strata, or savory bread pudding, is one of the classic clean-out-your fridge dishes. The basic formula can be adapted to whatever you have lying around, so long as the flavors harmonize reasonably well. This version calls for cemitas, which is easy enough to find if you have access to a Mexican grocery or bakery, but if not, any seeded loaf will do. The chorizo here lends a lot of flavor (of course) but could be omitted for a vegetarian version or replaced with an equal amount of ground beef or pork. I told you the recipe is flexible.
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Posted by Joy Manning, September 1, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
[Flickr: woodleywonderworks]
Ever since I quit vegetarianism, I enthusiastically add bacon to everything, even perfectly good meat-free dishes like this one. This dish reminds me of something a vegan friend of mine used to make on a charcoal grill, rendering the meaty-textured eggplant smoky and even more satisfying. I have a gas grill, which imparts no such depth of flavor. I have discovered, though, that a few drops of liquid smoke can help create a reasonable facsimile. (If you grill over charcoal or wood, definitely skip the liquid smoke.)
And what smoky-tasting dish isn't enhanced by a little bacon? I can't think of any. That's how I like this hearty main-course salad. But if you have vegetarians or vegans coming to your Labor Day cook out, omit the bacon and you'll still have substantial meal that even the burger-eaters will want to try, too. The recipe doubles easily. If you are only making it for one or two, scale it down, because leftovers don't keep well. Good thing you'll want to scarf it up immediately.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, August 25, 2009 at 11:30 AM
This time of year in Santa Fe–chile-roasting marks the beginning of the end of summer with smoky aromas of charred skins nearly everywhere around town. Giant gas-fueled chile-roasters are situated in grocery store parking lots, along roadsides, and in the town center, doling out bags of just-charred and peeled chiles to customers. On a recent visit, the Santa Fe Farmers' Market was host to several of these portable on-site roasters, selling chile varieties from producers within about 80 miles of the city. The smell of the roasting peppers floats through the air and sticks with you as an integral ingredient while you browse the bounty of possible accompaniments.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, August 18, 2009 at 11:30 AM
©iStockphoto.com/Marlee90 and MorePixels
In August when the summer harvest is near its peak, there is a flood of euphoria and panic all at once as seasonal bounty hunters scramble to make the most of the fleeting feast. If you've joined the Canvolution and still have a bumper crop on your kitchen counter, try stuffing a little bit of summer into some more of summer with these corn salad–stuffed tomatoes. Portly heirlooms make the perfect vessel, but if you've got Romas or plums out the wazoo, they are as effective.
The corn salad can be cooled or stuffed into the tomatoes warm, straight from the saute pan. These are a nice alternative to another green-salad side dish but are filling as a meal with a loaf of crusty bread.
If you're a vegetarian or family or friends are, cook the bacon ahead and stir it into half of the corn, leaving the other half meat-free. The goat cheese–buttermilk dressing stands on its own.
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Posted by Joy Manning, August 11, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Chorizo is magic, pure culinary pixie dust. Just a bit of the stuff can render the humblest of ingredients magnificent. Here, the paprika and pork fat cook slowly into the potatoes and onions, infusing them with a subtle porky spice that makes the final dish much more than the sum of its parts. If you employ the slicing disk of the food processor to make quick work of the potatoes and onions, this dish requires little effort. And those 40 minutes the chorizo, potatoes, and onions are getting to know each other in the oven? Well, consider it aroma therapy. This dish keeps well in the fridge overnight. Your leftovers will be the envy of the office kitchen.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, August 5, 2009 at 3:30 PM
Joy and I just had the pleasure of the company of 35 bloggers at a potluck to celebrate our book, Almost Meatless, which is also the inspiration for this column. The catch is, the potluck participants convened online. After cooking an assigned recipe from the book, each blogger took a picture, blogged about it and included the original recipe. That means instead of one Meat Lite recipe this week, you get 35!
Stop by the party and get acquainted with the blogger attendees, including cookbook authors, food writers, chefs, vegetarians, meat heads, ex-vegans who love bacon, canning mavens, singers, and many others. Your goodie bag will be chock-full of recipes.
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Posted by Joy Manning, July 28, 2009 at 11:20 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
Summer vegetables. Photograph from thebittenword.com on Flickr
This recipe started as a way to use up surplus veggies from my CSA. The first time I made it, though, I measured nothing and took no notes hoping that it would be edible. I didn't have a lot of faith. I served the stew components over some penne. The dish was so tasty I was miffed at myself for not taking notes. I knew I would make it again for you.
This time, I replaced the penne with some fancy fried polenta, though it would be equally good over soft polenta (just skip the molding, waiting, and slicing steps). I've had this stew over simply grilled slices of eggplant for a starch-less meal (thanks to a suggestion that Maggie of Pithy and Cleaver left on the comments section of my blog). And, of course, it's mighty good with penne. However you serve it, I promise you this stew recipe is a keeper.
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Posted by Tara Mataraza Desmond, July 21, 2009 at 11:00 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
©iStockphoto.com/JLGutierrez
Despite my garden idiocy, I have a patio filled with prolific container herbs and veggies. This is both thrilling and panic-inducing, since as a cook, I hate to see things go to waste. Odds are, anyone who has taken the time to grow food feels the urgent nudge from their gardens to come up with good uses for the bounty. This salad answers the call.
Classic tabouli doesn't include chickpeas or chicken, but the addition of both adds protein enough to make a meal. Serve with either lettuce leaves or soft lavash for scooping. If you have vegetarian diners at your table, cook the bulgur in water and offer the poached chicken on the side for meat eaters to stir in if they choose.
Black thumbs are welcome to try their hands at this, too, thanks to summer farmers' markets, gardening friends or the good ol' grocery store.
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Posted by Joy Manning, July 14, 2009 at 11:15 AM
Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless.
When tomatoes start appearing at my farmers' market, it's one of the happiest food moments of the year. These varieties are typically so well-balanced that my general rule for preparing them is to keep things as simple as possible. Here, a peeled tomato becomes the base for a light, bright-tasting pasta sauce with few other embellishments.
I used penne, but you could substitute your favorite pasta shape or even press the sauce into service as a flavorful topping for grilled chicken or slices or grilled bread.
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